Not happy with my REO these days :(

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patsfan1130

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So a couple of weeks ago I noticed my RM2 was not performing very well (Would take upwards of 6 or 7 seconds for the coil to heat up and give me a decent vape). So I re coiled it (1.3 ohm using 28g kanthal. With a brand new coil I still experienced the same issue. So I completely broke it down and cleaned it (warm water, a bit of dish soap and a toothbruth)..This did not fix my problem..My next move was to give both the RM2 and my REO an ultrasonic bath. Still having the issue :/

I just got done installing the replacement kit Rob sells and I am STILL experiencing a long delay in heating the coil!! It's not the atomizer. If I throw it on any of my other mods (regulated and mechanical it fires up like a dream)

I'm at a loss here. For kicks I went back to a 1.7 shorty carto and it isn't firing it as it once did...I've got to hold the button for 6 or 7 seconds to get it to perform. I've replaced everthing I can...

Anyone have any thoughts or suggestions? I'm likely going to have to send it in to Rob in the hopes he can find an issue with it. There is only so many things it could be and as far as I know I've replaced em all.
 

InTheClouds

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^^^^ What Patrao_n said, if everything else has been replaced it would suggest to me it is the battery, did you put Noalox on the new firing pin? The other thing it could be is maybe the connector pin in the Reo where the RM2 connects has somehow gotten pushed down a tad where it is not getting a good connection.
 
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ancient puffer

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ETA: You got some good suggestions to try while I was typing all this :) But if those fail, try this-->

Just my 2 cents, not being an electrical engineer or anything :) You mentioned the coil is 1.3 ohms. Have you measured it while it's installed on the REO (with a multimeter), as opposed to on a separate tester? I'd check that first. (For example, if you've overtightened the atty at some point, forcing the 510 connector down too far, you may get a good connection on some PV's but not others). If that also reads 1.3 ohms, then it's time to do some detective work.

If you're confident that you know what should and should not be connected, then you could test resistance, in tiny steps from the tip of the firing pin, to the spring, and so on, eliminating each component as being the cause until you find it. None of the individual components you test should show significant resistance. (For those who don't know, resistance measures between ZERO, i.e., a good connection...all the way up to infinity, i.e., a dead short or no connection at all.)

To give you an idea of what you're looking for, on my grand, I show (for example) the same resistance between the screw that holds the spring in and one post of the atty, that I get when I measure between the two posts of the atty (there may be some difference, but my meter only measures to the nearest .1 ohm). If you see something that seems too high, it probably is and you've isolated the problem.

Once you know where the problem is, then you can figure out what's wrong and/or how to fix it.
 
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Funk Dracula

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You bought and installed this kit?

http://www.reosmods.com/index.php?p...&category_id=3&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=9

I'm stumped a bit. There are only a couple parts that make up the Grand. Hollow 510 pin, 510 insulator, firing plate, tube connector, spring.

Did you replace the spring? I know it might be tempting to skip that part if it looks fine...

Even in a new Grand, the spring is the point at which the most voltage drop takes place. If you didn't replace the spring, perhaps it is semi-collapsed or compromised, which will make that voltage drop very noticeable.
 

Robinowitz

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I was having a similar problem that I just fixed. The metal connector (firing pin) on mine has always been nearly flush to the black (plastic?) thingy inside. Sometimes when I scuffed up the metal part it was impossible not to hit the black thingy as well. After doing all the regular cleaning maintenance tonight, I used a small knife and gently (very gently) separated the metal away from the black thingy which enabled it to make contact with the battery easier. Hope this makes sense and hope it helps.
 
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thinkingaboutit

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Speaking from experience...I suck at maintenance. That's why I have a pile of reos.

The problem I noticed, when I let one firing pin get too ugly, it leaves problems with the battery as mentioned above. Putting it in a new reo I sometimes still have to spin the battery a little.


Yea...I know...I get busy dammit. And lazy.
 

patsfan1130

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Great suggestions all! Thank you Just to answer some questions...

I used the repair kit Rob sells and replaced everything it came with (gasket, contact, tube and spring) I followed along with his video and it all went together without a hitch. I thought it may be old batteries or my chargers as well. But I tried brand new AW IMR that test @ 4.2v fresh off a charge. Noalax...no, I did not, have not used it in a long time. I will try that. I do not own a volt meter. Maybe I'll run to the store this afternoon and grab one.

Thanks again everyone!
 

oplholik

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Great suggestions all! Thank you Just to answer some questions...

I used the repair kit Rob sells and replaced everything it came with (gasket, contact, tube and spring) I followed along with his video and it all went together without a hitch. I thought it may be old batteries or my chargers as well. But I tried brand new AW IMR that test @ 4.2v fresh off a charge. Noalax...no, I did not, have not used it in a long time. I will try that. I do not own a volt meter. Maybe I'll run to the store this afternoon and grab one.

Thanks again everyone!

AH HA! There it is. I will bet Noalox will help. :)
 

Raynman

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Great suggestions all! Thank you Just to answer some questions...

I used the repair kit Rob sells and replaced everything it came with (gasket, contact, tube and spring) I followed along with his video and it all went together without a hitch. I thought it may be old batteries or my chargers as well. But I tried brand new AW IMR that test @ 4.2v fresh off a charge. Noalax...no, I did not, have not used it in a long time. I will try that. I do not own a volt meter. Maybe I'll run to the store this afternoon and grab one.

Thanks again everyone!
Sounds like a good filing and Noalox are in order. The higher ohms you use delayed this from happening for a few weeks as opposed to a couple of weeks with a subohm coil
Try a lower ohm coil, 0.8-1 ohms, 8 wraps of 28 1/16 should do it...
Sorry tmel but lower ohm coil will cause this to happen more often. It will give a boost to flavor and vaper production.
 

Robinowitz

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ETA: You got some good suggestions to try while I was typing all this :) But if those fail, try this-->

Just my 2 cents, not being an electrical engineer or anything :) You mentioned the coil is 1.3 ohms. Have you measured it while it's installed on the REO (with a multimeter), as opposed to on a separate tester? I'd check that first. (For example, if you've overtightened the atty at some point, forcing the 510 connector down too far, you may get a good connection on some PV's but not others). If that also reads 1.3 ohms, then it's time to do some detective work.

If you're confident that you know what should and should not be connected, then you could test resistance, in tiny steps from the tip of the firing pin, to the spring, and so on, eliminating each component as being the cause until you find it. None of the individual components you test should show significant resistance. (For those who don't know, resistance measures between ZERO, i.e., a good connection...all the way up to infinity, i.e., a dead short or no connection at all.)

To give you an idea of what you're looking for, on my grand, I show (for example) the same resistance between the screw that holds the spring in and one post of the atty, that I get when I measure between the two posts of the atty (there may be some difference, but my meter only measures to the nearest .1 ohm). If you see something that seems too high, it probably is and you've isolated the problem.

Once you know where the problem is, then you can figure out what's wrong and/or how to fix it.

Thanks Puffer for posting this! I've been using my multimeter for checking coils and am wanting to learn how to check resistance in other areas. Can you break it down a bit more please? I assume the battery is in ( thought I would check, cause you know about assuming...). Also, do I always keep a probe on one of the posts while I check (please fill in blank) with the other probe.

Appreciate it!
 
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