Pretty cool Dan...I have some of these I got a couple weeks ago with my touch switch stuff that I am going to play with....I think modular components is the way to go! Great work as always buddy!
Digi-Key - 8730K-ND (Manufacturer - 8730)
- Status
Pretty cool Dan...I have some of these I got a couple weeks ago with my touch switch stuff that I am going to play with....I think modular components is the way to go! Great work as always buddy!
Digi-Key - 8730K-ND (Manufacturer - 8730)
youre not really pilot right , you just wear the shirt?
anyways , i love that fob , very nice , almost looks like youre trying to manufacture something
...
i was looking at mono jacks yesterday at the rat shack , and tought id have to look into mounts. theres plenty of connectors that would be great , bu most of the jacks are panel mount , and i dot have a dremel so cutting is out of the question , but that looks perfect!
i take it youre just screwing the terminals down on top of the coil , eh?
whats that battery by the way? a 2.4 ohm seems like it would be reallyhot..
-hov
anyways , i love that fob , very nice , almost looks like youre trying to manufacture something
...i was looking at mono jacks yesterday at the rat shack , and tought id have to look into mounts. theres plenty of connectors that would be great , bu most of the jacks are panel mount , and i dot have a dremel so cutting is out of the question , but that looks perfect!
i take it youre just screwing the terminals down on top of the coil , eh?
whats that battery by the way? a 2.4 ohm seems like it would be reallyhot..
-hov
youre not really pilot right , you just wear the shirt?
anyways , i love that fob , very nice , almost looks like youre trying to manufacture something
i was looking at mono jacks yesterday at the rat shack , and tought id have to look into mounts. theres plenty of connectors that would be great , bu most of the jacks are panel mount , and i dot have a dremel so cutting is out of the question , but that looks perfect!
i take it youre just screwing the terminals down on top of the coil , eh?
whats that battery by the way? a 2.4 ohm seems like it would be reallyhot..
-hov
LOL, Nope not a pilot, I am an IT Manager for an Aviation company.
Yes, just screwing the terminals down on the leg wires from the coil, very quick change! I changed from a 3.3ohm coil to a 2.4ohm coil in under a minute. I have 32ga, 34ga, and 36ga wire I am testing.
The battery is a 16340 protected.
This actually took me about two hours to make, excluding the 12 hour cure time for the thermeez!
Next is a ceramic encased coil, wrapped with mesh
Dan
Last edited:
thats too cool. id be wearing that shirt everywhere...then again i guess pilots dont get that kind of recognition anymore , but it beats my uniform...
im curious as to how youre getting the nichrome into the standoff , are you looping around the terminal screws , or just sticking the nichrome in the standoff. i was thinking of doing something like that , but drilling a small hole in the side of the standoff , and using it like a mini stereo screw jack. stick the nichrome leg in , screw down , done. im going to have to pilfer that thermeez stuff , at 35$ a tube , the wife will have my cojones made into her own personal eliquid... but man thats nice!
how does it hold up mechanically ? also : how is that mono plug holding up.
-hov
your new mission is this : a dripper fob!
Amazon.com: Ezy Dose Pill Fob Keychain with Window: Health & Personal Care
-hov
Amazon.com: Ezy Dose Pill Fob Keychain with Window: Health & Personal Care
-hov
The nichrome is single wrapped around the scew and then the srew is tightened and excess cut off, the post I am using provide a large enough shoulder to pinch the wire between the screw and the post providing contact and security. It is working perfectly, both mechanically and fluid delivery. The jack is holding up, but I may want to lathe the top and bottom so the fit together better taking the side to side stress off the jack. But as it is currently, it works great!
Yeah I know $35 bucks a tube, but I could probably make like 100 for one tube of this stuff.
Dan
it amused me the other day , because everyone on here asks about ceramics at one point , or another . a lot of kilns use nichrome as their heater. i think we need to make a bucket kiln , and just dump in a gallon of some dekang ry4... talk about a party!
anyways , all joking aside , im considering the possibilities of some other inert , insulating materials , and im just really stuck.
im gonna hit up harbor freight today , grab a couple fobs , and a pin vice if they have em. the quick change is a much easier alternative to my disgusting soldering skills. i think i got some flux on my wick last night , it tasted so horrible... it wasnt like flux , it was just SUUUUUPER harsh...
ill get a pic of it up here today once i go pay this ticket...
-hov
anyways , all joking aside , im considering the possibilities of some other inert , insulating materials , and im just really stuck.
im gonna hit up harbor freight today , grab a couple fobs , and a pin vice if they have em. the quick change is a much easier alternative to my disgusting soldering skills. i think i got some flux on my wick last night , it tasted so horrible... it wasnt like flux , it was just SUUUUUPER harsh...
ill get a pic of it up here today once i go pay this ticket...
-hov
Looking good guys.
Here I am stuck at the beach and just brought stuff to rebuild my failed units....lol
I'll be back at my tools in a couple days.
I'm liking the 2.5ohms .
hov, I've Been using a sewing needle"small dia" and the wick is maybe 1/16" max when wet and twisted. Then I wrap tight. It ends up abt 1mm dia. Seems to work better than larger diameters.
Here I am stuck at the beach and just brought stuff to rebuild my failed units....lol
I'll be back at my tools in a couple days.
I'm liking the 2.5ohms .
hov, I've Been using a sewing needle"small dia" and the wick is maybe 1/16" max when wet and twisted. Then I wrap tight. It ends up abt 1mm dia. Seems to work better than larger diameters.
yeah i had one that was a tester i just threw some green tea junk on , and it smelled fine , this one though , it is harsh . period.
i wrapped the coil around the fiberglass , but the fiberglass was put over the ground wire. its kind of like fly tying , and i thought it would insulate the magnet wire , but i think thats what im smelling/tasting. im going to work with some very fine wire i have (for fishing) , and see if i can wrap it all up on the wire , then pull the wire out(or leave it in , its stainless i believe).
i have been kicking an idea around based on dans standoff mount , i bet you could very easily find a plug or bit of metal to solder onto the legs of the coil , so that ll you have to do is push them in. i picked up some though hole ic's off ebay for a couple bucks , i might check around locally for that ceramic stuff. i wondered if you tried thinning it at all? seems like its pretty gritty , cakey lookin stuff. i bet we could get one of the glassblower guys on here to work up a pyrex insulator fairly cheap. just a basic plug with a couple holes for your mounting preference , and a hole on the bottom for power...
maybe a bit overkill , but i like glass...'specially pyrex...
-hov
i wrapped the coil around the fiberglass , but the fiberglass was put over the ground wire. its kind of like fly tying , and i thought it would insulate the magnet wire , but i think thats what im smelling/tasting. im going to work with some very fine wire i have (for fishing) , and see if i can wrap it all up on the wire , then pull the wire out(or leave it in , its stainless i believe).
i have been kicking an idea around based on dans standoff mount , i bet you could very easily find a plug or bit of metal to solder onto the legs of the coil , so that ll you have to do is push them in. i picked up some though hole ic's off ebay for a couple bucks , i might check around locally for that ceramic stuff. i wondered if you tried thinning it at all? seems like its pretty gritty , cakey lookin stuff. i bet we could get one of the glassblower guys on here to work up a pyrex insulator fairly cheap. just a basic plug with a couple holes for your mounting preference , and a hole on the bottom for power...
maybe a bit overkill , but i like glass...'specially pyrex...
-hov
Nothing is overkill when doing protos.lol
I like the hollow round pin IC sockets because you can cut the middle section off abt 2/3's and still have a good plug hole. Same with the bottom pin.
I put one wire of the coil under the bridge and then slide the needle with the coil still on it under the bridge. All you have to do then is feed the wires through the cup bottom and when they are pulled does all the way, slide the needle out and pull the rest to the height you want the coil to be.
This can be done easily on 801 and never remove the mesh or bridge at all.
I'll do pics for it when I get home.
I like the hollow round pin IC sockets because you can cut the middle section off abt 2/3's and still have a good plug hole. Same with the bottom pin.
I put one wire of the coil under the bridge and then slide the needle with the coil still on it under the bridge. All you have to do then is feed the wires through the cup bottom and when they are pulled does all the way, slide the needle out and pull the rest to the height you want the coil to be.
This can be done easily on 801 and never remove the mesh or bridge at all.
I'll do pics for it when I get home.
Everything looks much better from a puter than my cell...lol
hov, I'd plan on removing the stiff wire. I wrapped one up for cigar, 2.5ohms, and checked it once it was in the 801 cup. I had the wires pulled through the bottom and was checking to make sure nothing got scraped and was shorted. It measured 1 ohm? Then I realized it was the needle touching the nichrome coil somewhere. I slid it out and it was dead on 2.5 ohms. I really need to do some pics for the 801 ppl and put them in post #2 I'm holding. Even the low bridge can have the coil replaced without unwrapping any mesh or removing the epoxy seal in the bottom. No real exotic tools are needed either.
Then I'm going to do my cartomizer version and see how it works out.
hov, I'd plan on removing the stiff wire. I wrapped one up for cigar, 2.5ohms, and checked it once it was in the 801 cup. I had the wires pulled through the bottom and was checking to make sure nothing got scraped and was shorted. It measured 1 ohm? Then I realized it was the needle touching the nichrome coil somewhere. I slid it out and it was dead on 2.5 ohms. I really need to do some pics for the 801 ppl and put them in post #2 I'm holding. Even the low bridge can have the coil replaced without unwrapping any mesh or removing the epoxy seal in the bottom. No real exotic tools are needed either.
Then I'm going to do my cartomizer version and see how it works out.
Here's the approach I use that has worked well for me. Get some 510 atty connectors like this: 510 Battery Connector, Gold. Screw the atty into the connector and clamp the connector in a vise. Get a hollow aluminum tube (5/16 x .049), like this: K&S Engineering 3062 Round Aluminum Tube 5/16"X.049X12". Insert the tube into the atty and wiggle while pulling upward on the atty shell. The hollow part of the tube will fit over the bridge without damaging it. You'll have it loose in 10 seconds with no boiling, soaking, etc. Disconnect the atty from the connector and then use a slightly smaller tube or dowel to gently push out the bridge/mesh/cup assembly.
Interesting approach. I use a similar method to remove the fitting from cartomizers.
I remove the filler and insert a brass tube(local hobby shop stock) in the atty that clears the bridge. Then I wrap the carto body with a strip of bicycle inner tube rubber. Squeeze the rubber tight just over 1/4" above the bottom of the cartomizer with pliers and the give the tubing a whack. 2nd hit and the connector pops out the bottom and no scratches or distorting the tube. All ready to redo, experiment or whatever you choose.
For attys, its a bit diff than cartomizers due to the atty doesnt sit directly on the fitting. The 510 has protruding threads. You can purchase a die , thread it into it tight.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modders-forum/30256-taps-dies-901-801-510-4xx.html
I use a drill bit(11/32") that I removed just the surface for a tight fit in the tube. Slide it in till till it touches the bridge and pull it back abt 1/16". Then its just a matter of working the drill bit back and forth till the connector breaks loose and the do the same while pulling it away. The die can be held with pliers or in a vice.
A battery can be used, but you risk the fitting breaking loose from the battery first.
Heating for 5-15 min in boiling water or an acetone soak does help ease the release.
There are so many different methods(glues) used in assembly, you need to determine which one works the best for the brand you have.
On reassembly I dont reglue and only had one try to leak after at least 20 rebuilds. I just pushed the connector in all but 1/16" and then with a toothpick applied a thin layer of silicone sealer on the knurled exposed area and finished pushing it in. Wipe the outside clean, let it set overnight and it now has a perfect seal that's easy to break loose for the next rebuild.
Most will come right off and not damage the tube using these methods.
I remove the filler and insert a brass tube(local hobby shop stock) in the atty that clears the bridge. Then I wrap the carto body with a strip of bicycle inner tube rubber. Squeeze the rubber tight just over 1/4" above the bottom of the cartomizer with pliers and the give the tubing a whack. 2nd hit and the connector pops out the bottom and no scratches or distorting the tube. All ready to redo, experiment or whatever you choose.
For attys, its a bit diff than cartomizers due to the atty doesnt sit directly on the fitting. The 510 has protruding threads. You can purchase a die , thread it into it tight.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modders-forum/30256-taps-dies-901-801-510-4xx.html
I use a drill bit(11/32") that I removed just the surface for a tight fit in the tube. Slide it in till till it touches the bridge and pull it back abt 1/16". Then its just a matter of working the drill bit back and forth till the connector breaks loose and the do the same while pulling it away. The die can be held with pliers or in a vice.
A battery can be used, but you risk the fitting breaking loose from the battery first.
Heating for 5-15 min in boiling water or an acetone soak does help ease the release.
There are so many different methods(glues) used in assembly, you need to determine which one works the best for the brand you have.
On reassembly I dont reglue and only had one try to leak after at least 20 rebuilds. I just pushed the connector in all but 1/16" and then with a toothpick applied a thin layer of silicone sealer on the knurled exposed area and finished pushing it in. Wipe the outside clean, let it set overnight and it now has a perfect seal that's easy to break loose for the next rebuild.
Most will come right off and not damage the tube using these methods.
picked up some disposable 1800 puff cigars , and let me tell you , they are hogs. its like a 901 on steroids.. huuuuge bridge , with im guessing 3-5ml cartridge. i tried dripping , cause the taste was so horrible , but they are such juice hogs , i cant for the life of me get any vapor off them. even with the stock cartridge , they just plain suck.
but...
there is a ceramic cup with almost a half inch wide coil. okay , 3/8 , but whatever , it looks perfect for a coil that i can make.
now if only i could find the silica rope ... the wife wont let me buy anymore ecig stuff (cept atties and juice) , till we get moved into a house. good thing i made up my mod box , and can make them easy enough without having to solder much... coils i still havent figured out how to not make a mess..
heres a pic of something i was working on before my accident...
i was also thinking of making this setup with dual coils , mounted horizontally , but using one higher , about midway, with a circular wick (like actually threaded through a couple times to create a loop. i had some other ideas , but this would be like a pipe , bubbler sort of thing... proof of concept i guess...
-hov
but...
there is a ceramic cup with almost a half inch wide coil. okay , 3/8 , but whatever , it looks perfect for a coil that i can make.
now if only i could find the silica rope ... the wife wont let me buy anymore ecig stuff (cept atties and juice) , till we get moved into a house. good thing i made up my mod box , and can make them easy enough without having to solder much... coils i still havent figured out how to not make a mess..
heres a pic of something i was working on before my accident...
i was also thinking of making this setup with dual coils , mounted horizontally , but using one higher , about midway, with a circular wick (like actually threaded through a couple times to create a loop. i had some other ideas , but this would be like a pipe , bubbler sort of thing... proof of concept i guess...
-hov
picked up some disposable 1800 puff cigars , and let me tell you , they are hogs. its like a 901 on steroids.. huuuuge bridge , with im guessing 3-5ml cartridge. i tried dripping , cause the taste was so horrible , but they are such juice hogs , i cant for the life of me get any vapor off them. even with the stock cartridge , they just plain suck.
but...
there is a ceramic cup with almost a half inch wide coil. okay , 3/8 , but whatever , it looks perfect for a coil that i can make.
now if only i could find the silica rope ... the wife wont let me buy anymore ecig stuff (cept atties and juice) , till we get moved into a house. good thing i made up my mod box , and can make them easy enough without having to solder much... coils i still havent figured out how to not make a mess..
heres a pic of something i was working on before my accident...
i was also thinking of making this setup with dual coils , mounted horizontally , but using one higher , about midway, with a circular wick (like actually threaded through a couple times to create a loop. i had some other ideas , but this would be like a pipe , bubbler sort of thing... proof of concept i guess...
-hov
Interesting, I wonder how mch the juice will heat up though. As for silica rope, any surf shop will have Fin Repair rope, pretty cheap(under $5). Probably can find it local, but is also available on line as well.
thats the nice thing about a bubbler setup like this , as the air moving through the fluid should keep it cool. if it works like i would think it would , the bubbling action would not only keep the fluid cool , but also create a dampening action of the wick. after seeing just how little silica is in a 901 atty , i dont think a big wick is necessary...but i dont know...
It looks like the only 36ga here is 27ohm per ft, is that the same stuff, or did they change their stock?
i wouldnt worry about the guage , as long as the ohms are what you want , even 32 and 38 difference isnt that much...
what did you find?
- Status
Similar threads
