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More than double the resistance?
That's crazy
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That's crazy
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yes once the press fit positive pin wiggles just slightly loose and leg length has you wondering if coil is bad
the positive pin can still make contact even though it is loose
To much tension on the coil will loosen the positive pin
Ive had mine pop completely out just installing a coil
the positive pin can still make contact even though it is loose
To much tension on the coil will loosen the positive pin
Ive had mine pop completely out just installing a coil
It happened again yesterday afternoon and last night. First I wicked it with Rayon and it was vaping nicely for half an hour or so then went to crap on the way to work.
After work, I wicked with Cotton Bacon. The juice was sucking up juice through the airflow. Now it's vaping normally. I can't believe after having this tank for two months (or however long) I still don't know how to wick it :/ Sometimes I do a good job and sometimes I do a terrible job. I don't know what I'm doing differently.
Can you post a pic of a new wick before you put the tank together? I'd like to see what it looks like. I have only had flooding from my over-filling my 2 trying to squeeze too much liquid in them.
Well this tank is vaping good now. I filled up tonight and there was no flooding. I still get the occasional liquid sucking up though the mouthpiece. I'll post a picture of the coil and wick later today after hibernation.
That's a new coil wicked with Rayon. The coil is a 26 gauge SS316L with an ID of 3.5mm that came out at .5 ohms. I didn't thin the tails as much as I usually do. The tails are sitting on top of the holes. No flooding so far. The flavor is kinda meh but at least I'm not getting any juice coming up YET.
The coil build I had last night (very similar to what I'm currently using) with Cotton Bacon burned up. I was having some resistance changes in TC mode so I locked it. TC mode was set to 25 watts with the temperature at 450F. The mod is a Therion 166.
I read on some other forums that one should not lock the resistance in DNA mods. Maybe locking the resistance caused the destruction of the wick?
On mine I always thin the wick ends a little and have them thru the holes just touching the bottom of the base. Never any issues. What's your PG/VG ratio?
That's a new coil wicked with Rayon. The coil is a 26 gauge SS316L with an ID of 3.5mm that came out at .5 ohms. I didn't thin the tails as much as I usually do. The tails are sitting on top of the holes. No flooding so far. The flavor is kinda meh but at least I'm not getting any juice coming up YET.
The coil build I had last night (very similar to what I'm currently using) with Cotton Bacon burned up. I was having some resistance changes in TC mode so I locked it. TC mode was set to 25 watts with the temperature at 450F. The mod is a Therion 166.
I read on some other forums that one should not lock the resistance in DNA mods. Maybe locking the resistance caused the destruction of the wick?
Maybe the rayon needs to break in. If after a while the flavor is still meh, slightly angle cut it & tuck in the holes length of wick is up to you. Tidy up the fibers, smooth them down.
That's a new coil wicked with Rayon. The coil is a 26 gauge SS316L with an ID of 3.5mm that came out at .5 ohms. I didn't thin the tails as much as I usually do. The tails are sitting on top of the holes. No flooding so far. The flavor is kinda meh but at least I'm not getting any juice coming up YET.
The coil build I had last night (very similar to what I'm currently using) with Cotton Bacon burned up. I was having some resistance changes in TC mode so I locked it. TC mode was set to 25 watts with the temperature at 450F. The mod is a Therion 166.
I read on some other forums that one should not lock the resistance in DNA mods. Maybe locking the resistance caused the destruction of the wick?
i don't use rayon
but with cotton i have the coil lower
just to the top of the highest post hole
and depending on the juice
i use 70/30 VG/PG
i have the tails just inside the juice holes
i might get a tiny bit of spit back for the
first couple of hits
then none till the tank is empty
sometimes if you watts are not high enough for the
juice you are using you will get spit back
but with cotton i have the coil lower
just to the top of the highest post hole
and depending on the juice
i use 70/30 VG/PG
i have the tails just inside the juice holes
i might get a tiny bit of spit back for the
first couple of hits
then none till the tank is empty
sometimes if you watts are not high enough for the
juice you are using you will get spit back
I read on some other forums that one should not lock the resistance in DNA mods. Maybe locking the resistance caused the destruction of the wick?
I'm using 30 PG 70 VG. It's vaping very nicely now.
Locking the resistance on a DNA mod will disable the chips refinement ability. If you locked in a wrong (too high) resistance, there would be nothing to stop the coil from getting red hot when the wick went dry.
Speaking of DNA mods, do you know why I would get a slightly lower resistance reading in TC mode? It's reading the coil at .49 and I get very little vapor or flavor but in Power mode the coil is read at .51. Using the same wattage, I get a much better vape in Power mode. Increasing the wattage in TC mode doesn't help much.
This tank vapes fine in Power & TC modes on my Eleaf iPower 80 mod. Maybe I should just give up TC mode on the Therion 166. I've messed around with the settings in Escribe but I haven't had any luck so far.
I got kinda frustrated trying to run any of my mods in temp control and have switched to power mode in all of them except the ipv6.
The only one of my mods that do tc well is my Hohmtech Slice. Can you believe it's a $30 mod too.
I didn't pay much more than that for the ipv6. I think mid 30's. I'm a bit of a tightwad and never buy mods when they are new on the market. I have been kinda looking at the ijoy captain but I'm going to wait until the price drops before I even think about it. I tried doing temp control with the predator on my dual coil engine but the vape always felt too cool no matter how much I turned it up. Now I just run the same tank on it but at 32w.
Thanks guys. I thought it was just me. TC works great on my Eleaf iPower 80 mod and sometimes it's great on the Therion 166...but sometimes it's not. I used to always rebuild when it wouldn't work but now I'm just gonna use Power mode and enjoy my muddafuggin' vape.
Stainless Steel wire from different manufacturers can vary greatly and throw a real wrench into TC vaping. I use both the default Steam-Engine SS316L wire profile and the UD SS316L V4 wire profile. The UD settings are quite a bit warmer than the stock, so I tend to use it the most.
You can save the attached file, rename it to DNA200-UD-SS_316L V4.CSV and load it to your mod via the eScribe Material Tab.
Change the wire type in your current profile by holding Up, Down and Fire with the DNA locked. Then make sure your atty is cold, unscrew it, hit fire a few times to clear any previous resistance and screw your atty on. Hit fire and it should set the resistance, it might ask you to confirm a New Coil. Select Yes and you should be good to go.
I'd start with 50W and 420F, raising the temperature as required. I run SS all my TC vaping between 460F and 480F on all devices with the power depending on the coils installed. I usually run the power around 50W to 60W for single coils and 85W to 100W for dual builds.
I am not sure why the resistance is different in power and TC modes, my DNA's show that as well.
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