New tank from Joyetech: Ultimo
- Thread starter Shawn Hoefer
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Less than a week and first head doesn't keep up any longer.
From 50 watts AFC fully open down to just a bit open in 30 watts and only one liquid port seems to be wicking.
Time to cut the sucker up!
Less than a week for a head is way too little to warrant a status in daily rotation.
Oh, and it also started to leak a bit.
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From 50 watts AFC fully open down to just a bit open in 30 watts and only one liquid port seems to be wicking.
Time to cut the sucker up!
Less than a week for a head is way too little to warrant a status in daily rotation.
Oh, and it also started to leak a bit.
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Would estimate around 15-20 ml.
I'm starting to wonder if it's the ceramic that is the issue here degreading the cotton by staying warm far longer than the heating wire.
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Oh good, that means a coil should last me 30 days at least then, maybe even twice that
It's possible. Right before I switched to TC mode yesterday I was getting a faint weird taste. It could have been slightly burned cotton but I'm not certain. It went away soon after I started using it in TC mode though, and I've not noticed it again.
Keep us posted on your findings when you've had a chance to open it up please.
My first obe didn't last as long as a ceramic coil shoukd, either. I haven't had a chance to take it apart and look at it yet so I am looking forward to hearing what you find! I will try different cleaning methods with mine once I get a couple of free minutes. I've been able to clean my other ceramic coils and I am hoping that these will clean up, too, but we shall see. I much prefer them to occ and would love to get a good long life out of them.
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Sorry about the typos. It's early and I'm on my phone, lol.
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Oh my, I wasn't even using the ceramic one it seems.
So I humbly take back my sayings, around a week for regular is plenty, don't think you van re-wick these though, looked like the neg-lead was welded into frame.
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So I humbly take back my sayings, around a week for regular is plenty, don't think you van re-wick these though, looked like the neg-lead was welded into frame.
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So that was the Clapton?Oh my, I wasn't even using the ceramic one it seems.
So I humbly take back my sayings, around a week for regular is plenty, don't think you van re-wick these though, looked like the neg-lead was welded into frame.
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Still loving the RBA with provided coil. Second only to my Tornado Nano RBA.
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That it was.
Tbh I prefer the claptons, imo the flavour was better and it didn't get HOT! like the ceramic one does resulting less leaking (since the juice doesn't get hot, D'OH) and while the lifespan ought to be longer using one clapton a week is far cheaper than the stinkies.
Alas for the End Times one needs to stock up, but with the price of less than 10$ for a 5-pack it ought to be doable to get stocks for couple of years.
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I couldn't resist and slapped a quick build on the RBA to try. It's very nice too, very similar to the Bachelor RTA. A nice, wet flavorful vape.
I do have some wicking issues though, I suspect it's a combination of having the coil too high above the deck and a little too much cotton. I initially feared leakage upon filling it with those big juice holes and no JFC so I stuffed it well. No sign of any leakage though, I suspect that it helps that there's very little room between the glass and the chimney, this makes it difficult for the juice to flow rapidly, or at least it doesn't with my max VG juice.
I'll try turning the coil around thus having the coil legs above the coil instead of below it next time, to lower it a bit closer to the deck.
A few observations about the RBA:
-the set-screws are really tiny, this the smallest size Allen key I ever got with an RTA or RBA. This also makes them a bit fragile, I already stripped one out. I wasn't even tightening it that hard yet, it felt like the key fit too loose in the head of the screw. The key fitted in the second screw just fine though, so it must have been the screw head. It's gonna be fun digging that one out.
-the clear seal on the top-threads of the RBA was pretty loose on mine. Not sure if they're all like that but it kept getting in the way when I was working on it so my advice is to leave it off until you're ready to screw the tank section on if yours is loose as well.
-the threading on the top of the RBA was very poorly done on mine. It's so thin that I'm surprised that the tank holds on to it when screwing it on and it's only held in place by two threads at most, but it seems to function fine nevertheless.
I do have some wicking issues though, I suspect it's a combination of having the coil too high above the deck and a little too much cotton. I initially feared leakage upon filling it with those big juice holes and no JFC so I stuffed it well. No sign of any leakage though, I suspect that it helps that there's very little room between the glass and the chimney, this makes it difficult for the juice to flow rapidly, or at least it doesn't with my max VG juice.
I'll try turning the coil around thus having the coil legs above the coil instead of below it next time, to lower it a bit closer to the deck.
A few observations about the RBA:
-the set-screws are really tiny, this the smallest size Allen key I ever got with an RTA or RBA. This also makes them a bit fragile, I already stripped one out. I wasn't even tightening it that hard yet, it felt like the key fit too loose in the head of the screw. The key fitted in the second screw just fine though, so it must have been the screw head. It's gonna be fun digging that one out.
-the clear seal on the top-threads of the RBA was pretty loose on mine. Not sure if they're all like that but it kept getting in the way when I was working on it so my advice is to leave it off until you're ready to screw the tank section on if yours is loose as well.
-the threading on the top of the RBA was very poorly done on mine. It's so thin that I'm surprised that the tank holds on to it when screwing it on and it's only held in place by two threads at most, but it seems to function fine nevertheless.
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@CrayCrayRay, do you use those notch coils in wattage mode or TC, and how many watts does it take to fire approximately?
I threw one in my Kayfun V5 but have some problems getting it going. I'm trying to figure out if it needs more power or that I have insufficient wicking, but don't want to overcook it. I only got one left, a leg came off the first one unfortunately.
I threw one in my Kayfun V5 but have some problems getting it going. I'm trying to figure out if it needs more power or that I have insufficient wicking, but don't want to overcook it. I only got one left, a leg came off the first one unfortunately.
I've carefully pried the notch coil from the Kayfun and stuck it on the Ultimo-RBA, have the wattage figured out but not the wicking apparently. It keeps giving me dry hits, I need more practice.
The notch I'm using I'm running at 30w and its sitting at .25ohms. My wicks are covering the juice channels loosely so the juice can feed more freely to the notch. I can chain vape a whole tank at 30w. Wicking is definitely the hardest part with notch coils.
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For the love of...
These damn ceramic heads are just downright TERRIBLE!
Leaking like crazy, suppouse it's the nature of the beast, NEVER seen anything good coming out from mixing ceramics and vaping.
Wondering if the leaking is an issue with other brands or has JT just dropped the ball and leaked a bit over it?
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These damn ceramic heads are just downright TERRIBLE!
Leaking like crazy, suppouse it's the nature of the beast, NEVER seen anything good coming out from mixing ceramics and vaping.
Wondering if the leaking is an issue with other brands or has JT just dropped the ball and leaked a bit over it?
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I removed some wick and it worked better, but I had distorted the coil a bit which sort of bended it and now it has a nasty burned taste. I'll try cleaning it but I think this one is done. I'm trying the clapton coil at the moment, not bad neither. I'm surprised how good all these coils taste right from the bat.
I was using the notch coil in TC mode by the way, and saw on Escribe that it drew around 16 to about 20 watts depending on how fast I was inhaling.
That's with the ariflow closed down and a very narrow driptip though, I noticed it draws a lot more current with the airflow opened up.
I haven't had any leakage whatsoever with the ceramic nor any of the other coils. Did you check if the ceramic was centered properly and if the o-rings were in place and did you tighten down the coil real hard?
@cooladdict @CrayCrayRay
Not to hijack this thread, but id like to ask, whats special about DNA board mods?
Been looking around and noticed the price hike on them compared to other none dna mods.
Iv looked around the net, and all what i can find is that its better when it comes to software updates,, is that it?!
I hope im not posting this post in the wrong place.
Not to hijack this thread, but id like to ask, whats special about DNA board mods?
Been looking around and noticed the price hike on them compared to other none dna mods.
Iv looked around the net, and all what i can find is that its better when it comes to software updates,, is that it?!
I hope im not posting this post in the wrong place.
There are many things.
First is consistency. Most DNA mods come with the same bright screen, same software experience and a ton of support in the form of users, manufacturers etc. also, when you select a wattage you can be sure that is the wattage you will be getting. TC works, unlike other mods that claim TC, but in fact do not do temp control. The board is reliable. Escribe is another bonus. Being able to change a ton of settings in a app rather than through a clunky menu system on the mod is nice. I'm sure I'm missing some things, but I have yet to come across a board that I like more than the DNA200.
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