Nuppin'

[Train2]

I don't think it's 100% consistent, but yes - I think they're off-center.
You can USE it in planning your coil placement.
Since the cap let's you pop the airhole wherever you want, you can kind of make the legs shorter if you want - by using that angle...

This one (which is a good reference for a nifty way to get the legs in the holes) looks pretty straight.

But this is angled...

If you look at google images of nuppins, I'd say "most" have the offset.

 

[AngiBe]

Ok thanks Train...kinda weird TBH but if it's supposed to be offset, I'll not mess with getting it straight. LOLOL

 

[Spydro]

So, the center post hole is supposed to be "offset" and more towards the right versus all three holes straight forward? If so, I feel like an idiot

In a word... yes... that is how they were designed like it or not. Why that picture I posted on page 1 (that Train has moved to this page) was put up by the vendor to give an idea on how to build them. It's not as hard as it looks after doing a couple of builds, easy after you've done a bunch of them for 8 Nuppin's.

FWIW I always try to keep my coil tails equal length, and by doing so my horizontal coils mounted low are NOT on an angle like those in the other picture Train posted. They are aligned parallel to and close to the deck edge by not just having the neg wire mounted straight up and down vertical like in the build picture. IOW it matters not what position the neg/pos atty connections end up as long as the coil itself is how you want it in relation to the deck edge and the atty's orientation on the 510 of the Reo is how you want it. The later before the adjustable 510's done via o-rings, with the adj 510's you can orient the atty on the Reo however you want it easily.

My high parallel coil builds on the Nuppin's are centered above the positive post aligned end to end with the neg holes, and that allows very near same length coil tails as well.

 

[AngiBe]

I think this atty is easy to build on but just weird looking to see the holes not lined up. I did a "normal" single parallel coil but did see those high parallel coils you did and may try that next.

 

[Spydro]

To me the high center parallel builds are often the best of all worlds in some of my atty's. The Nuppin's and Chalice II especially. Just keep in mind coil clearance with the top cap and DT if it's a metal one in your Nuppin' so you don't create a short. I actually have a couple of these builds that are up inside the Nuppin' top caps, but they are short protected by using wide bore Delrin slip fit DT's that insulate them from shorting to the top cap.

 

[SteamStack]

To me the high center parallel builds are often the best of all worlds in some of my atty's. The Nuppin's and Chalice II especially. Just keep in mind coil clearance with the top cap and DT if it's a metal one in your Nuppin' so you don't create a short. I actually have a couple of these builds that are up inside the Nuppin' top caps, but they are short protected by using wide bore Delrin slip fit DT's that insulate them from shorting to the top cap.

See any melting on that drip tip end? I normally say no to plastic. Sure I've got enough in my system from everything else.. last place I wana see it is in my lungs.

 

[AngiBe]

See any melting on that drip tip end? I normally say no to plastic. Sure I've got enough in my system from everything else.. last place I wana see it is in my lungs.

Always wondered about Derlin but I can't do metal . What kind do you use?

 

[Spydro]

See any melting on that drip tip end? I normally say no to plastic. Sure I've got enough in my system from everything else.. last place I wana see it is in my lungs.

No melting or other issues of any kind. The coils do not touch the Delrin by a fair sized gap between the coil/Delrin... it's just extra short insurance.

After what I've put in my lungs for most of my life with no issues of any kind at all because of it I don't sweat the small stuff for what little of it I have left.

 

[Papa_Lazarou]

I use a twisted 26g high centered "monocoil" in one of my Nup's just the way Spydro describes. I find them easier to build than regular parallels and once you get the leg orientation straight in your head I find them easier to work with than duals in this atty. Mind you, I haven't found a build that outright sucks in a Nup', so it's largely a case of going from 'great' to 'sublime'.

 

[SteamStack]

Always wondered about Derlin but I can't do metal . What kind do you use?

SS.. always have always will.

 

[Train2]

Mah 'Nuppins look great with a Loki router - and you can get a cerakote one, so it doesn't FEEL like metal. I also like the one's I learned about from Spydro - the nice tips for $10 from Synervape.

Always wondered about Derlin but I can't do metal . What kind do you use?

 

[Spydro]

^^^^^ Lookin' good Train...

That's all I run on my Nuppin's... Syner and Router DT's.

 

[tobarger]

I got me some Nuppins

 

[tobarger]

!!! And a brand new black one with a matching Router DT too !!!
Thanx x101

 

[TX Foilhead]

Question for the folks who have been around from the beginning. My most awesome dual twisted build in my V2 has finnaly been pulled, it's been on my daily driver since late July. I was having some leaking issues and figured it was time to strip it down for a complete cleaning and inspection so I could figure out what was going on. Unfortunately it looks like the top O ring on the base is done. So my new build will be on a V1, are there any differences? I can see that the flange is different and the insulator is black instead of white. Anything I should watch out for or do differently?

 

[Train2]

I find no diff in the build or vape between V1 and V2. Just that the "base plate" is there, so it stops the top from lowering below the base. This MIGHT be a good thing (preventing you from lowering the top so far that it shorts) or might be a detriment (if you like the lid down a little extra for an even smaller chamber. Made no difference to me...

I WILL mention - I had one start leaking, determined it was work o-rings, but I liked THAT one on THAT mod (black V2) - so I just swapped O-rings. If you like the V2 better, it's the same o-ring...you could move it. Just sayin'.

Question for the folks who have been around from the beginning. My most awesome dual twisted build in my V2 has finnaly been pulled, it's been on my daily driver since late July. I was having some leaking issues and figured it was time to strip it down for a complete cleaning and inspection so I could figure out what was going on. Unfortunately it looks like the top O ring on the base is done. So my new build will be on a V1, are there any differences? I can see that the flange is different and the insulator is black instead of white. Anything I should watch out for or do differently?

 

[TX Foilhead]

I thought about doing the, but I figured that I could use the down time to get center post clean. 4 months of constant use has left a fairly nasty layer of burnt gunk on it. I seem to be making some progress with the ultrasonic cleaner, I'm going to let it soak in Everclear over night and see what it looks like in the morning.

 

[Papa_Lazarou]

If you want to replace the o-ring, they're 10 x 1 mm.

 

[Spydro]

I've been here from the start as the OP that started this thread. On my 8 Nuppin's, both V1's and V2's, I removed the top o-rings and only use the bottom o-rings to hold the top caps on. There has been no bottom leak issues at all since doing so WAY back when. My top caps only come off to rewick about once in a coons age, so they and the AFC's tend to become as one that have found their leak free happy place. If the time ever does come that the o-rings need to be replaced, I have those taken off to do so with. So they ought to see me through to the end of the trail.

 

[Rossum]

4 months of constant use has left a fairly nasty layer of burnt gunk on it.

How hot/hard are you running? I don't get "burnt gunk" anywhere except on coils themselves.