Noisy Cricket II!!
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Do you own a NC v1? This doesn't look too bad but I'm not a fan of the Piglet really.
I do like the Brass and blue alum version though... "No shinyitis, down boy. Remember the Petri rta you want!"
GG gave it a very positibe review at 1:00:40. If they did a squonking version I might consider getting one 
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The cricket has landed...
So far so good... report more once I've played with it some...
Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk
So far so good... report more once I've played with it some...
Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk
A couple of comparison pics...
Istick TC100, NC2, Cuboid, Dropbox 160
Pico, NC2, VTC mini, Presa 75
I'll post first impressions, Pros and Cons a little later (lots of pros and couple of minor Cons).
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Istick TC100, NC2, Cuboid, Dropbox 160
Pico, NC2, VTC mini, Presa 75
I'll post first impressions, Pros and Cons a little later (lots of pros and couple of minor Cons).
Sent from my SCH-R970 using Tapatalk
Short and sweet initial review time...
Pros:
Lightweight
Solid durable feeling
Very comfortable to hold
Simple to use
Fires immediately
Cons:
No indication which way to turn the dial (clockwise to lower the volts)
Dial has no markings for voltage level
Typical Wismec 510 connection
So far I really like the Noisy Cricket II-25. It's simplicity and instant firing are a big plus. The battery life seems pretty good too. I've only been using it in constant voltage mode on the lowest setting and it feels like 50 watts with my .17 ohm build in my Boreas. For me it was worth the $30.
Pros:
Lightweight
Solid durable feeling
Very comfortable to hold
Simple to use
Fires immediately
Cons:
No indication which way to turn the dial (clockwise to lower the volts)
Dial has no markings for voltage level
Typical Wismec 510 connection
So far I really like the Noisy Cricket II-25. It's simplicity and instant firing are a big plus. The battery life seems pretty good too. I've only been using it in constant voltage mode on the lowest setting and it feels like 50 watts with my .17 ohm build in my Boreas. For me it was worth the $30.
I just got mine in the mail, so far so good, stupid question tho...the plastic tubes in the battery compartment, I removed them, is that right??? Or are they supposed to go around your battery, it works great without them
From what I know they are billed as protective sleeves. I left mine in, no issues and I like the extra safety.
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Is this top heavy at all?The cricket has landed...
So far so good... report more once I've played with it some...
Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk
With the Boreas it was a little. Though I've switched it up some...
Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk
I was considering this as my first mechanical and YES, I understand Ohm's law and the inherent danger of incorrect maths when it comes to mechs. Should I just purchase an OG Noisy Cricket? I feel like the electronics in the II would be a boon to a first time mecher.
I'd go with the version 2. For me with the options and protections it's a no brainer. Plus there won't be any issues with hybrid safe 510 pins and tank sizes interfering with the button.
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Do you own a NC v1? This doesn't look too bad but I'm not a fan of the Piglet really.
I do like the Brass and blue alum version though... "No shinyitis, down boy. Remember the Petri RTA you want!"
I have both the NC and the VCP (clone) and the VCP is by far the better mod IMO. I like everything about it apart from the fact that you need a tool to take the batteries out (although you can use your nails if you have strong ones!).
Sorry Donnie, but I cannot agree with you on the v1's longevity. I have 2 of them and I am now on my second set of buttons and they are failing.
I love the design, but these things just are not built to last.
If you want a mechanical mod then buy the v1. The v2 is not a mechanical mod.
The v1 may not last long. Mine are not built to last.
Agree, I'm experiencing electrical issues with my NC v1 as well, partially due to the button and partially to the unbelievable amount of dirty/oxide quickly accumulating in the button/hybrid cap threads
Considering that you need to unscrew daily both the cap and the button for replacing the batteries, you can deoxit/noalox all you want but it doesn't last
I have also a NC v2 now, nice mod if you plan to use it in direct output mode, either serial or parallel. No issues with the power button, and replacing the batteries is a quick and effortless affair.
I'm not a fan of its regulated power though, it's using some sort of PWM circuitry with low frequency sampling, you get rattling noise from the atom (Vamo-like, if you know what I mean)
Considering that you need to unscrew daily both the cap and the button for replacing the batteries, you can deoxit/noalox all you want but it doesn't last
I have also a NC v2 now, nice mod if you plan to use it in direct output mode, either serial or parallel. No issues with the power button, and replacing the batteries is a quick and effortless affair.
I'm not a fan of its regulated power though, it's using some sort of PWM circuitry with low frequency sampling, you get rattling noise from the atom (Vamo-like, if you know what I mean)
Has anyone found that the NCII 's lowest voltage setting Isn't 2V?
I popped a .33 build on it and at the lowest setting (full Dial CW) its hitting much harder than 2v
If I turn the dial full CCW its definitely putting much more power to the coil.
I compared with a few of my other mods and setting this at what "should be 2v" according to their documentation matchs my other mods at 3.5-4 volts.
The Fire button light is red/orange so it's definitely in Constant voltage mode.
I popped a .33 build on it and at the lowest setting (full Dial CW) its hitting much harder than 2v
If I turn the dial full CCW its definitely putting much more power to the coil.
I compared with a few of my other mods and setting this at what "should be 2v" according to their documentation matchs my other mods at 3.5-4 volts.
The Fire button light is red/orange so it's definitely in Constant voltage mode.
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