My experience starting out now

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William Hartman

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Nov 29, 2015
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Hey y'all, advice would be appreciated if anyone knows a good book on this because I learn new things all the time just starting out.

Bought a MVP 20W, version 1 i believe. Aspire BVC mini tank.
Setting 1 = 10.0 watt
Setting 2 = 4.0 volts

I would like to stick with this same unit because it is simple, It can be turned off but I just leave it on and don't know why you would turn it off (or count the amount of puffs you have taken). I guess just so it doesn't accidental discharge. I charge it before it gets to the yellow middle battery power indicator light constantly. From what I'm told the problems come from battery underpower, not overcharging. The most comical thing so far is the damn thing kept putting out nasty gross burnt taste. I discovered when you put it in a pocket, not in a clean case, the whole thing gets lint all in it and it gets all messed up...

I want to put the Aspire 2 Sub ohm tank onto it. The safest resistance available from them is 1.0 ohm.
I think this higher resistance is easier on everything.
The resistance of this mini Aspire tank is 1.9 according to the MVP's screen and it has no air inlet at the mouthpeice. I'm sure this older model wasn't designed with the new tank in mind.
I have had such a great experience with this I could finally quit smoking quickly. Thank you for letting me know about rotating the batteries (in pairs). I do not know when to recycle a battery, like if it no longer holds the charge for half the original time or if it stops altogether.
 

djsvapour

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Oct 2, 2012
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The short answer I'm afraid is no.

You are very limited if you stick with the MVP version 2.

You either need a newer (higher power) mod, or to stick with gentle low-vapour tanks.

I sold my MVP within days of buying Nautilus tanks (summer 2014) and was sad about that, but even at full power it wasn't enough for me.

Sorry to send bad news.
 
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suprtrkr

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+1 to @djsvapour I'm afraid 20 watts is going to be a bit light for subohming. You'll probably want a minimum of 30 watts, and 40-50 gives you more headroom even if you don't use it all the time. Innokin (who makes your mod) also makes the MVP 3.0 in two versions, both of which are more powerful. They also make the Cool Fire 4, a nice little 40 watt model with a different form factor. The CF4 can be bought bundled with Innokin's iSub tank. That's a very nice little unit also, but it only has .5 ohm coils available. If you went that way you could try the iSub for a price not much greater than just buying an MVP replacement and then getting an Atlantis later if it doesn't suit. There are many other options-- a bewildering variety-- but Innokin is a good company with a solid reputation, so I stayed in their product line.
 

IMFire3605

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May 3, 2013
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So at full power it is not enough with a Sub Ohm tank. I am not sure if it wasn't enough vapor from the unit, or it put strain on the battery. I found a 8 dollar juice tank on the web that was twice the width of the skinny Aspire tank I have that was the perfect amount of vapor.

If you like the MVP 20watt, like @djsvapour posted above, the previous version didn't have enough power for the Nautilus line, but the 20watt does compared to the basic 2.0 MVP's max of 11watts. 20watts is just barely enough power to push a Kanger Subtank 0.5ohm coil, and the MVP 2.0 and 20watt lowest coil they will fire is 0.5ohms, the Aspire Atlantis and Triton tanks you'll need the range of 30watts (MVP 3.0 model max) to 60watts (MVP 3.0 Pro version max watts). Moving to a more modern unit as your primary device, setting the 20watt into backup duty will help in the long run.
 
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