New Kanger Box Mod- The Subox

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jseah

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I judge the connection by the OLED screen reading--as soon as the screen registers the resistance of the atomizer, I stop tightening. Over tightening is the worst thing one can do with those devices--it pushes the pin in and causes all kinds of problems, including leaking...
After I opened up the subox and raised the 510 pin, I put it back together and tried screwing the Subtank Mini back on. As soon as I felt resistance, I looked at the screen and the resistance appeared as 0.8 ohms. As I screwed it down a bit more, the resistance changed to 0.7. Screwing down even more, the resistance changed to 0.6 ohms, the resistance that the coil showed before I made the adjustment. But this also meant that the 510 pin is now pushed back down to where it was before. If this was my only mod, I would be concerned. As I am only planning on using the included Subtank Mini with it, I'm not really concerned about the 510 pin being pushed down.
 

hashtag

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I took the box apart to black out the buttons and when I reassembled it my battery door suddenly works correctly. no up and down movement and only a very slight left to right if I push directly on it. Before taking it apart the door had a lot of play in all directions and would come off the magnets sometimes. Now it snaps into the magnet tight and actually takes some work to pull off. I don't know what isi different or how I fixed it, maybe I tightened the screws more than they were pulling the innards closer to the body. Either way pleasant surprise.
 

ephilbe

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I took the box apart to black out the buttons and when I reassembled it my battery door suddenly works correctly. no up and down movement and only a very slight left to right if I push directly on it. Before taking it apart the door had a lot of play in all directions and would come off the magnets sometimes. Now it snaps into the magnet tight and actually takes some work to pull off. I don't know what isi different or how I fixed it, maybe I tightened the screws more than they were pulling the innards closer to the body. Either way pleasant surprise.
Bonus!
 
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tehmidcap

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Thanks for that link. I could not raise the connector, though. I am waiting to hear from the vendor to see if anything can be done.

You can skip the vendor all-together and have Kanger fix it if you've owned it less than 30 days. They fixed a Kbox and a Subtank Mini for me, no questions asked, and the Mini was completely my fault and shouldn't have technically been covered by the warranty (not that I said as much, but still).

Just go to kangertech.com and check the authenticity code, copy the numbers that show after to your clipboard.

Then e-mail service@kangertechus.com . Tell them the authenticity code verification numbers (paste into the email at beginning of message), what the product is, what's wrong, etc. Attach a receipt of payment that shows the vape store's contact info as well as date of purchase (if from online shop just go to your order history and bring up the order page that shows the date of purchase and when shipped and save that HTML file and attach).

They might e-mail you back once asking some silly questions, making sure it's not just simple user error (I'm sure they get that a lot, so it's understandable). Then they'll tell you the address to send it... Mail it USPS First Class for like $3 and you'll get a replacement sent out immediately.

Both times I did that they shipped out my replacement within 48 hours of them receiving the defective unit. May be less hassle than dealing with the vendor.
 

ephilbe

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After I opened up the Subox and raised the 510 pin, I put it back together and tried screwing the Subtank Mini back on. As soon as I felt resistance, I looked at the screen and the resistance appeared as 0.8 ohms. As I screwed it down a bit more, the resistance changed to 0.7. Screwing down even more, the resistance changed to 0.6 ohms, the resistance that the coil showed before I made the adjustment. But this also meant that the 510 pin is now pushed back down to where it was before. If this was my only mod, I would be concerned. As I am only planning on using the included Subtank Mini with it, I'm not really concerned about the 510 pin being pushed down.
At what point when screwing down does the tank make contact/feel lightly resistive now?
 

jseah

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At what point when screwing down does the tank make contact/feel lightly resistive now?
After I pushed the post up and put the mod back together, it would start to pick up the tank when there was probably an 1/8" gap between the tank and the mod. But by the time the resistance read correctly 0.6 ohm, there was probably a gap of about the thickness of two sheets of paper. It's been pushed back down now. At least now I know that if I want to use it with other tanks, I can adjust it.
 
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Lavaca5

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I understand the problem silicone creates with pockets. As for trying one out, this cover is designed to be left on, all the time. It has a cutout for the tank and the USB port for charging, making it more of an iStick type of device. If you prefer external battery recharging, this cover may cause more trouble than it's worth.
J Wraps has a clear wrap for it already. I'm thinking about going that route, although I can never get those things on straight.
 
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hashtag

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I don't know much about J Wraps. Is it a product or company?

J wraps is solid. My Sigelei NES controller wrap is from them. Good product, good company.

2015-06-30 21.09.15.jpg
 

dibe

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Sounds like your wick is too thin, the higher the PG ratio the more it will crackle as well.

I'll give it shot next time I rewick it. It is working now so I don't feel like screwing with it yet again. I use enough cotton so there is medium drag when pulling it through the coil. Not so much that it moves the coil all around when pulling through and not so little it pulls through with ease. I forgot to add I am using 70/30 VG/PG juice.
 

f1vefour

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Your wicking sounds like it's right, cotton swells when wet but shrinks a little under intense heat. I would still try a bit more.

I will add I'm running a twisted 32g 1.50 ohm coil in my Kayfun @ 12.5 watts right now, it does crackle quite a bit. Not sure of the ratio but I think it's 70/30 VG|PG.
 
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jseah

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Well after my first .5 vertical coil lasted 5 days and then my second one lasting less then 3 days I decided to jump into the RBA.

I am running a 1.5 coil at 12 watts. There is a lot of crackling going on when I take a draw from it. I was just wondering if this is to be expected?
How much juice did you go through during that time? I received my Subox about two weeks ago (or a little more) and I am still on the first 0.5 ohm vertical coil. I don't only vape on this, but I have still gone through almost 30 ml's of juice on that coil and it's still chugging away.
 
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hashtag

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How much juice did you go through during that time? I received my Subox about two weeks ago (or a little more) and I am still on the first 0.5 ohm vertical coil. I don't only vape on this, but I have still gone through almost 30 ml's of juice on that coil and it's still chugging away.

I get a good two weeks off a coil as well. I use a few different setups but I go through a tank or two a day on the subox.
 

dibe

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How much juice did you go through during that time? I received my Subox about two weeks ago (or a little more) and I am still on the first 0.5 ohm vertical coil. I don't only vape on this, but I have still gone through almost 30 ml's of juice on that coil and it's still chugging away.

Maybe around 25 or so on the first one. I had some dark juice on the second coil though and I'd say about 15 ml.
 
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