Nemesis "crunchy switch" fix

[schizm722]

The hcigar brand Nemesis is SO close to perfect that I will probably never know if the one made in Greece is actually better.
You are getting more than you pay for with the hcigar Nemesis, which is a rare treat.

"Crunchy switch" syndrome! (easy fix)

Most of the Nemesis, including the switch, is machined on a lathe.
Improper machining speeds or dulling cutters will make for machining marks, uneven finishes, etc. which is the sole reason for a crunchy switch. I'm a machinist, and sometimes we cut corners to increase production, etc. The switch is the only moving part of the device and was NOT the place to save time/increase production, etc., but we are past that point now.

Slowly take your switch apart, taking note of the placement of the little brass pin. Don't lose that pin, remember where it goes, it's the locking pin that allows you to screw in/unscrew your switch from the mod.
Take the spring(s)/magnets out.

You need to sand & semi-polish the switch post on the bottom cap and the inner diameter of the brass on the other half of the switch.
Start with a very fine grit sandpaper (I used 400 lightly, then 600) and finish/semi-polish with green scotch-brite.
Important:
Sand in the direction that the switch works.
Don't put sandpaper in the brass hole and spin it around, don't grab the post on the bottom cap with sandpaper and spin it around.
(this is the same way a lathe works, you want to remove the edges formed in that rotation, not add more!)
Work your sandpaper in and out of the brass hole & up and down on the bottom cap post, periodically cleaning and checking for smoothness by putting the 2 halves together and working them back & forth.
Don't go nuts and remove too much metal. We are not removing metal here, just machining marks. Sanding too much and changing the tolerances of the 2 halves will actually make your problem worse.
Once you get the machining marks out you will feel the smoothness.
Semi-polish with scotch-brite in the same way you sanded. (in & out and up & down - wink wink nudge nudge)
Clean, re-assemble, and be happy.
This makes for a smooth throw using springs or magnets, but the magnets feel better to me.

Hope this helps someone out.

~schizm

 

[Lifted]

"Common" knowledge is not universally available. Thanks for sharing!

 

[mattborkin]

This worked like a cchhhharrm! This makes perfect sense, but I wouldn't have thought of it right away (if at all!)!

Thank you so much.

Later,

Matt!

The HCigar brand Nemesis is SO close to perfect that I will probably never know if the one made in Greece is actually better.
You are getting more than you pay for with the HCigar Nemesis, which is a rare treat.

"Crunchy switch" syndrome! (easy fix)

Most of the Nemesis, including the switch, is machined on a lathe.
Improper machining speeds or dulling cutters will make for machining marks, uneven finishes, etc. which is the sole reason for a crunchy switch. I'm a machinist, and sometimes we cut corners to increase production, etc. The switch is the only moving part of the device and was NOT the place to save time/increase production, etc., but we are past that point now.

Slowly take your switch apart, taking note of the placement of the little brass pin. Don't lose that pin, remember where it goes, it's the locking pin that allows you to screw in/unscrew your switch from the mod.
Take the spring(s)/magnets out.

You need to sand & semi-polish the switch post on the bottom cap and the inner diameter of the brass on the other half of the switch.
Start with a very fine grit sandpaper (I used 400 lightly, then 600) and finish/semi-polish with green scotch-brite.
Important:
Sand in the direction that the switch works.
Don't put sandpaper in the brass hole and spin it around, don't grab the post on the bottom cap with sandpaper and spin it around.
(this is the same way a lathe works, you want to remove the edges formed in that rotation, not add more!)
Work your sandpaper in and out of the brass hole & up and down on the bottom cap post, periodically cleaning and checking for smoothness by putting the 2 halves together and working them back & forth.
Don't go nuts and remove too much metal. We are not removing metal here, just machining marks. Sanding too much and changing the tolerances of the 2 halves will actually make your problem worse.
Once you get the machining marks out you will feel the smoothness.
Semi-polish with scotch-brite in the same way you sanded. (in & out and up & down - wink wink nudge nudge)
Clean, re-assemble, and be happy.
This makes for a smooth throw using springs or magnets, but the magnets feel better to me.

Hope this helps someone out.

~schizm

 

[AntC]

My Nemi clone will be here shortly, and I've been dreading the one problem that most people seem to have, which is the fire button. Will be tryin this out, and also plan on doing a magnet upgrade, which is actually what I was looking for when I found this thread lol. Thank you for this, been a huge help, and I'll post later and tell how it went, or may be askin some questions lol.

 

[emus]

I put a nut on a M5-0.8 bolt. Fasten bolt/nut to SS cap. Chuck in drill. Drill in vise. Lock drill on in low speed in rotation that tightens bolt. Use long 1/8" wide strip of 800 grit. Remove machining mark peaks holding end of sand paper. Move paper back and forth to avoid groove. Repeat w/ 2000 grit 1/8" paper. I don't touch the softer brass cylinder.

Problem I have is some switches come w/ 0.015" clearance which is sloppy.
I don't know a DIY method for sleeving to remove switch slop.
My hcigar nemie has less slop than my FT nemies.
My hcigar has better switch tolerences but worse tube thread tolerances.
Tube has a fair amount of lateral movement which causes a sharp protruding body seam unless careful to tighten centered.
Some of the beauty rings have sever rounded edges from factory polishing; lost track which mods have best beauty rings.

Nemie clones are good but some machining practices could be better.

Any ideas for removing 0.015" switch post clearances (this is before sand paper)?

 

[mattborkin]

My Nemi clone will be here shortly, and I've been dreading the one problem that most people seem to have, which is the fire button. Will be tryin this out, and also plan on doing a magnet upgrade, which is actually what I was looking for when I found this thread lol. Thank you for this, been a huge help, and I'll post later and tell how it went, or may be askin some questions lol.

Ant,

I came up with a free method of 100% removing switch crunch on this mod. I'll type it out in detail later today - I've been meaning to post about it, but haven't had the chance.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

 

[mattborkin]

OK,

Here's the method that I used to solve my crunchy and catching button. I extracted the methods from several other posts and videos.

1) Completely break down the switch.

2) Stand the larger spring on a level surface, and make sure the top of the spring is level. If not, bend it to make it so. This will ensure a level, even trip when you press the switch.

3) Use fine grit sandpaper and gently, but firmly sand the inner portion of the Silver button tunnel. Sand the outside of the button post as well.

4) Use a felt dremel polishing tool (or something similar) on the same parts that you just sanded in step 3.

5) reassemble the switch and be sure that the top of the large spring seats evenly in the spring groove on the button of the main switch tunnel body. Check again that it is sitting level when it is set on a flat surface.

6) When you reassemble the entire switch, be sure that you tighten the negative post ALL THE WAY DOWN.

**The problem in many other posts is that people believe that is is actually a throw adjuster that allows the user to select how far the switch travels. This is incorrect, and the button will only fire consistently when it's tightened all the way down.

7) When you screw the switch in to the body, make sure that you tighten it firmly.

That's it.

Good luck.

P. S. Be sure to check the negative threaded post ever few days, it will unscrew a bit.

Please let me know how this works...

Thanks,

Matt!

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

 

[emus]

Magnets provide a more consistent 360 degree force than springs. Magnet force can be adjusted w/ shims. I love magnet switches.

I likewise snug every bit in all my mods. I don't like things working loose. I use shims if need to adjust throw, etc.

 

[AntC]

Just recieved my Nemesis today as I got home from work. My first mech! The button doesnt feel that bad. I was expecting a horrible, sandy feelin, uneven fire button. I definitely think theres room for improvement, and I'll be doing this fix for sure, but im glad its at least useable till I can get the parts ordered and shipped. I asked this in another thread, but im sure someone will know here, who is the black MOD box? Fast-tech, black box that says only "MOD". Who made this mod lol?

 

[emus]

Just recieved my Nemesis today as I got home from work. My first mech! The button doesnt feel that bad. I was expecting a horrible, sandy feelin, uneven fire button. I definitely think theres room for improvement, and I'll be doing this fix for sure, but im glad its at least useable till I can get the parts ordered and shipped. I asked this in another thread, but im sure someone will know here, who is the black MOD box? Fast-tech, black box that says only "MOD". Who made this mod lol?

I don't know but my white box ray is excellent.
Infinite box rays have good and not so good feedback.
Can't always judge mod by the box.

 

[AntC]

I don't know but my white box ray is excellent.
Infinite box rays have good and not so good feedback.
Can't always judge mod by the box.

It feels like its made well. Threads are very smooth, 510 is adjustable and the battery pin as well. I'm really happy with it. I've seen other people talk about the black box, they didnt know either lol. Im just curious, not concerned. I love this thing already! Haven't even hit it yet, still cleanin it up. So far no oils comin off.

 

[emus]

It feels like its made well. Threads are very smooth, 510 is adjustable and the battery pin as well. I'm really happy with it. I've seen other people talk about the black box, they didnt know either lol. Im just curious, not concerned. I love this thing already! Haven't even hit it yet, still cleanin it up. So far no oils comin off.

The black box tale of 2013.
FT sold SS nemie in pretty black box and many folk were happy.
One day Goldilocks got her mod in a white box and noticed it wasn't just right.
Since then all Goldie's friends wan't a black box.
The End.

 

[AntC]

The black box tale of 2013.
FT sold SS nemie in pretty black box and many folk were happy.
One day Goldilocks got her mod in a white box and noticed it wasn't just right.
Since then all Goldie's friends wan't a black box.
The End.

Lolol. Good stuff... now im really gonna have to find out .

 

[emus]

Lolol. Good stuff... now im really gonna have to find out .

Let us know how your switch works out. Maybe one day mod switches will be on the same level of smoothness as a $1.00 ball point pen. Camaro did the pin comparo.

 

[ForeverDiving]

Let's say you make $40/hour (Or $83,000 yearly salary, which I'm sure the average vaper doesn't)... You're saying "lifes too short" to spend an hour tops fixing a mod, so you should obviously work for ~5 hours or more to afford an authentic? (Or 25 hours if you're closer to minimum wage)... Makes sense.

...And that only if the authentic is available, which frequently isn't. Since I not only like, but truly love tinkering. I don't mind investing an hour, two, six, you name it, at a project. The Nemmy switch is a piece of cake once you know what to do.

I'm still using a DIY lens cover for the hood of a Leica Summicron M (1st Solms generation with square hood) whose prone to falling cap got lost and I never managed to justify the outrageous price ($65 some 15 years ago). I designed and built a better one that is loose proof. During a visit to the factory in Solms, one of the engineers noticed it and it was a piece of conversation for some 15 minutes among the design people. Some of the ideas were incorporated in the next version, something of which I'm quite proud of!





Plastic material from a CD jewel case.

Me at the Leica factory in Solms, 2004.

 

[tfraley]

The suggestions here totally made my button more smooth.

But have to say i'm not totally happy with the button.

When my button is locked, you can stand it on a table and it will wiggle back and forth.

The conclusion i've come to is the threads are not that solid it allows for a sway back and forth in the button it self.


any one figure out a way to fix this?

 

[Wraith504]

I used this technique as well on my nemy clone. Before I did this though, i purchased the extended top contact pin from fat daddy and that instantly fixed the switch

 

[ForeverDiving]

I used this technique as well on my nemy clone. Before I did this though, i purchased the extended top contact pin from fat daddy and that instantly fixed the switch

Glad to hear that. I ordered a pair of those among other stuff from Fat Daddy a coulple of days ago. A cheap fix is to make a small ball of aluminum foil and drop it down the post thread to increase the height a couple of mm.

 

[Maurice Pudlo]

I used this technique as well on my nemy clone. Before I did this though, i purchased the extended top contact pin from fat daddy and that instantly fixed the switch

This modification doesn't actually fix the switch it just reduces the throw which means you don't move the switch far enough to get the crunch.

As for fixes, whomever makes an undersized bore switch replacement that was user finished might make a killing. Cart your undersized switch replacement part to a machine shop with your actual switch and rice pin to have the bore fit and finished to perfection.

Otherwise if you have a shop in town that plates metal you might be able to take up a bit of the tolerance and get a better result than just smoothing the switch.

There really aren't any good free fixes.

Maurice

 

[Wraith504]

This modification doesn't actually fix the switch it just reduces the throw which means you don't move the switch far enough to get the crunch.

As for fixes, whomever makes an undersized bore switch replacement that was user finished might make a killing. Cart your undersized switch replacement part to a machine shop with your actual switch and rice pin to have the bore fit and finished to perfection.

Otherwise if you have a shop in town that plates metal you might be able to take up a bit of the tolerance and get a better result than just smoothing the switch.

There really aren't any good free fixes.

Maurice

LoL no its not "fixed" but you will no longer observe the crunch which is the desired effect. Sanding will fix it though as i now have the stock pins back in, sanded and zero crunch. With magnets I add.