Hi I'm using a sigelei fuchai with a geekvape avocado 24 rta. Just started using it today and I bought some premade coils from a vape shop. they're 22 gauge kanthal with 7 wraps and it comes out to 0.35 ohms. I'm only using a single coil build. I've been vaping it at 50-70 watts. is this good? I don't want to blow up. This is probably the most noob question ever but I have no idea.
New to rebuilding and confused on what wattage to use.
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I moved you to APV Discussion from Ask The Veterans - you need assistance now...not in a few days.
Your on a regulated device so you should be fine. That's got to be a damn hot vape though, at .25 ohms I'm only vaping at 31 watts but I like a slightly warm vape or I'm just a wuss 
The 22g needs more power or else youre gonna wait quite a while for the ramp up.
As mentioned it's a regulated mod so youre most likely not going to blow anything up. Just Vape it at the wattage you enjoy the most
As mentioned it's a regulated mod so youre most likely not going to blow anything up. Just Vape it at the wattage you enjoy the most
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Not my vaping style, I prefer a quicker ramp up with 26awg and never go above 40 watts but it sounds like your good there between 4.2 and 5 volts at 50-70 watts but make sure your battery's can handle the amp's load - in the upper wattage range you are at 14+ amps
At 70w the amp draw is actually about 24 amps. That's divided between the two batteries of course.
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You sure about that?
70w/4.9v=14.28a
I get 14.28 amp draw at 70 watt. 0.35 ohm build and 4.95 volt at resting voltage, not even under load!
@Rio6 Just to safe, check out some links to choosing known good battery's and suppliers.
18650 Battery Ratings -- Picking a Safe Battery to Vape With | E-Cigarette Forum
The amp draw is calculated based on the battery (cutoff) voltage, not the set voltage. And the resistance doesn't matter.
77 (70w +10%) / 6.4 (two batteries in series, cutoff at 3.2v) = 12 amps (would be 24 on a single battery).
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Thanks for that, sure you can see I into mech mods more so than regulated and have that mindset.
It took a good long while for me to get the differences in calculations as well.
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I guess it must be the high air flow and high VG juice that allows high wattage to be a good vape. Even with tanks like the Lemo and Orchid V4 that have direct lung hit air flow I don't like anything above 20W.
On my Kayfun 3.1's I'm usually at 10W and frequently below that. My 80pg/20vg juice isn't so compatible with high wattage, anyway.
On my Kayfun 3.1's I'm usually at 10W and frequently below that. My 80pg/20vg juice isn't so compatible with high wattage, anyway.
Buck-Boost converters are interesting circuits. I don't claim to completely understand the intricate operation, but the interaction between the capacitor/inductor coupling is where it all happens.
I can see why the battery is taking all the current load all the time.
There's an animation at the link below that shows the operation of a buck-boost circuit in both modes. It shows the switching transistor changing states as the inductor builds a field and the capacitor charges and discharges. The Schottky D1 diode conducts in one direction during buck mode, turning off when the voltage on its cathode goes positive. D1 doesn't conduct at all in boost mode because it's reverse biased. D2 is on all the time in buck mode and cycles in boost mode.
Buck-Boost Converters
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