New to vaping...quick question

[Two_Bears]

Wow! I'm so glad I joined this forum. Great advice I'm getting from you all. I know there's a lot to learn about vaping and I'm tryin to educate myself as much as possible. Thanks to everyone that took time to answer my question. I think I may go ahead and order the kangertech I mentioned above. I'll come back and post when I receive it and get some help on setting it up if needed. Thanks again!

We are all vapers to one degree or another. Some use Mouth To Lung (MTL) some Lung Hit (LH)

some use Clearomisers some use tanks some use Genesis Atomizer some use Rebuildable Dripping Atomizer ,(RDA). many such as myself prefer Rebuildable Tank Atomizers (RTA).

I did everything above but the genesis Atomizers in my search for the perfect vape.

I was perfectly happy with my Evod clearomiser. At that had 0 desire to DIY my ejuice or wrap and wick coils.

But I really enjoy building to an ohms level i like and high VG juices.

 

[Two_Bears]

I noticed you said horizontal occ coils 0.5ohms 15-30 watts and you run yours at 40-45 watts...so you can run it higher than what's stated and that's ok to do?

No. Simple answer.

It depends on the thickness of the ejuice.

50/50 ejuice is thinner than an ejuice that is 70% VG /30% PG. I have one DIY juice that is 80% VG Vegetable Glycerin 20% PG Propylene Glycol.

Thinner juices wick better so when using them you can safely fudge to the high side.

Now the messages you quoted from Susan and myself.

I was using the old horizontal coils. Susan is using the new vertical coils. The juice doesn't have to travel as far as it did you get inside the horizontal coils I used and is better able to keep the wick saturated so she can go higher in watts than I could with the old style heads.

Basically vape where you like. Once you tsste burned cotton you will know how high is too high.

 

[vigga256]

Yes. The recommended ranges are just suggested by Kanger as guidelines. They have nothing to do with safety. If I was running e-liquid/juice with higher VG (I am using 50% VG) I would probably not be able to run that high due to "dry hits".

Here's one for you: Kanger Subox Mini Kit - Tank & Battery

Yes. You can always run a high amp cell (i.e. battery).

A little more about manufacturers. There are only a few battery manufacturers in the world who make their own "cells", including LG, Panasonic, Samsung, Sanyo, and Sony.

All the other brands on the market buy the second and third tier cells from those manufacturers and re-wrap them under their own brand. These are "second and/or third tier cells" which did not meet the higher standards of the original manufacturer. So, in order to compete with the original manufacturers' batteries (first tier), these other companies feel obligated to publish specifications which are inflated to make them appear superior to those of the original manufacturer.

* (AW is Andrew Wan, a former Panasonic employee who branched out to create his own "brand" of batteries. He allegedly has agreements with the major cell manufacturers to purchase first tier batteries from them. Not all batteries are created equal, so AW tests these batteries for quality. The best get chosen to be AW brand, and are re-wrapped as AW.) AW is a well respected re-wrap reseller.

Efest, MOJO, AWT, Basen, Eizfan, IMRen, Sub-ohm Cell, Vamped, Vappower are all re-wrap resellers that are buying these "second and/or third tier cells" (sometime referred to as "B & C bin discards"). They print the "pulse discharge rating" on the label and pass it off as their CDR (continuous discharge rating). They often charge double what the authentic is worth. Unless you know what you are getting, stay away from these brands as you never know what is under the wrapper.

If you are interested in learning more about batteries check out some of the blogs by two of ECF's battery/safety experts, Baditude and Mooch.

Here are links to some of @Mooch's blogs:

• No matter what is printed on the battery wrapper: There are no 18650 batteries with a genuine rating over 30A!
• Links to all his battery tests to date: List of My Battery Tests | Mooch's Blog
• Picking a Safe Battery to Vape With: Table of 18650 Battery Safety Grades | Mooch's Blog

And a couple from @Baditude

• Battery Basics for Mods - The Ultimate Battery Guide
  Another essential read to understand which batteries are safe to use in mechanical and regulated mods. Includes a frequently updated list of recommended safe-chemistry, high-drain batteries with their specifications.
  
• Purple Efest Batteries not as Advertised
  A cautionary blog that reveals that the purple Efest batteries may not have the specifications advertised. Also includes a commentary on "continuous discharge ratings" vs "pulse discharge ratings" of battery specs.

BATTERIES - WHERE TO BUY

Only buy batteries from a reputable supplier (not ebay or Amazon) as there are many counterfeit batteries being sold. Here are several reputable battery suppliers in the US.

• RTD Vapor
• Illumination Supply
• Orbtronics
• IMR Batteries
• Liion Wholesale

Susan-S- first off, thanks so much for your more than helpful replies! As I've stated, I want to learn as much as possible about vaping and the safety of vaping as I do tend to run a little on the paranoid side! Lol
So I almost did buy an Efest battery. Glad I read your reply and links before I did because I would have ended up never using it. Erring on the side of caution ya know.
It's bad companies sell that battery along with some of their starter kits in the drop down menu. What a shame for someone that doesn't know any better...like me.

 

[vigga256]

No. Simple answer.

It depends on the thickness of the ejuice.

50/50 ejuice is thinner than an ejuice that is 70% VG /30% PG. I have one DIY juice that is 80% VG Vegetable Glycerin 20% PG Propylene Glycol.

Thinner juices wick better so when using them you can safely fudge to the high side.

Now the messages you quoted from Susan and myself.

I was using the old horizontal coils. Susan is using the new vertical coils. The juice doesn't have to travel as far as it did you get inside the horizontal coils I used and is better able to keep the wick saturated so she can go higher in watts than I could with the old style heads.

Basically vape where you like. Once you tsste burned cotton you will know how high is too high.

Ok so this may sound stupid, so forgive me-
When talkin about horizontal and vertical coils, is that in relation to how they screw into the tank or how the cotton/wick is "threaded"?

 

[vigga256]

We are all vapers to one degree or another. Some use Mouth To Lung (MTL) some Lung Hit (LH)

some use Clearomisers some use tanks some use Genesis Atomizer some use Rebuildable Dripping Atomizer ,(RDA). many such as myself prefer Rebuildable Tank Atomizers (RTA).

I did everything above but the genesis Atomizers in my search for the perfect vape.

I was perfectly happy with my Evod clearomiser. At that had 0 desire to DIY my ejuice or wrap and wick coils.

But I really enjoy building to an ohms level i like and high VG juices.

So what is in the kangertech nano and the kangertech mini? I think I've read it's rebuild able (maybe) but what actually comes with it?
You use RTA but don't have any desire to wrap and wick coils, so what are you actually rebuilding? Again, dumb question, sorry. But if I don't ask, I won't know

 

[Two_Bears]

Ok so this may sound stupid, so forgive me-
When talkin about horizontal and vertical coils, is that in relation to how they screw into the tank or how the cotton/wick is "threaded"?

Vigga

There are no stupid questions.

A horizontal coil is horizontal like a can of soda lying on a table, and the wick goes through the coil much like the soda inside the can.

A vertical coil is like a can of soda standing up. The wick on the vertical coil is on the outside

There is only one way you can screw the coil head into the base.

 

[vigga256]

So what is in the kangertech nano and the kangertech mini? I think I've read it's rebuild able (maybe) but what actually comes with it?
You use RTA but don't have any desire to wrap and wick coils, so what are you actually rebuilding? Again, dumb question, sorry. But if I don't ask, I won't know

I think I may have answered my own question by re reading your reply. You were referring to the evod clearomiser when you were talking about wrapping and wicking coils, yes? So again, what are you actually rebuilding?...the atomizer?

 

[vigga256]

Vigga

There are no stupid questions.

A horizontal coil is horizontal like a can of soda lying on a table, and the wick goes through the coil much like the soda inside the can.

A vertical coil is like a can of soda standing up. The wick on the vertical coil is on the outside

There is only one way you can screw the coil head into the base.

So if both are offered for the kangertech mini and nano, and I'm assuming they are (?), which do you get?

 

[Susan~S]

So what is in the kangertech nano and the kangertech mini? I think I've read it's rebuild able (maybe) but what actually comes with it?
You use RTA but don't have any desire to wrap and wick coils, so what are you actually rebuilding? Again, dumb question, sorry. But if I don't ask, I won't know

The nano is a slightly smaller tank in both circumference and in how much juice it holds. It comes with factory coils. No RBA base is included. If you want one you have to purchase separately.

The subtank mini also comes with factory coils but also includes a RBA base that allows you to build your own coils (as well as 2 pre-wound coils, plus wick and wire).

Watch the video I posted. The reviewer shows how to use the RBA base and build a coil.

 

[Two_Bears]

I wish the RV park would fix their darn internet. I'm tire of duplicate and triple posts

 

[vigga256]

I wish the RV park would fix their darn internet. I'm tire of duplicate and triple posts

Could it be how I am responding to the threads? I hope not but, again, new to this too lol

 

[Two_Bears]

I think I may have answered my own question by re reading your reply. You were referring to the evod clearomiser when you were talking about wrapping and wicking coils, yes? So again, what are you actually rebuilding?...the atomizer?

No. The evod used pre made coil heads only much smaller

An RTA does not have any way to use pre made coils. I have to wrap my own coils then wick then with organic cotton.

I actually enjoy rebuilding because I can get consistency I like to build at .8-1 ohm, and I know how I like my wicks. Tight enough to prevent spit back and not leak.

Right now I am using two RTAs. The Goblin Mini, and Silverplay Nano.

 

[edyle]

Hello to all. I'm new to this vaping community. My son let me borrow is Vape to try it out to see if vaping was something I'd even be interested in. I really do like it and want anything to give up analogs! So I've got a kangertech Nano on top of a Sigelei Mini. It has a occ 1.2ohm atomizer in it. When he gave it to me the digital panel read as follows- 15W, 4.3V, 1.2(with an "omega" symbol next to that number). I guess my question is, is that a safe setting for vaping? I understand everybody has a preference on what they like to run theirs on but since it's not mine, that's all I know about it and want to be safe and not have the thing blow up on me! I was thinking of getting my own but I really don't like the pen style ecigs they tell beginners to start off with! I saw a complete setup from kangertech I really like- the subox mini (I think it's called) that they offer in black and red with a 4.5 tank capacity. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! I've read plenty of websites and still don't grasp ohms law and what is safe to run. Thanks in advance!

Yes that's a safe setting; you're only running less than 5 amps next to your face.
As far as anything blowing up, use good batteries; use IMR batteries; IMR batteries are the safer chemistry batteries.

If you are happy with your son's setup, there's no point in taking a backward step to a pen style setup (unless you just want something smaller, or less powerfull).

 

[Two_Bears]

Vigga the way you are replying has nothing to do with my duplicate post.

I click post reply and it acts as if the message did not go through. I click post reply again and find out a few minutes that I posted the same message twicd or four times trying to get the message to go through.

About your question I would recommend the mini over the Nano for two reasons.

1. Comes with an RBA when you want to try rebuilding.

2. The Mini holds more ejuice.

 

[Two_Bears]

Yes that's a safe setting; you're only running less than 5 amps next to your face.
As far as anything blowing up, use good batteries; use IMR batteries; IMR batteries are the safer chemistry batteries.

If you are happy with your son's setup, there's no point in taking a backward step to a pen style setup (unless you just want something smaller, or less powerfull).

I would go with the subtank mini over the Nano he is using because it will give him more options.

 

[vigga256]

No. The evod used pre made coil heads only much smaller

An RTA does not have any way to use pre made coils. I have to wrap my own coils then wick then with organic cotton.

I actually enjoy rebuilding because I can get consistency I like to build at .8-1 ohm, and I know how I like my wicks. Tight enough to prevent spit back and not leak.

Right now I am using two RTAs. The Goblin Mini, and Silverplay Nano.

I guess that is something I'll need to read more about. Do you do your own because, as you said, you know how you like them or is it also a more economical way to go?
I thought I'd be saving some money by not buying analogs any longer- roughly $7 a pack X's 7 days a week= about $50. I've spent over that in a week just buying coils and juices! I haven't even ordered the kangertech yet! Smh. I think it may round it's self out once I find a few juices I will buy repeatedly and have a good mod (is that what you'd call the device itself?) lol

 

[vigga256]

Vigga the way you are replying has nothing to do with my duplicate post.

I click post reply and it acts as if the message did not go through. I click post reply again and find out a few minutes that I posted the same message twicd or four times trying to get the message to go through.

About your question I would recommend the mini over the Nano for two reasons.

1. Comes with an RBA when you want to try rebuilding.

2. The Mini holds more ejuice.

Ok, good. I was hoping it was not on my part.

I think I will go with the mini too because of the fact it does have a bigger tank capacity. 3mls vs 4.5mls I believe. It's only 1.5 mls difference but that matters to me. And like you say, it comes with an RBA if I want to some time try my hand at that.

 

[vigga256]

So another question- when I borrowed his set up, he told me I'd have to change out the atomizer. When he refers to atomizer, that's the same thing y'all refer to as coils, right?

I did change it out and primed it like he showed me. I filled the tank and the juice was delicious! I'm in about 5 or 6 days with that new atomizer and now the flavor just isn't there anymore. Is it time to change the atomizer already?? They guy at the Vape shop told me they'd last between 2-4 weeks but not likely to be towards the 4 week mark. Seems like I'm going through the juice so fast but maybe it just seems like it because idk what is "normal" usage. Any thoughts?

 

[Two_Bears]

I guess that is something I'll need to read more about. Do you do your own because, as you said, you know how you like them or is it also a more economical way to go?
I thought I'd be saving some money by not buying analogs any longer- roughly $7 a pack X's 7 days a week= about $50. I've spent over that in a week just buying coils and juices! I haven't even ordered the kangertech yet! Smh. I think it may round it's self out once I find a few juices I will buy repeatedly and have a good mod (is that what you'd call the device itself?) lol

Rebuilding offers consistency, and much lower cost

Buying coil heads are about ,$2-2.50 each.

I can wrap a coil for about a penny and I can wick it with an organic cotton ball that costs about 5-6 cents one cotton ball will wick probably 6-10 coils so someone using OCC heads is paying $2 or more and I rebuild for 2-3 cents.

If I am careful removing the wick I can dry burn the coil to clean the gunk off of it; then I can install another wick inside the coil.

In my Goblin Mini RTA I had one coil last for almost three months then I probably used one cotton ball to keep the coil wicked so I vaped the Goblin Mini 10-11 weeks on 7 centd of rebuilding supplies.

My only real cost was recharging the battery and the stuff I used to make my own ejuice. I get Vegetable Glycerin by the gallon and propylene glycol by the quart.

The biggest expense is the nicotine and flavoring.

 

[vigga256]

Rebuilding offers consistency, and much lower cost

Buying coil heads are about ,$2-2.50 each.

I can wrap a coil for about a penny and I can wick it with an organic cotton ball that costs about 5-6 cents one cotton ball will wick probably 6-10 coils so someone using OCC heads is paying $2 or more and I rebuild for 2-3 cents.

If I am careful removing the wick I can dry burn the coil to clean the gunk off of it; then I can install another wick inside the coil.

In my Goblin Mini RTA I had one coil last for almost three months then I probably used one cotton ball to keep the coil wicked so I vaped the Goblin Mini 10-11 weeks on 7 centd of rebuilding supplies.

My only real cost was recharging the battery and the stuff I used to make my own ejuice. I get Vegetable Glycerin by the gallon and propylene glycol by the quart.

The biggest expense is the nicotine and flavoring.

Wow! That's quite a bit of savings!!

I know you're probably a pro at rebuilding now but was it difficult when you started doing it?