OBS Engine NANO RTA

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Cosmic_Glaze

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I've been playing around with the most suitable coil setup by trying out SS wire instead of kanthal. Tried standard, twisted and ribbon SS316, am i correct to say that SS wires give cleaner flavor? I mean, from all 3 types i tried i couldn't taste the same throat hit as what i had with kanthal.

Btw, with your setup, can you advise how thick the cotton is? I've been doing 25mm dia. and just recently tried 30mm, however the vapor production just doesn't seem optimal compared to 25mm.

I actually just changed my whole set up on the Nano last night. I took some 400g Mesh. Rolled it and formed it to fit the wicking holes and cut it so it is just above the deck. 1/2 mm above. Now this gives me the ability to not have to stuff the cotton into the holes and I fluff the cotton all over the top area of the deck. The mesh does all the wicking while not choking the wick holes with cotton. 3mm ID coil.
I do the same thing with my Digiflavor Siren GTA but those mesh tubes are much longer due to the fact that the Siren is more of a Genny style atty but I used the same concept in the Nano.






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Cosmic_Glaze

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I don't have any pics of the Nano mesh wicks. It kind tough to even see the mesh in a pic. But scroll down on this page and you can see pics of the Siren. Same concept. Wicks amazing. Super easy and you don't have to worry about trimming cotton to fit the wick holes. The more the better for juice reserve for the coil.

Digiflavor Siren GTA
 
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hiclass

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I mean for 3mm (didn't realize that i typo-ed there). I'm using organic unbleached snuggly fit into the coil but the don't seem to be able to produce as much vapor.

It sounds like you are using the same wattage in both the Kanthal and SS cases... (Correct me if I have guessed it wrongly). With the same dimension, SS coil always have lower resistance than the Kanthal thus less heat and of course less vapor. May be you should set at higher power for SS coil.

My experience is, different mod handles coil in different optimal ohm range. e.g. my Smok H-priv mod can never handle a coil with less than .4ohm nicely. No matter how hard I try (setting different TCR), I always fail to run TC mode smoothly with this mod at lower than .4ohm. So, if your tank deck does not allow you to use a coil (particularly if you want it to be a space coil) with many wraps, chances is, your coil will be at lower resistance range and if your mod can't handle that ohm range accurately, that it is, you will have problem in getting good vaping experience with SS coil.
 

Cosmic_Glaze

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Well that's interesting, and i thought mesh is long gone. Do share a pic of your setup when you can :)
Mesh is back! Lol. At least on some of my tanks. I wanted to play around with it after seeing the Taifun BT. It uses steel cables to wick. Mesh does the same thing. When I went to my local B&M shop and asked for it they said "Nobody has asked for mesh in over 2+ years!"o_O I'll try to post up pics later.
 

sob80sup81

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It sounds like you are using the same wattage in both the Kanthal and SS cases... (Correct me if I have guessed it wrongly). With the same dimension, SS coil always have lower resistance than the Kanthal thus less heat and of course less vapor. May be you should set at higher power for SS coil.

My experience is, different mod handles coil in different optimal ohm range. e.g. my Smok H-priv mod can never handle a coil with less than .4ohm nicely. No matter how hard I try (setting different TCR), I always fail to run TC mode smoothly with this mod at lower than .4ohm. So, if your tank deck does not allow you to use a coil (particularly if you want it to be a space coil) with many wraps, chances is, your coil will be at lower resistance range and if your mod can't handle that ohm range accurately, that it is, you will have problem in getting good vaping experience with SS coil.
It sounds like you are using the same wattage in both the Kanthal and SS cases... (Correct me if I have guessed it wrongly). With the same dimension, SS coil always have lower resistance than the Kanthal thus less heat and of course less vapor. May be you should set at higher power for SS coil.

My experience is, different mod handles coil in different optimal ohm range. e.g. my Smok H-priv mod can never handle a coil with less than .4ohm nicely. No matter how hard I try (setting different TCR), I always fail to run TC mode smoothly with this mod at lower than .4ohm. So, if your tank deck does not allow you to use a coil (particularly if you want it to be a space coil) with many wraps, chances is, your coil will be at lower resistance range and if your mod can't handle that ohm range accurately, that it is, you will have problem in getting good vaping experience with SS coil.

You're right. Pardon my ignorance but i never tried to crank up the wattage after switching to SS.

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Cosmic_Glaze

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Try DJlsb vapes review on youtube. I believe that it breaks, but not sure. I haven't managed to yet. Why don't you just break off rest of glass?

That would be my suggestion as well. Smash the rest just don't bend the cage.


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Cosmic_Glaze

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There is the mesh wicks stuffed in the channels. Then I just lie the cotton on top of them right on the deck and around the juice channels.


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Major911

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My glass cracked this weekend and I'm having one hell of a time trying to get off the top to disassemble it. I've tried the freezer and pliers and still no dice.

Open the juice fill port and insert a small screwdriver or Allen wrench and use it as a lever to twist off the top portion.


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puffon

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    The base of my OBS Engine Nano is ohming out at 0.5-0.8 Ohm without a coil. I believe it started after I tried to burn off the crud from my stainless steel coil. Now my coils get about 25% of the energy that the mod is putting out, with 75% of it going through the base alone. Does anybody have any ideas how to fix this?
    I'd check for loose pieces of wire.
    Without a coil it should read as a open circuit.
     

    hittman

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    That is weird. Either there is wire or something shorting the posts or a bad insulator or something. If you can't figure it out then I'd just buy a new one. I think some places are selling them pretty cheap now.

    When you put the coil in, does it read correctly or does it add the deck resistance?
     
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    Ionori

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    That is weird. Either there is wire or something shorting the posts or a bad insulator or something. If you can't figure it out then I'd just buy a new one. I think some places are selling them pretty cheap now.

    When you put the coil in, does it read correctly or does it add the deck resistance?
    Live resistance with a coil is the same as without, as the coil has a higher resistance than the base, and it gets much less power (barely begins to glow before the 10s cutoff instread of glowing fully after 2 seconds).
     
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    hiclass

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    Live resistance with a coil is the same as without, as the coil has a higher resistance than the base, and it gets much less power (barely begins to glow before the 10s cutoff instread of glowing fully after 2 seconds).

    1. Check the 510 connector hole on your mod. Make sure it is dry, insert cotton into it to dry it if necessary.

    2. If you measure your tank ohm with a ohm meter, try measure it with your mod instead.
     

    Ionori

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    1. Check the 510 connector hole on your mod. Make sure it is dry, insert cotton into it to dry it if necessary.

    2. If you measure your tank ohm with a ohm meter, try measure it with your mod instead.
    Done, I wish that were the problem.

    Did you melt your PEEK insulator when you dry burned that SS coil?
    That may be the case, the insulator appears slightly thinner and browner at the rim of the deck. I wouldn't have thought it would melt during the short pulses I used. Assuming the short is happening on the surface of the deck, does anybody know a good way to add non-toxic insulation that's going to stay in place?
     
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