Pretty big wart, huh? Wouldn't you need more than the 500-1000 mA most warts deliver?Could probably modify an innokin drv to work with a wart.
Pretty big wart, huh? Wouldn't you need more than the 500-1000 mA most warts deliver?Could probably modify an innokin drv to work with a wart.
Thanks, Mooch. I will surely be asking many more questions like this because I want to build some.I highly recommend using a standard DC-DC converter to bring down the voltage from a standard AC-DC power supply (sized for whatever wattage you'll be using). The OKR-T10 is a very popular converter being used for DIY projects and, IIRC, can get you up to 50W. You can use a 12V power supply, easily available everywhere, and adjust the voltage via a potentiometer (basically, a resistor with a knob to adjust its value) to create a VV mod. There are even box mod kits using the OKR-T10. You can go a lot higher than 10A though, easily to 30A, and a lot higher for a lot more money.
You could bring the voltage down via a voltage divider but the voltage you drop gets wasted as heat...a lot of heat.
Better to use a converter to adjust the voltage. Makes it easier to change voltages too as a VV mod might need tweaking for each coil you build unless they're very close in resistance.
You could also just use a DNA40 board with a 5V AC-DC power with its "trim" voltage adjust set to 4.2V or lower. Or, for those who need more power, a DNA200 board and a 12V power supply. You only need three tiny resistors to fool the board into thinking it's connected to three batteries. This way you get VV and VW control.
I don't disagree. LiPos merit care and attention. That said, it looks to me to be the wave of the future. A mod with more than 2 18650s in it gets pretty sizeable and heavy, and we're already pumping out about all the power those batts can provide. If you want more, or a smaller form factor, in a portable device-- not plugged into a ground station, I mean, so you're only holding a wand-- I don't see much in the way of options.I don't really like the idea of using lipos for vaping. However, that is for the more generic gear. Specifically the cheaper gear meant for those who just want a safe and easy vape. Those who have experience with lipos and have a decent respect for them - no worries. I know a few RC enthusiasts build their own mods with lipos in them.
Have to admit I'm a bit wary about using lipos myself. Even tho those are not for vaping. I just don't like charging and dealing with them even tho I do it in a safe-as-can-be manner. My IMR vaping batteries? Pfff... they don't get any luxury treatment.
Not sure as I am not even close to being a electric nerd. I am a math nerd.Pretty big wart, huh? Wouldn't you need more than the 500-1000 mA most warts deliver?
I can find crap like that all day. As an old amp builder/ electronics hobbiest Box style power supplies are awesome. .Sweeeeeeeeet.
Oh man that makes it way too easy.keep in mind that the sigelei 150 watt box for example, uses 3 batteries so the chip can accept 12volt input.
Ought to be able to vape 7 or 8 people at a time. I can see it now, 15 coil open air atty with a fan motor and a dozen chairs arranged around itOh man that makes it way too easy.
35000 mah at 400 amps anyone?
12 Volt, 35 Amp Hour Universal Battery
Hook one of these up to a solar panel outside your window and power your atty for ever. Love these batteries got two in the trunk, oddly enough they run a xtar charger, phone and tablet, so i dont kill my car battery lol
Edit: you guys are gonna get me started. Time to buy a box mod.............. now where did I put that soldering iron
Now that is a seriously cool idea. What are you powering it with?View attachment 468691
Here's a pic to illustrate how one of my wires is rigged up.
To use regular battery I use the battery on the left.
To plug in off the wall I rigged up a vamo tube with a bolt from the hardware store; drilled out a hole in a bottomcap to put the bolt through; used rubber washers to insulate positive and negative View attachment 468692
this pic is to show more closely the part that simulates the battery.
What is not so obvious is I used dome rubber washers on that biggest metal washer to insulate the washer from the bolt.
The dome washers are the ones you get for regular pipes/faucets; flat on one side and domeshaped on the other side so that it compresses when you screw down on it