My before and after results of using DeoxIt Gold on an SS GGTS

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Stinky Uncle Ed

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DSC_0004.jpg


Credit for my methodology goes out to LuxLuthor at CandlePowerForums, namely this thread which taught me my technique: REALLY Simple Guide To Figuring Out Voltage In Maglite

It will explain the method of calculating resistance based on measuring voltage drop under current load better than I can, so if you wish to read it, it's short and very informative with much carryover into ecigs.

For this test, I will be using an SS GGTS (A couple months old and gently used) with an AW 2900mAh 18650 protected Li-ion battery and debridged standard (2.3ohm) 510 atomizer. Measurements will be taken by an Electro-Tek digital multimeter purchased from Wallmart several years ago.

To begin, I cleaned the electrical contact points of the SS GGTS with 91% isopropyl alcohol. I first cleaned the fuse post inside and outside and fuse spring ends. I then cleaned the positive and negative battery posts as well as battery terminals. Finally, I disassembled and cleaned the switch assembly and also the threads of the GGTS engraved body tube that the switch assembly screws into. I refrained from cleaning the contact point between atomizer and connector assembly as I will not be placing anything that is not food grade (Namely the DeoxIt Gold later on) around the atomizer draw holes.

Next I measured the voltage of my battery at rest, the current draw of the SS GGTS, and the voltage to the atty under load using my digital multimeter. The following pictures help show how I achieved these measurements.

DSC_0001.jpg

I tested resting battery voltage like this (pretty tricky to take this picture by myself).

DSC_0002.jpg

This is how I measured the current draw. I removed the GGTS brass telescope and completed the circuit with the leads of my digital multimeter. A bit tricky to keep pressure on the battery and multimeter leads, but doable. I pressed the GGTS button for maybe two seconds and recorded the highest number, which rapidly started to decrease as the atty heated up.

DSC_0003.jpg

I tested voltage to the atomizer under load like this. This was tough to execute. I pinned the negative lead of my DDM between the draw control ring and top cap. For the positive lead of the multimeter, I put it touching the side of the atomizer coil and pinned next to the ceramic cup. I pressed the GGTS button for a couple seconds and recorded the highest voltage the atty peaked at.

The following are the baseline measurements of my SS GGTS after cleaning electrical contact points with alcohol:

Resting battery voltage: 4.09 Volts
SS GGTS current draw: 1.28 Amps
Atty voltage under load: 2.99 Volts

Next I cleaned all the electrical contact points with the DeoxIt cleaning spray and then applied the DeoxIt Gold conditioning and sealant spray. I only applied the DeoxIt gold to the same areas I had just cleaned with alchohol so as to maintain the uniformity of the test.

The following are the measurements of my SS GGTS after application of DeoxIt Gold:

Resting battery voltage: 4.08 Volts
SS GGTS current draw: 1.32 Amps
Atty voltage under load: 3.38 Volts

Based on these numbers, there was a voltage drop of 1.10 volts from the battery to the atomizer due to internal resistance before DeoxIt Gold, and 0.70 volts after the application of DeoxIt Gold, so as a result voltage to the atty had improved by 0.40 volts.

Based on voltage drop and current draw, there was an internal resistance of 0.859 ohms before DeoxIt Gold, and 0.530 ohms after it, so internal resistance was reduced by 0.329 ohms

Based on atty voltage under load and current draw, the atomizer was drawing 3.83 watts before the Deoxit Gold, and 4.46 watts after it, so wattage had increased by 0.63 watts

I would say these are pretty positive results. Results may vary of course :p
 

Major

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Thanks for all your hard work to bring this to us Stinky! That is a definitive differential. As big a pain in the .... as it would be, if you have the time, can you run the tests after whatever number of hours usage you feel would be a good benchmark?

The fresh results are impressive and I'm just naturally curious as to how long the Deoxit will maintain that under load volatge increase. If it's too big a pain, I understand totally. It's just great stuff to have on hand here for reference and yet another reason to love the folks here in the GG forum! :thumb:
 

Stinky Uncle Ed

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Thanks for the positive replies guys.

Major, I would be curious to also know how well the DeoxIt Gold will hold up to use. It seems that my switches normally need a cleaning every two to three weeks to remove a black dust or smudge like matter that builds up inside them. I think I should run one for a couple months at least, and then give it (and the whole GGTS) a test followed by cleanup and reapplication of Deoxit Gold to the same areas to see if performance had indeed started to degrade.
 

imeothanasis

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Uncle, I see my good friend. You did a very nice experiment here. I have to say some things about connections on GGTS. The center post of GGTS, the axis that button touch and the base of the button are shined as the outside of GGTS and they are nickel plated, so their contactivity is the best. We cant have better contactivity than this, its just impossible. The main reasons you had those results were the springs on GGTS. The battery spring has not much to do wit it because it gets streched too much from the telescope so it makes a very very good contact. Deoxit maybe affected the contactivity but too little to my opinion. But the spring inside the button and inside the fuse have the more losses so Deoxit did an exellent job there. Fuse has 0,1 ohms resistance and deoxit reduce this resistance for sure. As for the button's spring, maybe a harder one will do the job a little better.

Of couse springs is the weak point to all mods. All other mods have issues with battery spring contactivity too because this spring gets loosy or doesnt make a proper contact all the time, thats why flashlights doesnt fire sometimes. At least GGTS has not a problerm like this.

So the thing is that we need better springs. Maybe nickel or gold plated springs is the solution to this. I made the first brass springs on e-cigs but now I always make steel springs to make them last for ever. But I have to think to make some nickel plated or gold ones.
 

Rick.45cal

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Uncle, I see my good friend. You did a very nice experiment here. I have to say some things about connections on GGTS. The center post of GGTS, the axis that button touch and the base of the button are shined as the outside of GGTS and they are nickel plated, so their contactivity is the best. We cant have better contactivity than this, its just impossible. The main reasons you had those results were the springs on GGTS. The battery spring has not much to do wit it because it gets streched too much from the telescope so it makes a very very good contact. Deoxit maybe affected the contactivity but too little to my opinion. But the spring inside the button and inside the fuse have the more losses so Deoxit did an exellent job there. Fuse has 0,1 ohms resistance and deoxit reduce this resistance for sure. As for the button's spring, maybe a harder one will do the job a little better.

Of couse springs is the weak point to all mods. All other mods have issues with battery spring contactivity too because this spring gets loosy or doesnt make a proper contact all the time, thats why flashlights doesnt fire sometimes. At least GGTS has not a problerm like this.

So the thing is that we need better springs. Maybe nickel or gold plated springs is the solution to this. I made the first brass springs on e-cigs but now I always make steel springs to make them last for ever. But I have to think to make some nickel plated or gold ones.


My vote is for some gold plated steel ones :) I might actually use my battery spring if it was gold, I definitely would love to have a gold plated button spring... even more than magnets.Such a small thing can get me all excited. :)

Hmmm... Paladium plated GGTS... (Only in my wildest dreams... bet that would look unique) :lol:
 

Stinky Uncle Ed

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Thanks Imeo. Gold plated springs would be excellent. They are proven for flashlight mods, I know that. Or maybe a copper base alloy spring?

It should be noted that my results on internal resistance, which revealed 0.859 ohms before and 0.530 ohms after deoxit gold include the internal resistance of the battery and fuse spring as part of the reason of voltage drop to the atty. A quick search on google showed the following resistances as a guideline for a protected 18650 li-ion. My battery was a couple months old with daily charges.

75-150 mOhm - Excellent
150-250 mOhm - Good
250-350 mOhm - Marginal
350-Up mOhm - Bad

Factor in the internal resistance of the battery, and the 100 mOhm by design of the fuse spring and there is not much room for improvement for my after results.
 

imeothanasis

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Yes, we need some springs Uncle. As I already said I was the one that made first those brass springs on GG mods but I rejected them after the steel ones. But maybe they were a great idea that I have to bring back. The best solution is brass springs with nickel or chromium on them. I will check this with my plate-man
 
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