New Joyetech 20watt eGrip

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Mactavish

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Rutch

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However, I'm intrigued with the idea of using some of my 1.6 ohm Aspire BVC Atomizers (especially now that they are 100% cotton), and filing down the bottom connector so the bottom plug sits flush when screwed back in.
The newer Aspire Nautilus and Atlantis coils are cotton, but I don't think they've changed the standard BVC coils to cotton yet.

The bottom plug isn't going to sit flush when using a BVC coil, even if you completely remove the bottom connector, the BVC coils are just a smidge taller than the stock eGrip coils. The silicone skin that's available does help to keep the eGrip from wobbling when the bottom plug is protruding a bit, and saves the egrip from scratches.
 

Mactavish

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The newer Aspire Nautilus and Atlantis coils are cotton, but I don't think they've changed the standard BVC coils to cotton yet.

The bottom plug isn't going to sit flush when using a BVC coil, even if you completely remove the bottom connector, the BVC coils are just a smidge taller than the stock eGrip coils. The silicone skin that's available does help to keep the eGrip from wobbling when the bottom plug is protruding a bit, and saves the egrip from scratches.

Thanks, I orederd a case as well. I assume the air channels still line up properly even with the end cap not threaded in all the way?

Aspire has been changing all their stock over to cotton in the non-Nautilis coils, I have some of the newer ones. There is an entire thread here just on that topic.
 

Mimikim1234

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The white is not plastic, nor is it broken. It's silicone to seal off the electronics. Tighten the base down a little harder as was recommended. All will be fine!

I have two of the egrips. The white on the one I'm worried about is very jagged, and little white pieces are in the threads and probably have fallen into the tank. I sent a couple pics to a different vendor and they told me while it should be white, it shouldn't be jagged or crumbling;The most telling part is that the white on the second egrip is smooth, and normal on the inside, so I think this is abnormal.

I will try tightening down the base on the second one. It feels like it won't go further (the one with the crumbling inside screwed down very easily). I'm worried about breaking it while trying to tighten it down, and losing any warranty I may have. There is a place that just sells the atomizer base; maybe that will solve my problem. I don't want to mess up the threads.

Thanks for the advice everyone. :)
 
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Rutch

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Thanks, I orederd a case as well. I assume the air channels still line up properly even with the end cap not threaded in all the way?

Aspire has been changing all their stock over to cotton in the non-Nautilis coils, I have some of the newer ones. There is an entire thread here just on that topic.
Yeah, everything still lines up fine even with the end cap sticking out a little bit.

That's awesome if the newer non-Nautilus BVC coils are coming with cotton. The cotton Nautilus coils are much better than the older ones. Hopefully the next pack of BVC I pick up will have the cotton wicks.

Also, tried the pin swap technique tonight with a Eleaf GS Air coil. I had to swap over both the pin and the rubber insulator from the GS Air to the Aspire BVC coil since the pin from the Eleaf coil is a tad smaller and fell right out of the Aspire insulator. So far it's working great and haven't had any leaking issues
 

Bonitaj10

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I'm hoping someone can really help me :( I have the egrip with the rba installed - currently using the pre wicked coils (note that I have two setups - identical). Every time I use the device - there is substantial leaking through the air hole. I have tried to rewick the device multiple times using either more wick or less wick, I always make sure to try and create a vacuum seal when refillimg through the side holes, I always use the device on either 16w and higher, etc. no matter what - there will be leaking . I have called tech support and have ran out of ideas - I am currently vaping 50/50 blend. Not sure if someone can help or this has happened to anyone but If you can assist in anyway I woukld appreciate it. This device is awesome and the taste and vapor production is great; but the leaking is driving me nuts:(((((
 

Cellodick

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I'm hoping someone can really help me :( I have the egrip with the rba installed - currently using the pre wicked coils (note that I have two setups - identical). Every time I use the device - there is substantial leaking through the air hole. I have tried to rewick the device multiple times using either more wick or less wick, I always make sure to try and create a vacuum seal when refillimg through the side holes, I always use the device on either 16w and higher, etc. no matter what - there will be leaking . I have called tech support and have ran out of ideas - I am currently vaping 50/50 blend. Not sure if someone can help or this has happened to anyone but If you can assist in anyway I woukld appreciate it. This device is awesome and the taste and vapor production is great; but the leaking is driving me nuts:(((((

Start reading at the beginning of the thread. It's been answered many times in many different ways. But, check all of the seals first. The only way juice can come out is if air is getting in.
 

Bonitaj10

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Start reading at the beginning of the thread. It's been answered many times in many different ways. But, check all of the seals first. The only way juice can come out is if air is getting in.

I read through the threads last night and couldn't pinpoint the cause - all of my seals are good - I just wasn't sure if anyone else was having a similar problem where they thought they covered all points and then figured something else out explaining the leaks through the air hole
 

Skunkworkx

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How much wick are you using ?
What wicking material is it ?
What size coil are you making ?

The wick should be tight but loose enough to slide inside the coil with "some" resistance.
Wick should also be long enough to reach the juice well with a little extra length (1/16" per side or so)
I've been using the Japanese cotton with good success.
My coils have been tension wrapped on a 2.4mm mandrel using 28ga Kanthral A1 at 8 wraps (when I started wrapping my own coils, it was 10 wraps of 28ga K-A1 on a 2mm mandrel just wrapped by hand) just easier for me to do at 2.4mm.

When you wick, are you making the bunny ears, installing the chimney, then tucking in the wick and installing the chimney cap?
Also, be sure your cap has it's gasket too (white piece on cap)
 

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Cellodick

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How much wick are you using ?
What wicking material is it ?
What size coil are you making ?

The wick should be tight but loose enough to slide inside the coil with "some" resistance.
Wick should also be long enough to reach the juice well with a little extra length (1/16" per side or so)
I've been using the Japanese cotton with good success.
My coils have been tension wrapped on a 2.4mm mandrel using 28ga Kanthral A1 at 8 wraps (when I started wrapping my own coils, it was 10 wraps of 28ga K-A1 on a 2mm mandrel just wrapped by hand) just easier for me to do at 2.4mm.

When you wick, are you making the bunny ears, installing the chimney, then tucking in the wick and installing the chimney cap?
Also, be sure your cap has it's gasket too (white piece on cap)

Haven't we been through all this before??


Yes, we have.
 

WickedWicks

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I'm intrigued with the idea of using some of my 1.6 ohm Aspire BVC Atomizers (especially now that they are 100% cotton), and filing down the bottom connector so the bottom plug sits flush when screwed back in.
By bottom plug you mean the base which hold the heads, right? It won't sit flush as the Aspire BVC heads are taller. It'll fit in the base once you swap or modify the plus pin. But for the base itself to sit flush with the device you would have to file down the heads top cap, because it pushes against the chimney.


So my question, which can probably only be answered by those that have taken the Egrip apart and have seen the connection (air path tube) that mates with the top of the stock CS atomizers. My slight concern is the top of the Aspire atties is quite different, flat with a seal, as opposed to the design of the stock CS Egrip atties. If this area of connection does not make a good seal, it seems like a potential area for juice and or air leaks.[/url]
Don't force the BVC to screw in too tight, to avoid putting too much preasure on the chimney.
I was worried too about leaking too, so I cut out a sealing ring to place it on top of the heads spit back protection. I did not experience leaking without it though.
 

Mactavish

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Thanks very much for the clarification. I guess I got confused as I originally thought some folks were talking about fileing down the shorter stock CS bottom contact pin, so that after installed in the base, the base could then be screwed all the way to sit flush with the bottom of the device. But now that I actually have all the parts, I see that the Aspire coil already screws all the way down into the base, this of course after switching the shorter CS pin into the Aspire. I also used the CS white rubber insulator. So now I understand why you would say the top of the attie would have to be ground down for flush insertion. I won't be doing that as others mentioned, with the silicone wrap, you don't even know the base is not flush! So I simply went the simple route to start, swapping pin and insulator. Have not seen a leak yet, have had the bottom off a bunch of times so far.

GLAD you mention not going too tight when screwing the plug base back in, something I did not consider, will have to back off a bit, so many stories of leaks before I got mine, I did tighten it till it seemed to stop on its own, but that may be just a tad too tight and distort the internal chimney as you bring up, it never looked perfectly straight from my first look inside it before going to the Aspire switch, but it's been working fine so far.

BTW: As someone mentioned and was spot on ("throw out the first coil"), the CS pre-installed coil, started ok, then began flooding, I was sucking juice, and not having a good first experience, the 2nd included coil, which I properly prepped, tasted burnt from the first Vape, and I also start a new attie at the lowest wattage and slowly ramp up to break em in. Tossed that one quickly as it was not improving and taste awful. Also the Ohm's on the two included coils were HIGH at 1.8 and 1.7, grabbed one from the five pack and was 1.6, vaped ok. Then went to the Aspire BVC, all I have on hand right now are the now older NON-COTTON 1.6 ohm. As mentioned in this thread BETTER then the CS, and you save $$$. Going to order the newer Aspire BVC cotton wicked ones, also at 1.6. ohm. I do have them in the 1.8 ohm version but would like to stay closer to the devices 1.5 ohm specs for now. Hope the cotton ones Vape as well.
THANKS again!
 
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Mactavish

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FWIW: Measured both CS Attie and Aspire BVC attie (hacked with both CS pin & rubber insulator), screwed into Egrip base. Digital caliper readings:
HEIGHT
Stock CS: 23.26 mm
*Hacked Aspire BVC: 23.53 mm
So the height difference is approx: .27 mm
I unscrewed the base slightly, still makes good contact, same air flow, and NO LEAKS! No gurgling or other issues seen yet, now on 2nd tank of juice. So other then the pin swap, it seems this Aspire BVC hack is easy enough to do, without further modifications. Thanks everyone!
 

Mactavish

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Indeed, how about an Egrip RBA, sub thread for those using it, not everyone does. While I read every single post to help me decide before buying it took several days, I don't expect anyone to do that, and while searching is appropriate, many don't. Sometimes a specific question or answer might be tough to find, and well some just take the shortcut.
 
I read through the threads last night and couldn't pinpoint the cause - all of my seals are good - I just wasn't sure if anyone else was having a similar problem where they thought they covered all points and then figured something else out explaining the leaks through the air hole
Oh yes. Leaks like a sieve for me. I have tried suffing the wick upwards into the coil head, rather than down. This reduces the leaking, but also affects the draw/taste. It's too bad this head leaks so much, because the taste and draw are great.
 
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