Need help picking a battery.

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Drevj12

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Oct 10, 2017
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So I'm planning to get a mech mod for my all day vape and I have a basic understanding of ohms law. But I still want to double check and verify my thought process. I'm hoping to vape in the .25 - .35 resistance range and maybe very occasionally go down to .12 -.15 but not for more than a few hits. Any recommendations for batteries that'll give me decent power through all day use? If it matters, I have a tendency to take somewhat long draws. Probably the 2.5 second to 4 second range.

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bombastinator

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An all day mech in the .3 watt range is going to require a double or triple battery mod. At least it would for me anyway. People who can get a whole day out of a single battery mod are generally mtl vapers which you do not seem to be.

Do you have such a mod? Most mech mods are single battery. A noisy cricket might do it for one though.
 

Rossum

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An all day mech in the .3 watt range is going to require a double or triple battery mod. At least it would for me anyway. People who can get a whole day out of a single battery mod are generally mtl vapers which you do not seem to be.
Concur. I can get through most of a day on a single battery with a 0.75 ohm single coil, but not with duals at 0.5. Yes, MTL.
 

Winblows

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I read here, that the energy usage is very different in this thread.
I'm an ex smoker and I used to smoke approx. 15 smokes a day.
To keep my lungs and mind "happy", I vape what is equivalent to that, I suppose.
Well, I usually vape on single battery 18650 mods (mostly controlled) and I get an all day vape (or even more than that) out of a single battery, eg. a Sony VTC5 or LG HG2.
For mechs, I'll recommend the LG HB6. High AMP is very important for mech mods.
I build micro coils 0.3-0.4mm (28-26ga) between 0.2 and 0.5ohm and I'm able to make clouds like those I've seen on some contests at YouTube.
If you are using any kind of thick heating wire, then yes, you will need a bunch of batteries ...
You have to know your mods and coils combined with different batteries by measuring the fall of voltage to avoid "stressing" the batteries by drawing below 2.5V.
 
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DaveP

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Just my opinion, but mech mod value lies in the retro tech department. These days you are better off with a good variable voltage/wattage/TC mod that can extend battery life by maintaining the output as the battery winds down toward cutoff.

Mech mods are like straight shift transmissions. Automatics these days can run rings around manual shifters. With a mech mod you are stuck with the output dictated by voltage and coil resistance. IMO, VW and TC mods give you total control over vape quality and maintain it throughout the charge life of the battery.
 

Baditude

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So I'm planning to get a mech mod for my all day vape... I'm hoping to vape in the .25 - .35 resistance range and maybe very occasionally go down to .12 -.15 but not for more than a few hits. Any recommendations for batteries that'll give me decent power through all day use?
error. please go to next post. :oops:
 
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Baditude

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I concur with the above comments. :thumb:

Not to be disrespectful, but I believe you should re-examine just why you want to use a mech mod as your all day vape and be able to use a single battery at super sub-ohm resistance. It is my thought that a regulated mod would serve you much better.

A high quality 20 amp (continuous discharge rate) 3000 mAh battery will be able to safely fire a 0.3 ohm coil in a mechanical. Any lower resistance will be over the amp limit. The CDR isn't a suggestion. It's the safe operating limit of the cell. A high quality 30 amp battery will be able to safely fire a 0.2 ohm coil, but will only have 1500 mAh so that means battery life is going to suck.

Basic rule of thumb at the moment, to get CDR amps you have to sacrifice Mah and run time, to get Mah and run time you have to sacrifice amps and CDR. You won't find a battery which has both the highest amp rating and highest mAh capacity; that's the way it works with batteries.

1.0 ohm = 4.2 amp draw
0.9 ohm = 4.6 amp draw
0.8 ohm = 5.2 amp draw
0.7 ohms = 6 amp draw
0.6 ohms = 7 amp draw
0.5 ohms = 8.4 amp draw
0.4 ohms = 10.5 amp draw
0.3 ohms = 14.0 amp draw
0.2 ohms = 21.0 amp draw
0.1 ohms = 42.0 amp draw
0.15 ohms = 28 amp draw
0.0 ohms = dead short = battery goes into thermal runaway


With a regulated mod, you'll be able to use about any resistance you desire and also have the chips's protection circuitry available which helps protect against hard shorts that you would not have with a mechanical mod.




Explain it to the Dumb Noob: Ohm's Law Calculations for a Mechanical Mod

Battery Basics for Mods: The Definative Battery Guide for Vaping

A Beginner's Guide to Your First Mechanical Mod
 
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Barkuti

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meets your requirements (as low as 120mΩ coil) and gives you runtime.
Some power output estimations:
For a 0.12Ω coil, brand new cell average internal resistance under 15mΩ, ≈10mΩ contact resistance losses and 4.1V resting voltage, I = V / R -> I = 4.1V / (0.12 + 0.015 + 0.01)Ω = ≈28.276A, Pcoil = I²Rcoil = ≈95.943W.
With the usage of a 0.25Ω coil, brand new cell average internal resistance under 15mΩ, ≈10mΩ contact resistance losses and 3.6V resting voltage (about half full cell), I = V / R -> I = 3.6 / (0.25 + 0.015 + 0.01) = ≈13.09A, Pcoil = I²Rcoil = ≈42.843W.


Hope this helps. :)
 

Baditude

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Barkuti

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Baditude,

I suggested the iJoy 26650, though the 20700 is also valid in this case.

The actual load in any given electrical circuit is given by the sum of the total resistances/impedances of all its components. In a regulated device things are much easier for the user (it's regulated, after all), but in a mech all component resistances matter because the main load resistance (coil) is quite low and because of this any stray resistance will ruin the vaping experience (like a bad, high resistance switch).
In my honest opinion, using purely mechanical switches and no protection is an unnecessary risk. There are inexpensive high current 1S battery management circuits for very cheap nowadays, and they can be used in parallel. By connecting the battery tray cathode to the B- input in the BMS and the P- output to the coil (along with a direct connection to the battery tray anode), you have an easy way to switch the mod on and off easily and safely: you just need a tiny pushbutton to route power from the battery anode to the B+ input, because as that is done the MOSFETs close the circuit and current flows. Further advantages are overcurrent and low voltage protection (under-discharge).

HTB1fYJVSpXXXXXTaXXXq6xXFXXXL.jpg

DW01A protection chip plus 6x 8205s, ≈5mΩ equivalent series resistance. This is good for up to ≈30A peak current (typical overcurrent detection voltage is 150mV) and 15A continuous. With two of these paralleled in a mech mod one could vape at 30A continuous with better safety and reliability than a mech switch, with waay longer (MOSFET) switch lifespan. 60A would be the overcurrent limit.
Oh well, I know most of you won't even nearly get into this, but you could make a couple a nice suggestions to mech mod manufacturers. :)

Take care. :toast:
P.S.: a 30A battery is more than adequate for Drevj12.
P.S.2: at times I wonder wether people just skip my posts because of overwhelming information wtf phenomena. ;)
 
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Drevj12

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Oct 10, 2017
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Baditude,

I suggested the iJoy 26650, though the 20700 is also valid in this case.

The actual load in any given electrical circuit is given by the sum of the total resistances/impedances of all its components. In a regulated device things are much easier for the user (it's regulated, after all), but in a mech all component resistances matter because the main load resistance (coil) is quite low and because of this any stray resistance will ruin the vaping experience (like a bad, high resistance switch).
In my honest opinion, using purely mechanical switches and no protection is an unnecessary risk. There are inexpensive high current 1S battery management circuits for very cheap nowadays, and they can be used in parallel. By connecting the battery tray cathode to the B- input in the BMS and the P- output to the coil (along with a direct connection to the battery tray anode), you have an easy way to switch the mod on and off easily and safely: you just need a tiny pushbutton to route power from the battery anode to the B+ input, because as that is done the MOSFETs close the circuit and current flows. Further advantages are overcurrent and low voltage protection (under-discharge).

HTB1fYJVSpXXXXXTaXXXq6xXFXXXL.jpg

DW01A protection chip plus 6x 8205s, ≈5mΩ equivalent series resistance. This is good for up to ≈30A peak current (typical overcurrent detection voltage is 150mV) and 15A continuous. With two of these paralleled in a mech mod one could vape at 30A continuous with better safety and reliability than a mech switch, with waay longer (MOSFET) switch lifespan. 60A would be the overcurrent limit.
Oh well, I know most of you won't even nearly get into this, but you could make a couple a nice suggestions to mech mod manufacturers. :)

Take care. :toast:
P.S.: a 30A battery is more than adequate for Drevj12.
P.S.2: at times I wonder wether people just skip my posts because of overwhelming information ... phenomena. ;)
I will say quite honestly that I read the whole thing. Just didn't quite get some of it. I do appreciate the post and I'll probably come back to it to learn some things.

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Drevj12

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Oct 10, 2017
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Simple questions require simple answers. Yes OP probably skipped everything you posted assuming he's even looking here anymore.
I've been absent the last few days. But I've read over all the posts and I appreciate the advice. I decided to keep the mech as a part time one for the tricks I mentioned. And I just ordered a Smok V8 stick the other day.

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VapieDan

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I've been absent the last few days. But I've read over all the posts and I appreciate the advice. I decided to keep the mech as a part time one for the tricks I mentioned. And I just ordered a Smok V8 stick the other day.

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Smart move
 
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