The full size 2.5 Ti is not as marketable as the 2.5 Ti mini ... the Ti minis were never sold on special like the regular 2.5 Ti was.
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I think it amounts to whatever makes you happy. I wasn't going to do it, but ended up purchasing another Ti P3 a few days ago, so now I've got 4 Ti P3s (3 silver and the stealth Ti). For a particular vaping style, they're awesome. I have Dicodes tubes that quite honestly do more (hello temp control, 60watts, far higher level of configurability than ProVari's, smaller form factor, the list goes on), but comparing the Dicodes tube to the Ti P3, is like a lead weight vs. a feather.While I'm a Ti nut, (P3, two 2.5s, and a Kabuki) I really pondered my last purchase. Even though my P3 350/Kabuki is my out-and-about mod, I decided against the P3. For $20 more, the Radius is so much more capable imo. I vape low wattage but the only thing I've learned for sure in my years vaping is never say never. If my style changes, the Radius will still be usable. Plus, I really like the feel and durability of the polycarbonate even though I thought it was a major drawback when the model was first introduced.
In fact I've almost decided I don't need 2 Ti 2.5s. But I have absolutely NO idea of what it's worth. I haven't seen one come up for sale in a long time. Is that because no one wants that "old" technology or because those who own one wouldn't think of letting it go?
I have both, so here is my take. The ML class ranks right up there with the Radius on build quality and is built like a tank. Being a solid mod, the weight reflects it as well. The ML is heavier than the Radius, but the feeling of weight doesn't bother me at all. The size fits my medium size hands perfectly and the ergonomics are superb.Question for you folks-
Im looking for a box mod that can last a lifetime. I fear that there will come a time when even the cheap chinese mods wont be able to get shipped or sold to the US. (Im already having some issues with vendors not wanting to ship coils, as well as paypal refusing to facilitate payment for them).
Eventually, my $30 chinese mods will stop working and I dont have the know how of putting together circuits, boards or chips to make my own. Money is an issue as I really cant afford the high end box mods, but I am willing to sacrifice a few meals since it will pay off in the long term. Here is the dilemma, I am a bit stuck between the SX Mini ml class and the Radius 60w.
Anyone have both that can chime in on your experiences and preference with either one? Watts are roughly the same. As for upgrades- Considering once you upgrade the Radius to the last update, it will no longer be a user upgradable mod so no real differnce there either. Im leaning towards the SX since it has a real temp control as opposed to "coil control", whatever that means.
I am aware that this is a Provape thread, but any objective thoughts between the 2 on effectiveness and durability?
Thank you! Weight may become a factor with my small female hands [emoji22] .I have both, so here is my take. The ML class ranks right up there with the Radius on build quality and is built like a tank. Being a solid mod, the weight reflects it as well. The ML is heavier than the Radius, but the feeling of weight doesn't bother me at all. The size fits my medium size hands perfectly and the ergonomics are superb.
Temp control is where the ML really shines. It already has built in settings for most coil materials such as stainless, nickel, titanuim etc., plus you can use the available software to fine tune temperature curves and just about any other factor you can think of. The ML uses Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) to control the temperature, which means that on occasion you can hear a 'rattle snake' effect, which doesn't bother me, but drives some people to distraction. I'll also mention that the ML Class mods are 'battery pigs'. On the plus, they do charge up quickly from a USB, but you will want a high quality 3000 mAh battery.
I guess that I'll come out of the closet and admit that I have two ML Class mods, as well as a Q Class and the latest SX Mini Q Mini, which I use in addition to my ProVari mods. If you are after temp control, the SX Minis are hard to beat, as are your better DNA mods. From the standpoint of a precision built, quality box mod, for non-temp control, the Radius is hard to beat.
The above may or may not help your decision, but I solved the dilemma by getting both. In reality, you can't go wrong with either mod.
...Of the SX series and DNA mods that you have, any favorites? (Highest wattage I vape is 45-50)
Well, I quess it is put up or shut up time for me.
Of the three DNA 40, three DNA 75 and one DNA 200 mods that I have, I find myself using the DNA 40 mods the most. The most I ever vape at is 30 Watts, so 40 Watts is just fine for me. The DNA mods that I have the most of are Vaporsharks, which all have stellar performance. The earlier DNA 40 boards were a little 'glitchy', but the later boards are fine. Be advised that the DNA 40 boards can't be adjusted on your computer, like the DNA 75, 133 and 200, however I never bother with that feature as the stock settings work just fine for me.
Favorite mods? Vaporshark DNA 40, Lost Vapes Skar DNA 75, ML Class SX Mini, SX Mini Q Mini and any ProVari tube mod. I like the Radius as well, but it is not the first mod I find myself reaching for, in all honesty.
I like my Radius more than my SX Mini M if that helps in any way. Easier to use, as tough and madenin USA (I am Canadian and don't really care, but many do).
The question is if 60w (or 40) will be enough way down the road IMO. That's why I have a few 200w mods and mechs.
Provape says that the regular P3 = 3.8oz and the Ti = 2.1oz. So, assuming you have a scale to weigh your battery, that's the answer.I'm just curious, can someone weigh a TI and a regular P3 with a battery in it to compare the two?
I'm sure. And the other reason for the Ti P3 is that I carried them at different times in the inside breast pocket of my jacket. The Radius always fell sideways. (Not a big deal since my Kabuki's never leak on their sides.) But, I didn't have to reach way down to retrieve my mod, since the GMZ P3 was just tall enough to stay upright. Silly I guess, but ergonomics.You will find the weight difference to be almost magical.
I absolutely love my P3s. Just added the Celtic Knot and it's just as pretty as I hoped it would be.
The finish of the GMZ is flawless but the feel of the stainless is so much better.
For now, I'm only topping them with the Kabuki.
View attachment 630281
nevermind! I read the bottom line and they are Kabuki's!What kind of tanks do you use? I like the way they look!
Received the P3 Provari Programmer today and would like to report that it works perfectly under Win 10.
It's beautifully made with high quality cables and connectors. As it advised, I plugged in the supplied thumb drive and installed the program to my PC. Connected the probe to the control box and then the control box my desktop PC. Took all the rings off my P3 and screwed on the P3 adapter, there it was in the PC screen.
Chose V41 and away it went. Finished and I put my P3 together again and sure enough, it's at V41! Worked so well, I did a couple more, so now all my P3s are at the same Revision.
All the above took maybe 5 minutes tops, so if you have some older P3 revs, the Programmer is well worth the money.
Glad to hear that. Got mine today...no thumb drive or instructions Opened ticket
Didn't get thumb drive or instructions with mine either. opened ticket
Question for you folks-
Im looking for a box mod that can last a lifetime...
Anyone have both that can chime in on your experiences and preference with either one?
Good news...got a reply from ProVape that provided a link for software download with instructions. Got it done and all P3's now updated Your ticket will be answered quickly.I guess you can add me to the list of peeps that got the programer without instructions or a thumb drive. Ticket opened...