Newb Modders! Easiest DIY 3.7V MOD KIT - EASY

[Mark Linehan]

Okay, I have been making mods and having fun. I have made 5v pass-thru's, 3.7v box mods, 5v regulated mods with tiny control switches and am working on a Variable Voltage bottom feed but Top Served juice feeder mod. Then I decided, just for the heck of it, I wanted to try one of these simple little kits. You see, my very first mod, a 3.7v box was ugly as all get out. It had melt spots from poor solder control, and the switch legs were a bit iffy because I held the iron too long and the plastic around the leg started to soften up. Basically, it was my first mod, and it was scary. I had been wanting to redo it for a while, but my 5v were my mods of choice until recently. Once I found these new E2 R4 mods, I discovered that they were terrific even on a 3.7v battery. So I decided I would rebuild my 3.7v box, and to do it, I chose one of the box mod kits that my favorite (only) supplier was selling.

They have these kits, that come with everything you need to make a simple 3.7v box, and the battery case actually comes with all the holes pre-drilled. You can build this kit with nothing more than a bit of glue or epoxy and a soldering iron (well and solder of course)

I had mine put together in under 15 minutes. This kit is perfect for beginners who want to make a mod, but don't want to have to go buy a dremel and all the rest to get it done. You might need something to clean up a hole, but mine were all clean and ready to go. I own a dremel and everything else for modding now, but I only needed epoxy and solder.

The kit has a battery connector, a nice strong switch, an led, a resistor, and a 2xAA battery box with a built in switch. So you have a main switch for the box itself as well as the momentary on switch for a fire switch. You could not get an easier kit for a first time modder in my opinion.

I wish they would make these with a 5v regulator version and a juice box version too. I like building mods for friends and occasional selling as well. These make it so easy it almost feels like I am just building a model. In some ways it is!

Here is a link to the kit on MadVapes and a pic of my own finished kit. Pay no attention to the rubber ring reservoir I superglued onto the top of the mod. It is ugly, but I am paranoid about liquid leaking into one of the battery failure vents in the battery box.

Link To MadVapes Box Mod Kit

The Outside

The Fast Changing LED

The Inside


Mark Linehan

 

[coolone1]

Mark you have given me hope. I may try this.
Thanks

 

[Mark Linehan]

I highly recommend this as a first mod for everyone. They are so cheap, so easy to make. You don't have to invest in a hundred tools to build it. You can get away with just a soldering iron and some solder/flux.

If you enjoy building it, as much as I enjoy modding, then you can look into buying tools and more parts and coming up with your own designs, etc. I have been modding like crazy, and plan to keep going and making more and more complex devices as I go. I eventually want to come up with stuff that no one has made before (fat chance) and I have a TON of ideas.

Mark Linehan

 

[No Brag]

Thanks for this post Mark. I followed the link to MadVapes and ordered one of the mod kits. It came in the mail this morning and I am sitting here vaping with it as I am writing this. It is an easy kit to put together and seems to vape great. I had a small issue with the horn switch being hard to work at first. It seems to have come out of this with use. I might have over heated it while soldering the wires to it.
The main problem is now you have me hooked and I want to make some more. I have an old blackpowder horn that I don't use anymore. Maybe I could use this for a case for a mod. I can just imagine the look on peoples faces when I suck on a powder horn, then blow "smoke". Yea, I've got to do that and go back over to the blackpowder club and see what happens.

 

[Mark Linehan]

Yes, it is addictive. The only thing I can say about MadVapes that is not great is that I wish they sold a bit more electronics components for making the variable voltage mods. Otherwise, they are great, and I am constantly looking for things that can be modded as well. I am currently spending most of my time making cartomizers from scratch with pill fobs, ego cone covers, dead atty and carto tubes and I have an idea for a power PV that will use triple 14500 batteries and a gargantuan cartomizer with five strands of nichrome wire uncoiled and spread out in a star pattern inside of a large container that will have about 2 amps heating the 5 wires and if it works properly I am hoping for some MAJOR vapor production with this bad boy. It is going to be a pretty large device though.

 

[silkakc]

Mark,

So with this kit, you could use 510 attys? Could you use the 1.7 Ohms low res attys with it or would they put the 2 AA batteries at risk? Can you drip into it and not use a cart?

Is the Joye 510 standard kit 3.7 volts too?

Thank you,
Lori

 

[Mark Linehan]

Mark,

So with this kit, you could use 510 attys? Could you use the 1.7 Ohms low res attys with it or would they put the 2 AA batteries at risk? Can you drip into it and not use a cart?
Is the Joye 510 standard kit 3.7 volts too?

This kit comes with a 510 battery connector so you can use the 510 atomizers and cartomizers on it. You can do anything on this box mod that you can do on any 510 atomizer or cartomizer. This kit only uses 1 (one) 14500 battery which has a fully charged range from 4.2v down to a nominal working voltage of 3.7v and I don't know how low the charge gets before it cuts out for recharging. You can have 1 battery in the unit and 1 charging at all times. ..and Yes, the standard JoyE 510 is listed as a 3.7v device as far as I know, but it does not last as long as a 14500 in my experience, although I probably vape less now than I did when I first started. When I first started vaping I was buying tornado(ego) parts like there was no tomorrow. Then I found MadVapes, and they saved me SOOOOOOO much money. That is why you always see me eagerly advertising word of mouth for my two favorite sites that I swear by! (look in my signature... no not MY DIFS.Forumer.com website, on the bottom. MadVapes and OneStopDIYshop)

So 8 bucks for the kit and 10 bucks for two 14500 batteries. ..That's not a bad price for a fully 510 compatible PV, eh? oh, well plus the charger, like another 8 bucks or so?? Then you can charge both batteries at once overnight. They charge up pretty quickly and how long a trustfire 14500 lasts depends on your vaping. My 14500's last me between 4 and 6 hours and I am a heavy vaper.

 

[b00stzx3]

Hey Mark, thanks for the post. I just made one of these without the LED and ordered more kits from Madvapes for my grandma and gf's mom. I was wondering how the LED wiring exactly goes? One wire from the switch, to the resistor to the postivie LED leg, one wire from LED negative leg to negative ground, and then I'm confused from there. How does the atomizer get powered with regards to the LED being in there? I tried looking at the Madvapes tutorial but am stumped.

 

[Mark Linehan]

Hey Mark, thanks for the post. I just made one of these without the LED and ordered more kits from Madvapes for my grandma and gf's mom. I was wondering how the LED wiring exactly goes? One wire from the switch, to the resistor to the postivie LED leg, one wire from LED negative leg to negative ground, and then I'm confused from there. How does the atomizer get powered with regards to the LED being in there? I tried looking at the Madvapes tutorial but am stumped.

Wire from battery + to switch then two wires from switch one to resistor then led then batt - the other wire to atty + then atty - to battry - .. easy

 

[b00stzx3]

Wire from battery + to switch then two wires from switch one to resistor then led then batt - the other wire to atty + then atty - to battry - .. easy

Ahh 2 wires from the switch output...


THANKS!!!!!!!!!! Hope my Madvapes pack comes tonight or tomorrow to try this out.

 

[Skyway]

I did some experimenting also and altered the box mod to fit my LR801's and decided to go a step further and recess it down into the box. Picture does not show it but I decided to add the led to the hole that the wires originally came through.

 

[No Brag]

Nice job on the mod Skyway. I have made one of these, but the led never did work. I have also made another one that uses 2 batterys in paraell. I like your recessed atty, but am not sure I would like the switch that low. I have another kit I'm getting ready to make for Lonerstar. I won't be putting in the led though. I really don't see the need for it and sometimes the light is just a pain in the ash anyway. Could you post some more pictures with the recessed atty? I'm still thinking about that and would like to see more of how it looks.

 

[Skyway]

Sure thing No Brag. Here is the thread of my build link.

 

[Para]

Hate to see your sig get whacked; you might want to edit it down in size before a Mod sees it

375px × 225px

Signature images (graphics, gfx) must be 400 x 65px or less in dimension

 

[No Brag]

Thanks Skyway
You did a great job. What did you do for the base for the adapter? Did you just glue it in there? I really like the recessed atty, but was thinking about it today and wondered what you do about leakage. I drip and even when I used carts. I would sometimes have juice leak out of the atty's air hole. Won't that get all over inside?

Sure thing No Brag. Here is the thread of my build link.

 

[Skyway]

The air hole on my connector is plugged with solder, it is probably not a full plug but it looks pretty air tight. One of the main ways the 801 gets air is from the threads, you wouldnt think so but it is true. I have made a blog about 801 attys and how the juice works in them and it makes sense if you use an 801 and think about it. I am a straight dripper, I tried the carto route and it did not suite me. My attys do not leak once I figured out the secret to successful 801 leakage. With how much wire mesh is surrounding an 801 heating element its almost a carto if you think about it. Most people when dripping just drip more once the flavor runs out and I can see doing that for the first couple of times but some of the juice runs down the sides of the heating element and into the threads. If you tip the atty at an angle, not straight upside down, you are essentially allowing some of that wasted juice to come back up towards the heating element. The delrin drip tip I use has enough of a lip on the inside that it will not come back into my mouth. Once I have held in that position long enough I just put it straight back up again and the flavor comes back for about 5 more puffs.
Granted this probably only works on 801's because of how big they are, I do not really use other attys that much so I havent tested this theory out.

As for the recessed base I scrapped some of a project box from radio shack and just made a small square with a hole for the connector drilled into it(drill the hole first). I then glued the base inside the box. Worked perfectly also. I did a good job with the dremel to get the size just right to fit into the slot.
Thanks for the props.

 

[Prodigal441]

I took that mod to another level. I got a double AA batt case that was a little longer than the one in that kit. I set up for 2 batts in parallel. This extends the run time and if you use carts that demand more current, it is there. Just be sure to rewire it to put the batteries in parallel or you will boost the voltage instead. Altough that may work for some peoples purposes. It depends on what you are trying to get out of it. For Run time and Current I put them in parallel.

 

[No Brag]

Hey, Prodigal,
That is about the same thing that I did with my second mod box. The big difference is that I used a 3 X AA box. I had to change the battery contacts, but I put the 2 AA batteries in the first 2 slots and the switch and atty adapter in the other one. I did like you did and wired them in parallel for extended bat life. It works great, but I really don't like the extra size. It does make the battery life last me all day now.

I took that mod to another level. I got a double AA batt case that was a little longer than the one in that kit. I set up for 2 batts in parallel. This extends the run time and if you use carts that demand more current, it is there. Just be sure to rewire it to put the batteries in parallel or you will boost the voltage instead. Altough that may work for some peoples purposes. It depends on what you are trying to get out of it. For Run time and Current I put them in parallel.

 

[Prodigal441]

Okay, I have been making mods and having fun. I have made 5v pass-thru's, 3.7v box mods, 5v regulated mods with tiny control switches and am working on a Variable Voltage bottom feed but Top Served juice feeder mod. Then I decided, just for the heck of it, I wanted to try one of these simple little kits. You see, my very first mod, a 3.7v box was ugly as all get out. It had melt spots from poor solder control, and the switch legs were a bit iffy because I held the iron too long and the plastic around the leg started to soften up. Basically, it was my first mod, and it was scary. I had been wanting to redo it for a while, but my 5v were my mods of choice until recently. Once I found these new E2 R4 mods, I discovered that they were terrific even on a 3.7v battery. So I decided I would rebuild my 3.7v box, and to do it, I chose one of the box mod kits that my favorite (only) supplier was selling.

They have these kits, that come with everything you need to make a simple 3.7v box, and the battery case actually comes with all the holes pre-drilled. You can build this kit with nothing more than a bit of glue or epoxy and a soldering iron (well and solder of course)

I had mine put together in under 15 minutes. This kit is perfect for beginners who want to make a mod, but don't want to have to go buy a dremel and all the rest to get it done. You might need something to clean up a hole, but mine were all clean and ready to go. I own a dremel and everything else for modding now, but I only needed epoxy and solder.

The kit has a battery connector, a nice strong switch, an led, a resistor, and a 2xAA battery box with a built in switch. So you have a main switch for the box itself as well as the momentary on switch for a fire switch. You could not get an easier kit for a first time modder in my opinion.

I wish they would make these with a 5v regulator version and a juice box version too. I like building mods for friends and occasional selling as well. These make it so easy it almost feels like I am just building a model. In some ways it is!

Here is a link to the kit on MadVapes and a pic of my own finished kit. Pay no attention to the rubber ring reservoir I superglued onto the top of the mod. It is ugly, but I am paranoid about liquid leaking into one of the battery failure vents in the battery box.

Link To MadVapes Box Mod Kit

The Outside
View attachment 22722
The Fast Changing LED
View attachment 22723
The Inside
View attachment 22724

Mark Linehan

I made one similar to this except I used 2 batteries in parallel to extend run time. It was simple to make and is great for long days.

 

[Mark Linehan]

I have made for myself or family/friends....

(4) Single 14500 - 900mAh - 3.7v - Box w/Fire LED and Horn Switch (DONE)
(3) Dual 14500 - 1800mAh - 3.7v - Box w/Fire LED, Main LED and Horn Switch (DONE)
Dual 14500 - 900mAh - 5v reg - Box w/Fire LED, Main LED and Soft Touch Switch (DONE)
(3)Dual 14500 - 900mAh - 5v reg - Box Pass Thru, Fire LED and Horn Switch (DONE)
(2)Single 10440 - 350mAh - 3.7v - Flashlight, NO LED, 12v 2A Push Button Switch (DONE)
Triple 10440 - 1050mAh - 3.7v - Flashlight, SLOW LED, 12v 2A Switch (DONE)
Quad 14500 - 1800mAh - 5v reg - 2 Boxes w/Fire LED and 24v 5A Switch, Bottom Feeder
-(The Quad Is Giving Me Problems But Not Sure Why, Batt's not getting along?????)-

...My Current Project....

THE WITCH CITY BRICK

Dual 3xAA Boxes - Quad 14500, 1800mAh, 4.2v Regulated Sweet Spot, Bottom Juice Feeder, Integrated USB Battery charger(s), Automatic Switch or Touch Switch, LED Display of battery voltage levels (A) Bank 1 and (B) Bank II each bank consists of 2 series batteries. Both banks are connected parallel.