Noob: Am I doing this right? [Aspire Cleito]

[PurpleDragon]

6/20/2016 3:58 PM I am a newbie with my first setup, Wismec Pressa TC100W, with the Aspire Cleito. Came with 2 coils .4 and .2ohms.

First used the .4 with a very thick juice, the coil lasted me 4 days and used about 25 ml juice, about 1600 puffs, burning at 45W. Flavor was great (midnight vape co. "dunks") thick vape. 26650 battery lasted about a day.

I was expecting the coil to last at least a week (so they said at the store). I replaced it maybe after the fourth puff with a burnt taste and the flavor seemed less (I wasn’t sure if it was my imagination since this was my first try). When I cleaned the tank I wasn’t able to get the bottom off (not sure if it does come off) but I thought I would need to clean it in there.

Second used the .2 with a thinner juice (Heady Dips “AirHead”). There is hardly any flavor or sweetness. It takes a bit after pressing the button for the coil to produce any vape, whereas the .4 gave me vape immediately. Turned the heat up to 55W and it had slightly better vapor and taste but was too harsh on my throat. Haven’t finished with the .2 yet (2 days in). Also note that it leaked substantially when I put it in my purse (it was in a baggie). Also note that the airflow ring moves very easily, it’s very hard to keep it in the same position.

So, with all that said, my questions are: Does it sound like I am doing anything wrong? What caused such a decrease in quality with the second coil: lousy juice? Ruined my atomizer? Is the bottom supposed to come off and be cleaned? Didn’t clean it right? .2 ohms sucks? Why did my coil burn out so fast, is that normal? How can I keep the airflow ring to stay put, short of glue? Do they make caps for these things? Where can I find the cheapest coils?

 

[r77r7r]

Welcome. Isn't that point2 coil for temp control only?

 

[PurpleDragon]

Welcome. Isn't that point2 coil for temp control only?

My understanding from the guy at the store was that .4 you could burn 40-60W and .2 was 20-80W. Which is gibberish to me. I thought watts were a measure of power, not temperature.

 

[Eskie]

Welcome. Isn't that point2 coil for temp control only?

Actually, the coils from Aspire are either Kanthal or SS, so both can work in power mode only (SS for TC as well).

 

[PurpleDragon]

Basically I was pretty happy with the first try except how quick the coil burned out. My second try I really am not happy with and I have tried all different settings. The Presa has a ton of settings and I don't know how to set them, the online manual doesn't explain them. What is SS and TC? I have modes for POWER/TC-Ni/TC-Ti/TC-SS/TCR/VW and Bypass. And there are lots of abbreviated settings for each. I can't find any info. Ugh!

 

[Izan]

Basically I was pretty happy with the first try except how quick the coil burned out. My second try I really am not happy with and I have tried all different settings. The Presa has a ton of settings and I don't know how to set them, the online manual doesn't explain them. What is SS and TC? I have modes for POWER/TC-Ni/TC-Ti/TC-SS/TCR/VW and Bypass. And there are lots of abbreviated settings for each. I can't find any info. Ugh!

What did the "guy at the store" say when you asked all these questions about the device(s) you purchased?

Why did you chose this unit and atomizer?
cheers
I

 

[PurpleDragon]

I told him all my habits and this is what he recommended. He said both the Presa and the Cleito were the latest thing. He said the settings were all explained in the manual (NOT), and I am pretty good with technical stuff and I like to customize things so it seemed like a good idea. He also steered me away from rebuildable coils (cheap) to the Cleito coils (expensive) even though I told him I wanted the lowest possible monthly overhead. Then he sold me the wrong battery charger for $26 which was a long drive to return, and I was able to buy the correct one for $5 on eBay. He seemed like he knew what he was talking about.

 

[r77r7r]

 

[williamclarkonet]

I told him all my habits and this is what he recommended. He said both the Presa and the Cleito were the latest thing. He said the settings were all explained in the manual (NOT), and I am pretty good with technical stuff and I like to customize things so it seemed like a good idea. He also steered me away from rebuildable coils (cheap) to the Cleito coils (expensive) even though I told him I wanted the lowest possible monthly overhead. Then he sold me the wrong battery charger for $26 which was a long drive to return, and I was able to buy the correct one for $5 on eBay. He seemed like he knew what he was talking about.

Welcome to the forums! Sorry you had a bad time with the shop you went too. Make sure you "Prime" your coil before you fire it prime means you take your juice bottle and put a little bit in the coil not too much are you will flood it. then put your tank on and feel the juice up that will help not burn the cotton and that may make it preform poorly. also watts and power are the same thing some people call by either name. the lower the resistance the more power(or watts) you need to make it fire when you have a resistance down to .4 to .2 a .1-.2 difference makes a HUGE difference in how much power you need to make it fire.also when a tank is being used with juice in it, the seals to become looser. I hate to say this but pre-made coils for me suck I hate them they dont last long, when i used them i had to change every 3-4 days which got expensive i went with an RTA and never looked back or it maybe just as simple as a bad patch of coils I hope this help some and im sorry if you already know this information

 

[PurpleDragon]

Thanks for the video!

 

[r77r7r]

Thanks for the video!

Alot easier than trying to aquire the info on the scattered mess that is ECF.

 

[PurpleDragon]

Welcome to the forums! Sorry you had a bad time with the shop you went too. Make sure you "Prime" your coil before you fire it prime means you take your juice bottle and put a little bit in the coil not too much are you will flood it. then put your tank on and feel the juice up that will help not burn the cotton and that may make it preform poorly. also watts and power are the same thing some people call by either name. the lower the resistance the more power(or watts) you need to make it fire when you have a resistance down to .4 to .2 a .1-.2 difference makes a HUGE difference in how much power you need to make it fire.also when a tank is being used with juice in it, the seals to become looser. I hate to say this but pre-made coils for me suck I hate them they dont last long, when i used them i had to change every 3-4 days which got expensive i went with an RTA and never looked back or it maybe just as simple as a bad patch of coils I hope this help some and im sorry if you already know this information

That's a big help, I think I want to switch to an RTA. Now looking at the cleito rta but unsure what the right coils are (their site doesnt say)

 

[Topwater Elvis]

RTA = rebuildable tank atomizer.
You wrap/build, mount, test & wick the coil. Experiment with different wire gauges, diameters, style/type of coil(s) and wicking material & methods until you find what works best for you.

 

[bigTRAV710]

Get the herakles rta2 , it is the easiest rta to build and wick, and holds 6ml of juice. Also no leaking for me ever. The clieto just doesnt have good flavor imo. Crown is the only subohm tank i like but i get coils for cost, if i had to pay retail i wouldnt bother with it. Watch youtube tutorials and also start at 20 watts and slowly up the watts with a new coil so u dnt burn it.

 

[ph0enix]

The Clieto doesn't work well for me, either. And it's difficult (for me) to take apart and clean. I use a couple other Aspire tanks and I love them.

I had a similar problem with a new mod sold to me at my local shop. I took it back and after some testing, they agreed to exchange for something I liked better. A good, knowledgeable shop should help you with any product they sell you.

 

[PurpleDragon]

OK so now I have the cleito rta, tried several builds each with different results. But whatever I do they get burnt up within a day it seems. Maybe I am mistaking the taste of "dry hits" with burnt coils? Also got the Youde Bellus, trying to do a single coil build but tastes burnt every other hit. Watched multiple videos on building each and it seems like I am doing it right. On any of my builds I have a really hard time getting consistent Ohms. I dont haave time for all this, can anyone recommend a SUPER EASY & forgiving to build single coil w/ a big tank and 22mm dia?

 

[Continuity]

The Bellus is quite an 'advanced' tank to start with, but even then it's not really *that* complicated once you've done a couple of decent coils.

The important thing is the *wick* - what are you using as wicking material, and how tight are you stuffing it through the coil(s) and are you twisting the whole length of it?

It sounds like you might be using too tight and/or dense wicks - you should be able to pull the cotton wick from the coil without too much effort, but enough so that it 'catches' enough. A good rule of thumb is the wick should be snug enough to pull out without tipping your mod over. The idea is to make each coil turn be in contact with a piece of the wet wick, otherwise you get a nasty 'hot leg' taste of hot metal.

If your resistance is fluctuating, then that can lead to harsh hits and wick abuse as the mod is incapable of calculating the correct amount of power to send to the coil based on wrong resistance measurements.

I take it that you're using Kanthal/Nichrome/SS wire in Power (Wattage) Mode and not Nickel/Titanium in Temperature Control mode, as TC mode is especially sensitive to resistance fluctuations caused by poor contact etc.

Things I've noticed with the Bellus are - try and mount the coil(s) as far up/down as is needed to get a clear view of the coil from the airhole at the side. You can mount it slightly further up/down to get slightly more/less air throughput.

Also, the Bellus requires the coil(s) to be mounted quite close to the centre post so as to prevent the coil(s) from fouling on the edge of the chamber when you mount the deck.

You mention building the Bellus singe-coil - I hate to ask, but you obviously inserted the silicone single-coil adapter properly on one side, using the holes to mount the little 'nubs' into?

EDIT - What kind of builds are you trying? What wire, resistance, coil diameter, wick material etc?

 

[PurpleDragon]

The Bellus is quite an 'advanced' tank to start with, but even then it's not really *that* complicated once you've done a couple of decent coils.

The important thing is the *wick* - what are you using as wicking material, and how tight are you stuffing it through the coil(s) and are you twisting the whole length of it?

It sounds like you might be using too tight and/or dense wicks - you should be able to pull the cotton wick from the coil without too much effort, but enough so that it 'catches' enough. A good rule of thumb is the wick should be snug enough to pull out without tipping your mod over. The idea is to make each coil turn be in contact with a piece of the wet wick, otherwise you get a nasty 'hot leg' taste of hot metal.

If your resistance is fluctuating, then that can lead to harsh hits and wick abuse as the mod is incapable of calculating the correct amount of power to send to the coil based on wrong resistance measurements.

I take it that you're using Kanthal/Nichrome/SS wire in Power (Wattage) Mode and not Nickel/Titanium in Temperature Control mode, as TC mode is especially sensitive to resistance fluctuations caused by poor contact etc.

Things I've noticed with the Bellus are - try and mount the coil(s) as far up/down as is needed to get a clear view of the coil from the airhole at the side. You can mount it slightly further up/down to get slightly more/less air throughput.

Also, the Bellus requires the coil(s) to be mounted quite close to the centre post so as to prevent the coil(s) from fouling on the edge of the chamber when you mount the deck.

You mention building the Bellus singe-coil - I hate to ask, but you obviously inserted the silicone single-coil adapter properly on one side, using the holes to mount the little 'nubs' into?

EDIT - What kind of builds are you trying? What wire, resistance, coil diameter, wick material etc?

Thank you for the detailed post! I have done everything you suggest, but at this point I believe my Bellus RTA tank is defective, and possibly a clone. I bought it specifically to use with the single coil feature. I have re-built it six times (twice using the coils included and 4 times with different coil builds) and each time I cannot get the OHM readout stable once I attach the single coil plug attachment and put the top on. I have made sure the coil is centered, not touching the posts or the cover, view-able through the air hole, my leads are trimmed as short as possible and my post screws are properly tightened. I have watched a bunch of videos and I am doing everything right.

Additionally, after seeing the videos and working with the tank, I believe it may be a clone. The stainless steel is slightly darker, it is not machined well (scratchy threads and a “tinny” feel), and the ends of the glass tank are not quite parallel. Also in the videos, the single coil attachment is silicone and Teflon. Mine is silicone and ceramic, and does not seat well into the base.

It did have an authenticity scratcher on the package but unfortunately I ruined it opening the box. I have contacted MyFreedomSmokes and they have agreed to take it back.

 

[Continuity]

My Bellus is a cheapy $13USD clone from Fasttech, and it looks just the same as photos of the original, it just has no logos on it (which I think is far more fair to the makers of the original) and my single-coil adapter is some kind of white squishy silicone-type deal with a metal half-moon for the top, and the 'nipples' fit into the holes perfectly well.

It sounds like you've an eye for quality and you've certainly picked up a lot about coil-building and general tank maintenance, to be sure.

When you say the resistance is fluctuating, by how much are we talking about here - and are you building coils for Wattage (Power) Mode and not Temperature Control? (TC is a lot more sensitive to variations in resistance)

Have you ensured that the screw at the bottom in the 510 connector is tight?

 

[Continuity]

Incidentally - TC = Temperature Control, SS = Stainless Steel (mostly in relation to coils, SS316/L = different grades of SS, TC/(Ni-SS-Ti) = Temperature Control(Nickel-Stainless Steel-Titanium), TCR = enables you to set a manual number for the type or grade of wire (instead of using the presets), VW = Variable Wattage (Power) Mode, Bypass = acts like a mech - just dumps all available battery power into the coil.

I like single-coil RTAs, I've found more and more these days - asides from the Bellus (which I'm using in single-coil mode with the airflow shut right down), I also bought an SXK Wine which is a very nice looking, very forgiving to build single-coil 5ml RTA and I've got a Taifun GT2 V2 on its way to me which is an old-skool single-coil 5ml MTL tank which is also quite easy to build on once you've got it dialled in.

What kind of vaper are you - do you know yet? Are you more of a MTL (mouth-to-lung, like smoking a cigarette) or a DTL (direct-to-lung, like huffing paint thinner) vaper?

I'm presuming that you want single-coil more because they're a bit easier to build and setup rather than the different vape quality they give than a dual-coil?