Could you ground to the mod's body next to the cap or is it nonconductive?
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Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk
My DNA20 box mod project build
- Thread starter asidrave
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Here is how I did it:
With regards to soldering those SS Chi You flat top caps, here is what I tried today. This is my first attempt so it is sloppy, but it worked great.
Everything I read about soldering to SS seemed to center on getting the SS nice and clean by using an acid based flux to remove any surface oxide. I used: Airgas - HARSCLF4 - Harris Welco® Stay-Clean® Liquid Soldering Flux, 4 Ounce Flip Top Bottle and regular old Kester brand lead-free solder.
I removed the pin and plastic insulator then cleaned the surface with the flux. I could have used wire instead of the fork terminal, but I was playing around with terminals because of some other ideas I have. I heated the SS until I could get solder to flow and lightly tinned the surface area I was working in. I then set the fork terminal (or wire) on the SS and applied the solder iron to the TOP of the wire/terminal and heated it until solder would flow by just touching it. I had to arrange my work so everything would stay in place once I let go. The factor being that the mass of SS took a while to cool and I didnt want anything to move while it was cooling.
While the pin was still out of the base I took the bottom part of telescopic pin completely out and heated the top half of the pin until solder would flow inside the screw hole that was left vacant. I then simply stuck a stripped and tinned piece of wire into the solder blob. The pin held heat for a while which kept the solder molten so I had to make sure wire wouldnt move when I let go.
Cleaned off the flux with alcohol and screwed it all back together:
Couldn't a terminal be attached to the bottom of the cap body by means of a tapped hole and a small machine screw (2-56 or 4-40), instead of soldering? From what I can see in the pics, it looks like there's enough meat there for maybe a .25" long fastener, maybe ground shorter if necessary...
I tried drilling the cap. No good with a regular drill bit. Maybe if I had a titanium one. I ended up just wedging the wire between a gap I had on the topcap and case, a bit of solder and using the Arctic silver epoxy to hold it in place
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High speed steel drill bits, some oil, and the right speed and pressure and stainless drills fairly well. Cobalt drill bits make it easier, but won't take side loads the HSS. Titanium drill bits are HSS coated with titanium oxide, however once the coating is gone from use or sharpening they are basically just HSS drill bits.
I would recommend cobalt for drilling stainless.
I would recommend cobalt for drilling stainless.
++UPDATE++
sorry i have not had time to do a video and probably won't for a few more days. Its working great and have had no issues with it. I have tried it with my Russian, Ithaka, Trident and Helios so far with coils from .8 to 1.2oHms. Im using 2 older AW IMR 18650 1600mAh batteries and have been getting over a day with them. I dont know how long it takes to charge because i charge it at night and by morning its charged.
Only thing is see is that i dont know when the batteries are fully charged besides the icon on the display showing a full battery. The red LED on the charging board stays red all the time. Batteries are not warm so idk. Also, i would have thought there would be some sort of charging animation on the screen.
sorry i have not had time to do a video and probably won't for a few more days. Its working great and have had no issues with it. I have tried it with my Russian, Ithaka, Trident and Helios so far with coils from .8 to 1.2oHms. Im using 2 older AW IMR 18650 1600mAh batteries and have been getting over a day with them. I dont know how long it takes to charge because i charge it at night and by morning its charged.
Only thing is see is that i dont know when the batteries are fully charged besides the icon on the display showing a full battery. The red LED on the charging board stays red all the time. Batteries are not warm so idk. Also, i would have thought there would be some sort of charging animation on the screen.
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Sounds like your charger is bad or something. Yes it would be nice if the DNA had an on screen indication for charge, but the DNA is offered as a modders board and not a single solution total integration product. The leds on the charger are supposed to be your charge indication.
Sounds like your charger is bad or something. Yes it would be nice if the DNA had an on screen indication for charge, but the DNA is offered as a modders board and not a single solution total integration product. The leds on the charger are supposed to be your charge indication.
Hmmm......I wonder if its consistantly charging the batteries even when they are full? I will have to contact evolv about the issue.
Yes, and i may still add one. I will be looking for one that is over 4000mAh
No...not at all. The ribbon is flexible enough to where i have it...no more
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