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Got you. This would add a level of safety and get you the needed added length:
Vape Safe II HD - REUSEABLE 2 Cents For Safety Mod Safety Fuse [gv-NEWVapeSafe2-Reuseable] - $14.95 : GotVapes.com, E-cigarette Supplies - Atomizers Cartomizers Mods Juice and more
That thing "trips at 6 amps"
I'm definitely pushing more than 6, i don't have any shorts or anything, but I like to stay pretty low on the ohms lol
Im just gunna buy an extended post
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Ok, I got the delrin flush now!
The things I do not like about this mod is the button and lock ring, but mostly the button. The button feels like a flimsy cheap pos imo. It works no matter where I put pressure though which is good. It will be just fine for work.
I have also noticed that it has a much tighter draw now that I pushed the delrin in flush.
Thanks for all the help
The things I do not like about this mod is the button and lock ring, but mostly the button. The button feels like a flimsy cheap pos imo. It works no matter where I put pressure though which is good. It will be just fine for work.
I have also noticed that it has a much tighter draw now that I pushed the delrin in flush.
Thanks for all the help
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If you look how the air works with the top cap, you may have actually pushed it up too far and blocked the airflow holes. You should be able to look inside the 510 connection and see that the holes are or are not blocked. You can also pull the airflow adjustment ring straight up off the top and check the airflow holes from the outside too. You may need to pull it back down a little if you use atomizers that need the airflow from the mod.
If the holes aren't blocked by the delrin, make sure the 2 dots are lined up with the 2 holes to get maximum airflow. You can twist it a little each way to tighten it up if it's to loose for your liking.
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Delron is a thick flat disc. I don't think there is any way it can be pressed to the point of blocking the Holes. However with it sitting low, there was a massive air chamber above.
Depending on what design device you have on top, some adjustments may be needed. My X8 Carto tank draws a bit tight when flush. I raise it less than 1/2mm off the deck and it Vapes like a champ.
Delron is a thick flat disc. I don't think there is any way it can be pressed to the point of blocking the Holes. However with it sitting low, there was a massive air chamber above.
Depending on what design device you have on top, some adjustments may be needed. My X8 Carto tank draws a bit tight when flush. I raise it less than 1/2mm off the deck and it Vapes like a champ.
Looking in the top of my Nemmy clone, it looks like it could be possible to block the air holes if the delrin disc was pushed up too high. In the case of his mod I was thinking that whoever put it together crammed a delrin insulator into the head that was possibly too long to start with, in which case flushing out the bottom would possibly cause the air holes to become blocked or partially blocked. They also may not know that the ring on top of the mod spins to open and close the airflow to the topper. I try not to assume too much when trying to help someone figure something out. You could very well be correct. I was just trying to give him/her something to check that would cause the draw to tighten up.
I think I've seen you post that you use an additional airflow control ring sometimes. If that was you could you post a link to the one you use? It could be another possible solution for them to consider.
I will take a look, but I thought I checked and the delrin stopped right at the holes, leaving them open.
Also I will not be doing much with my Chemesis till I find some parts. It must have saw that I mentioned its crappy button. I have no Idea how this is even possible but this is what happened with the switch.
Everything was fine all day today and as we were packing up from work in the dark; I noticed my pocket felt like it was on fire burning a hole in my leg
So I quickly dig in my pocket with everything in there and pull the Chemmy out. I'm looking at it trying to figure out what is going on and the button is missing. It was still burning up. I finally got the top half pulled apart so I could pull the battery. Mind you It was locked. Somehow the entire button assembly blew apart and the contact must have stuck against the battery making fire continually
I still need to look, but I know that I lost that black insulator piece. I will post pics and try to see what I will need tomorrow as today was a very long day. I think I put in around 18hrs today.
I just cannot believe that the button came apart; how is this even possible sitting in my pocket. This is strike 1 with this mod, have only used it a couple days now. It may be looking for a new home real soon; I cannot have this kind of behavior
I update tomorrow night
Tank Airflow Controller
Simple easy check.
Remove Nemesis Air control ring - fingernail under seam will lift. Just sits around an o-ring
Under a decent light - look into 510 connection toward Air Holes (2 holes) Holes should be clearly visible.
Just did this with one of mine to confirm.
Can also shine small flashlight into 510 connection and look for light through Air holes.
Still say the Delron cannot block the holes, the disk looks larger in diameter and seats against the housing.
Simple easy check.
Remove Nemesis Air control ring - fingernail under seam will lift. Just sits around an o-ring
Under a decent light - look into 510 connection toward Air Holes (2 holes) Holes should be clearly visible.
Just did this with one of mine to confirm.
Can also shine small flashlight into 510 connection and look for light through Air holes.
Still say the Delron cannot block the holes, the disk looks larger in diameter and seats against the housing.
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Crappy button and "self unscrewing" is known issue even for real nemesis. Button will be much better after few weeks of use and to prevent unscrewing you have to screw negative pin really tight.
I don't know how it works with magnet upgrade, maybe it will not unscrew with this upgrade.
I don't know how it works with magnet upgrade, maybe it will not unscrew with this upgrade.
No, thinking on it. Not sure I like the SS/Brass top piece. My mix is all brass top and looks very nice.
BUTTON FIX:
1 Teeny, Tiny drop of *BLUE* loctite on the lowest full thread. This will give bite, hold the screw still and allow height adjustment.
Well machined threads will move unless secured by some means. Either tightened or with a thread locking application.
BUTTON FIX:
1 Teeny, Tiny drop of *BLUE* loctite on the lowest full thread. This will give bite, hold the screw still and allow height adjustment.
Well machined threads will move unless secured by some means. Either tightened or with a thread locking application.
Quick question. What's the better battery option? I've been using a protected 18650. Should I continue with the protected battery or get a kick and just be able to use my Panasonic unprotected 18650?
Sent from my Droid to the Maxx
Sent from my Droid to the Maxx
Don't know what the better option for you is, but I use Panasonic unprotected batteries (CGR18650CH & NCR18650PD).
I mostly use my nem with AW 18490 but once in a while I use my only efest 18350 but I need to unscrew a lot the button for it to fit (the button sleeve doesn't cover the main tube) leaving a 1mm gap there that I don't like and also makes the lock ring too far so I need to give it a lot of turns to lock it. I've tried adding the "kick ring" (I'll get into that later) and it's too big so I don't get contact... is this a problem with all 18350's or just with efest button tops??
now for the kick ring... I've never used a kick nor have one but I always thought that you used a kick with a 18350 along with the 18500 tube and the 18490 bat with the 18650 tube, so is the kick just for the 18650 or why is it much smaller than the difference between the tubes?
now for the kick ring... I've never used a kick nor have one but I always thought that you used a kick with a 18350 along with the 18500 tube and the 18490 bat with the 18650 tube, so is the kick just for the 18650 or why is it much smaller than the difference between the tubes?
The smallest ring is for a 2 cent fuse.
The next size up is for an 18490/18500, or kicking either 18650 or 18350 batteries.
The next size up is for an 18650, or a kicked 18490/18500.
For an 18350 and no Kick or fuse...don't use any of the rings at all.
When I kick a flat top Efest 800mah 18350 in my HCIGAR brass clone, I also get a thread or so overhang on the button end with some of my atties flush mounted. Some atties can be adjusted a bit to take up the slack and be flush mounted. With others I just have to choose...let a thread or two hang out at the button end, or loosen the atty some and make room with the mod's center pin (a less than perfect flush mount on the atty...but it still works very well).
You could also just take the slack up with the atty mount and center pin, and add an O ring between the atty and the mod if 'air-flow-control' is an important issue for you.
You might have luck if you used a 2 cent fuse with the smallest ring (grind/sand the post side of the fuse as/if needed)...or use some other type of battery spacer with the fuse ring, such as a magnet spacer (be sure the edges are well insulated if you use an un-fused magnet or other conductive spacer). When I make an un-fused battery spacer...I either press/glue a magnet tightly into a thick plastic/silicon/rubber washer, or solder it to the pcb of a dead PTC (VapeSafe, ShortStop, 2Cent, etc.) fuse (I jumper where the dead fuse was of course).
An option would be to grind one or both of the mod's contact pins down some (I'd get some spare pins first tho', and you'd probably loose the silver plating at the contact point). Personally, if I were going to do this I'd probably grind the part of the center pin that touches the atty...you might loose some or all of the 'screw driver slot'...but does anyone use that anyway with a nemmy style mod?
Another would be to get an 'extended/longer' center pin for the positive end and use the small fuse ring.
Another would be to work on the atty some (grind away some threads, adjust center pin, etc) so that it doesn't fit as deeply and will flush mount.
Another is to spread the play out among all the various sections.
With some of the clones it is possible to adjust the black delrin part in the top of the mod (force it up or down inside the metal casing). I'm thinking this probably wouldn't offer much help, but it 'might'.
Or, as I do...just live with the slight over-hang in the bottom button upon the rare occasion I kick an 18350 and have a deep seating flush mounted atty. For me it's usually less than one thread overhang...so no biggie.
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