Nimbus

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Xobeloot

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It's all about the ohms you build your coil to, as well as airhole size, etc...

I don't have a nimbus, but I use the cyclone. I stick with single coil (30awg kanthal a1) around 1.3-1.4 ohms on my 18350 mech mod and it is a beast. If I were to open up the air hole a bit, the cloud size would grow, but i'm more of a flavor-chaser myself.

Good luck, and be very careful with your builds (especially sub-ohm). Get either a multimeter or a vv mod to check your coil before firing it.
 

Xobeloot

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Try doing a twisted 28 gauge for dual coil or quad coil build buddy!

No thanks! I did come across a picture earlier of 3-strand braided 28g on 3mm eko. I can only imagine the clouds coming out of that thing.

Lowest I've ever gone (intentionally) was a dual coil 30 gauge at 0.8, but tit for tat, my little 18350's were not happy. They never got hot or vented, but damn... I think I went through all 3 of my spares in one work day.
 

MattyB1503

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Don't mean to offend anyone; but as this is the new members form, (all) please understand the fundamentals and potential danger regarding RBA's, especially concerning sun-one-ohm vaping.

The last thing our community need is negative publicity.

that out of the way:

own a good multimeter

Understand Ohm's Law

(for a dual coil) check the resistance of each coil pre-installed.

Check the resistance of your coils(s) installed.

Pulse your build as you check and brush your coils.

And do not trust YouTube to build you a safe coil.


Air flow, to a point, is directly proportional to vapor production; however, air flow is also inversely proportional to flavor. It's simple, in its dichotomy; how much do you want to stoke your coil vs. how much air do you want to mix with your vape.

Any system is as weak as it's weakest link. A mech mod's weakest link Should be the battery use. Sub-ohm coils require explicit knowledge regarding the C rating of batteries and more specifically the maximum continuous current output of you battery.

AW's 18350's should not be pushed harder then 6 amps.

The new-ish Orbtronic 18650's have a continuous rating of 10 and a pulse (~10 sec [?]) rating of 18 amps.

If you're under or over wicking change your resistance, change your wicking materia or build.

Bore your air holes gradually to meet your build, unless you know what you after.


Stock Nimbus air holes require a build of ~2.4 ohm coils on each side, and at that resistance your battery on a mech sill be 'done' at ~ 3.6v, rather than ~3.2v at ~0.8 ohms. Quite diffident vape and a difference in vape time actually.

And that is just scratching the surface.


This is why some shops, shamelessly, charge for builds. I say each will find their own, it will take some time; and RBA's aren't for everyone. Now-days some clearoz actually work..
 
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Xobeloot

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This is why some shops, shamelessly, charge for builds. I say each will find their own, it will take some time; and RBA's aren't for everyone. Now-days some clearoz actually work..

Very true. I've had several 1.6ml vivi clearo's that have been riding the same coil for months with no issue (sans the occasional alcohol bath)
 

selmaaxku

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rileyman

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I just sold mine, but had it running single coil all the time. Never opened the air holes though.
why do you prefer the cyclone over the nimbus? im about to purchase my first high end RDA and am looking for someones opinion on what to buy. Currently vaping on an igo-L with a 1.0ohm 30g 5/6wrap microcoil with a cotton wick, am loving the clouds
 

Xobeloot

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Bottom line is this: It doesn't matter if it's a Nimbus, a CHimbus, a Cyclone, a cyCLONE... $50, $5... It's all about your ability to build a good coil and coil positioning with the proper air flow.

The rest is simply aesthetic. The chimbus looks like a $5 piece, the Nimbus looks like a $60 piece, and so on...
 
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