PhenomenoN our New RBA only from GUS

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Grrrr

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@aiolos two people have mentioned wanting an Artemis to me. I like having something special and limited, but maybe another run? I think it would be good for your business to consider. Thank you.
I think Qorax mentioned in his review that they would be on the GUS site and available for those that want one.
 

Mtek

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I think Qorax mentioned in his review that they would be on the GUS site and available for those that want one.

That makes me happy for the buyers and Gus business. For my own selfishness and elitism, I hope they get a standard button cap though. Lol
 

anavidfan

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It seems like mechs are going to have to find a special "niche" at least for now. The market is changing so much and right now its box reg devices.

I think Mechs will always have a place and if the E-cig industry goes real hard on us, at least our mechs should be there forever.

I kinda hope he does not make more, because it takes away from those who bought it as something really special.
 

Mtek

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Hope I can get some advice from you Gus pros here. I have an Estia 510 incoming. Would the Gus brass rings work with it on his site? It says for hybrid Estia on description. I'm wanting to get an order together and include these trim rings in matte brass for Artemis. Any advice helpful,and appreciated. I did PM Aiolos, but I'm impatient lol.
 

LilZ

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I Don't know I can say this since I wasn't even one who got a Artemis. I think Gus shouldn't make more. There is something to paying more and getting into that club where you have something that everybody else on the street doesn't have. I would like that and I do belong to one of those clubs. I have a limited edition Ford F-250 Harley Davidson edition truck. They charge an extra 9000 for that package. Its a 2004 model but still, it was the first year they made them in the 250 size trucks. I say the same should go to Gus stuff when he comes up with an idea that is above and beyond his normal really good ideas. Most people are really happy with those. What I understand by looking at Qorax video you can get close to a Artemis, Just not the Artemis.
 

anavidfan

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As nice as the idea of coated brass is, avoid it.

I collect a lot of vintage lamps, sextants, etc. Coating is a nightmare. Great for short term buys, but many a great item gets ruined and ends up costing time and money to get that coating off.

What happens is that eventually the coating wears off and very unevenly. It starts to patina where the coating is worn, then it starts to spread under the coating. It is very ugly eventually and you cant clean under the coating. Also, it will start to peel, you've all seen those cheap auto window tint jobs?

So for something like this, please dont , its so easy to keep up. I understand about the smell. Reason I dont use my 1 brass mod as often. You get used to it and if you clean it often , then its not noticeable.

Sorry, if I sound so "alarmist" I just would not want you to ruin something so special.
 

Kruzer00

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Top cap of Estia in brass is what I need right now. Is there anyway one could safely have it plated a matte brass color?
If you have a local mall with a plating guy at a stand in the middle of the mall (common in the US) it will cost you less than $20 for just about anything and it does work. I don't know if they do brass though.


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Grrrr

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Top cap of Estia in brass is what I need right now. Is there anyway one could safely have it plated a matte brass color?

I did a bit of googleing and found this:

"If you want to do the brass plating on stainless steel first you have to do nickel strike plating then you go for the brass plating. Nickel strike bath contains nickel chloride and hydrochloric acid. generally nickel strike plating takes 2-5 min." known as "Woods Nickel Strike"

and

"If you want good brass finishing, after strike nickel plating you have to bright nickel plate, then go for brass plating"

and

"
Stainless steels form oxides on the surface which help protect them from corroding but also prevent good adhesion. When you plate stainless steel, removal of these oxides prior to plating is the most critical step.

There are a number of procedures that are commercially used to prepare stainless steel surfaces for plating. One method is to treat the parts in 20–50 percent sulfuric acid at 65–80°C for at least one minute after gassing starts. Another method is to treat cathodically in 5–50 percent hydrochloric acid at room temperature and a current density of 0.20 ASF. Beware that this process generates large amounts of hydrogen, however. Nickel anodes are recommended.

Another alternative is to cathodically treat the parts in a solution containing approximately 120 g/L of a powdered acid and some fluorides. A temperature of 40–50°C and carbon anodes are recommended, and a current density of 0.20 ASF is usually used.

The best method by far and the most foolproof is a Wood’s nickel strike. One formulation (there are many given in the literature) consists of 45 g/L of nickel in 10 percent by volume of commercial hydrochloric acid. The nickel is added as nickel chloride, and the bath is normally used at 10–40 ASF at room temperature for 30 sec to 2 min. Nickel anodes are used, and nickel content will increase over time. The nickel concentration should be monitored with 90 g/L as the upper limit. The process steps are: anodically clean, rinse, activate with the Wood’s nickel strike, rinse rapidly and plate."
 

Kruzer00

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Listen to Grrr. He 's done the research. [emoji106] I have I idea whether the mall guys do brass (highly doubtful based on Grrr's post) but I had good luck re-plating a cheap piece of gold jewelry with sentimental value.


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