Need advice
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Eleaf iSmoka iStick 50W 4400mAh 0.2ohm Mod
Kangertech SUBOX Subtank Mini - Black
You can pick your colors for the istick, Subtank comes in black white and stainless.
Kangertech SUBOX Subtank Mini - Black
You can pick your colors for the istick, Subtank comes in black white and stainless.
Thanks for the prompt reply. I have a follow up question, I have read up on some of the more popular (allegedly) mods which are the Kanger Subox mini, the joyetech eVic VT or the eVic VTC mini. Are any of the aforementioned better than the Eleaf iSmoka or if they are similar, would you still recommend it or any of those that I previously mentioned. I look forward to your input. Cheers!
Kanger Subox Mini is a good setup (from what I have read) but requires you to provide a battery for it. Joyetech eVic VT is also a good one (again I don't own it but have read about them on here) with a built in battery. The eVic mini I have only just saw pictures recently, not sure if it's even out yet, but same as the Subox requires you to provide a battery. There is no "best" mod or tanks. Everyone likes what they use for their own reasons. There's fanboys of different manufacturers just like IOS vs Android/Xbox vs PS. The iStick 50w is not by far the best mod out there, but for the price it's a great device with very good battery life. Start there and once you get into vaping and want more power and different tanks then shell out the $$$ for the top of the line gear. I have some expensive devices but when I go out I take my iStick 50w with me because it works and it's cheap so if I drop and break it or lose the thing, I'm not out $150 on my 200w box mod. But any of those choices are good devices, take your pick. I think besides the iStick + Subtank I would go for the Subox Mini kit with a good battery (or 2). Just my opinion on the matter. Good luck and let me know if you have any other questions.
Thanks for the great iOS vs Android/Xbox vs PS analogy, it totally helped with understanding the realities of the vaping scene. Personally, I feel like I would like to get a mid or mid-high range device as opposed to a starter device. This is because I will be limited to vaping indoors due to the laws of my country. Hence, I don't foresee getting more than one device unless the one I own goes bust. And to use your analogy, what would you consider to be the "Apple" of vaping. I completely understand that it would be entirely your opinion and not a general consensus but I'd like the input of someone who is experienced. Also, I mentioned the "Apple" of vaping cos form, size and weight play a crucial part in purchasing such a device.
Well if I didn't already have a 200w box mod and I was upgrading from my iStick 50w to something with more power and room to grow... I would recommend something that requires removable batteries. The 2 brands that I would recommend Pioneer4you - IPVs or Sigelei. I would recommend looking up some YouTube reviews (GrimmGreen/PBusardo/Suck My Mod/The Vapor Chronicles/Vapin' Heathen/Ruby Roo) of their devices and search here, because again Apple to Android - I don't know which is better. I made my choice based on reviews and what was important to me as a user, but many on these forums will flame my decision just as users of my device flame them. Some require a single 18650 sized battery, but I prefer 2 battery mods so it lasts me all day long without swapping batteries or needing to recharge. But if you want one good device and not have to buy more anytime soon, go for a 2 battery mod and a good charger - I use the EFest Luc V4 because I have lots of batteries at this point. Spend some time reading up on these before clicking buy now.
I am a mouth-lung inhaler and I am based in SG. I have read the posts and have decided that my best bet is to head across the cway to get my stuff. I will be heading to Malacca over the coming weekend.
Did a google search for you: Vape Shops Malacca Malaysia - Google Search
There may be many more shops that do not show up on this search. Be very careful when crossing back into SG. I've heard that customs is on "high alert".
Many of the subΩ tanks are designed for direct-2-lung hits. The one subΩ tank that MAY work for you is the Kanger Subtank Mini. One benefit of this tank is that it comes with a RBA base should you wish to build your own coils vs buying replacement coils.
A good tank for M2L is the Aspire Triton (using the 1.8Ω coil). The 0.5Ω coil is designed for direct lung hits. The triton is a top fill tank. There is a RBA Kit available for this tank but it does not come with the tank. It has to be purchased separately.
The Aspire Nautilus/Mini Nautilus is also designed for M2L. Not RBA base or kit available for this tank.
Check out some reviews on YouTube. PBusardo, GrimmGreen, The Vapor Chronicles, Richard NG (he's from Malaysia).
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Thank you for all the information. I will be spending time watching the video reviews. I think my choices are gonna be between the iPV 3 Li or the iPV 4.
@RH7 not a problem, happy to help. PM if you have any more questions, good luck!
Hey Susan, thanks for the info! I am now confused about the the tanks as I never knew there were so many variations for different types on inhaling styles. In fact I never even knew there was such a thing a mouth-lung & direct-lung inhalation. I have only vaped on a friend's Kanger Suboxmini and that worked fine for me. However I understand that is just a starter device and as I mentioned in an earlier post, I would prefer something in the mid to mid-high end as I don't plan on buying/upgrading unless the device is spoilt. With regards to the customs issue, I will be heading in with my colleagues and directors and if they are on high alert, it may not be feasible to bring it in that way. Any idea if online purchases are a better option?
Using the 0.5Ω coil (at high wattage) requires a lot of air to cool the vapor down (wide open airflow) and to lung hit (versus M2L).
The Subox Mini is not really considered a "starter kit" (in a traditional sense) even though many people do start with it. It is considered a "starter kit" in that it is a safe way to get into subΩ vaping (and rebuilding via the included RBA base) safely, as long as you use the right battery for this mod (20A CDR* like the Samsung 25r). *CDR = continuous discharge rating.
Battery Basics for Mods - The Ultimate Battery Guide
SubΩ vaping (with clearomizers) is relatively new. The first subΩ clearomizer came out late last year. Before that, the only way to subΩ was using a rebuildable. And if you were not up to speed on battery safety, Ohm's law, amp draw you could get yourself in a lot of trouble regarding safety (especially when using a mech mod).
Clearomizer = Tank that uses stock/factory coils.
Rebuildable = Tank (RTA) or dripper (RDA) that the user has to wind/install/wick their own coils.
Review here => SUBOX Mini Kit By Kangertech
From what I read that option is even worse. All items are put through scanners and most vape hardware is detected/confiscated. For that reason many large (but not all) online retailers (like Fastech) will not even ship to SG.
If you start posting over in the SG Vapers forum, get to know a few people, you will most likely gain trust and then information can start flowing via PM's/Conversations.
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I have an MVP3.0 with a Velocity Clone RDA on top. I haven't had an issues yet. I find dippers are a little better flavor wise. For a 60W device, I get some pretty alright clouds.
My opinion, since you're a light smoker DEFINITELY grab a regulated mod, and purchase a sub tank (I suggest one with a buildable deck), start off buying coils with more surface area, smaller, tighter wraps and go from there.. I only mech. So I can't be of assistance as to what exactly.. Just what to get in general.
I eventually got an IPV D2 with an Aspire Triton tank. However, I find that each time I vape, the inhalation sound from the tank is unusually loud and there seems to be some leakage of the juice. Also, the mod and tank gets rather hot after 7-8 consecutive vapes. It was set at around 25 watts with 0mg juice. Any thoughts?
I'm not positive about the heat, other than pulsing the amps too frequently, causing the coils to stay hot when that instant 25 watts hits again. The loud sound in my experience with tanks (almost sounds like an open dripper), is either the glass has a crack (if it's not leaking bad or visible, take the basic pieces of it apart and check to see if there's one [crack] by the seals.. OR, your atomizer/coil cartridge isn't properly on or simply got juice where the sub doesn't shine (punny huh)
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