Printed Mechanical Bottom Feeder Mod

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RSZ1

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Peko parts incoming! Ordered from Sculpteo on June 10, received shipping notice this morning that it should arrive Monday. I used the economy option and shipped in 8 days. Not bad, and I got black too.

Now I just have to get over the $25 for shipping the rest of the kit parts and order them.
 

Walter Ego

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Peko parts incoming! Ordered from Sculpteo on June 10, received shipping notice this morning that it should arrive Monday. I used the economy option and shipped in 8 days. Not bad, and I got black too.

Now I just have to get over the $25 for shipping the rest of the kit parts and order them.

Live Wire mods has the parts kit for $31.99 and shipping is $3.00.
Live Wire Mods
Oops I just noticed your in Canada, sorry.
 
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Moxienator

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Curiously, after my last string of posts, the uneven wick drying has continued. I've tried everything. In my full mech peko, I replaced the 510 jack and vented screw (Threaded into the delrin this time!!!), steel wooled all three solder tabs and brass parts, scrubbed the threaded rod with a wire brush, cleaned most parts that don't come in contact with juice with contact cleaner and hit all contacts with deoxit gold (I know it says it's for gold contacts, but it can't hurt right?) everything has been re-assembled tight and right. I even changed out the atomizer (and thus, the flavor) to my 3rd derringer which was brand spankin' new. I eventually soldered one of the small nuts onto the positive solder tab so it would be easier to disassemble/reassemble and in theory remove one possible (albeit small) variable.

The coils have been changed numerous times. I make them all the same way using the artists' coil jig with a custom arm. I've been using the same coil builds for more than six months. They are carefully "broken in" and they are as centered and even as I can possibly make them. They light up evenly when dry burned. They produce an even amount of vapor when the top cap and afc are removed. The vapor production is as good as my little tensioned, 6/7 wrap, 5/64" ID, 29 gauge, ~ 1.3R (0.6 - 0.7R total) coils can put out. Six coil changes have produced the same result, each time on the same side of the RDA. I know its not the RDA, because after I couldn't fix the first one, I removed and thoroughly cleaned it, then installed the brand-new Derringer 3.1. the problem continues...

One wick still gets dry before the other.

SO.... I throw on some SMXdrifter (Russ) on youtube and watch some random video about some random topic. He brings up air hole positioning. He notes that when a dual coil RDA is installed, and the air holes (and thus the coils) are positioned so that the are facing the sides of the mod (as mine were), it causes liquid to pool into one side of the well based on how you hold your mod when you vape. Strangely, the coil that is pointing downward is the coil that has been staying saturated. He suggested canting the RDA so that the holes are horizontal when you are actually vaping. When he was having the same issue as I am, he reported that this solved it. So I re-install my Derringer so that it is canted. seems to be slightly better, but only a few sessions will really tell.

I'll keep you guys posted. I'm planning on doing some wire-modding (I finally found a wire mod/switch spring combo I like) to this one, based on the fact that my backup peko with wires does not have this issue. I can't think of anything else I can do to alleviate the situation.

Has anyone else experienced anything like this with their peko?
 

gdeal

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RickCain

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A couple of people have asked questions on placement of the long nut in the button. If the nut is not placed properly in the hexagon recess in the button, it may effect the button throw and ability for the firing pin to make easy contact with the battery. A key assembly process is to make sure the nut is flush in the recess and the nut threads are not skewed. One way I check for this is to press fit the nut in to the hex recess and then screw the firing pin a couple of turns. Just by looking at the screw and rotating the button you can easy determine if the nut is placed properly. If its not centered you will see the screw go to an angle as you turn it. If it is on an angle, adjust it straight. Once its perfectly straight. I then put a very small drop of CA around the outside of the nut. Use very little so the CA doesnt work its way inside the threads to the screw (very important) Once the initial CA is dry, I remove the screw and then place a bit more CA on the outside of the nut next to the button just for extra hold.

This is one of the most important steps in the build.

The instructions on live wire should be updated with the information in this thread, it will save many people from having so many problems with the fire button (myself included).



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gdeal

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gdeal

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RickCain

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Thank you gdeal! I wish I would have followed the new instructions before ruining the buttons and nut ;)

Sorry if I sound like a PITA, the 26650 addendum leaves things unanswered. For one, the positive bolt doesn't install anything like the 18650 and there is a ton of excess material in the hole (required drilling out) which threw me for a loop. Pictures of an actual mod in addition to the render would really help future builders.

Not sure if I am alone but my 26650 button will not fire unless the top cap is not installed in its final place. If I assemble and don't place the top piece in the notch, it will work. The minute it is all together it is like the button isn't aligning properly. I've sanded tried to free it up with no success.

I'd feel better if someone with a Sculpto 26650 V2.2 print has been able to get the button to fire once all the pieces are in their place.
 

gdeal

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RickCain

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I've canibalized mine to the point I had to order a new set of buttons and top along with a new hardware kit (tried use go from the solder lugs connecting to a piece of 18g wire).

If you compare the image on page 15, the 26650 is totally different. I had to drill out the hole as there was too much build up to allow the long bolt to pass through. No big deal but could stump people.

Here is mine.
e43ac387dddd9f46440b8b60f4a61746.jpg


Here are the instructions.
3dd6487c32fd56a5ee2a71dfc598483a.jpg



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gdeal

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muzichead

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I received a new build kit from Live Wire today and rebuilt the top end of my 26650. I would first like to commend whomever it was that replaced the little hex head screw with a cheese head. Much easier to work with. I replaced the FD510 in it as well as I was having some leaking and not sure it was from that and didn't want to have to take it back apart if it started leaking again.

What I did different this time around was I put an o-ring between the top cap and the 3/8" solder lug and then put the brass nut on and tightened it down. I think this will help make a better seal and curb any leaking for one, and also it moved the lugs down about 1-2mm from where they would normally set in place. My switch now is making better contact with the battery and not angled like it was before.
 

RickCain

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I received a new build kit from Live Wire today and rebuilt the top end of my 26650. I would first like to commend whomever it was that replaced the little hex head screw with a cheese head. Much easier to work with. I replaced the FD510 in it as well as I was having some leaking and not sure it was from that and didn't want to have to take it back apart if it started leaking again.

What I did different this time around was I put an o-ring between the top cap and the 3/8" solder lug and then put the brass nut on and tightened it down. I think this will help make a better seal and curb any leaking for one, and also it moved the lugs down about 1-2mm from where they would normally set in place. My switch now is making better contact with the battery and not angled like it was before.

Can you post some pics? I think it would help many building one. :thumb:
 

muzichead

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Can you post some pics? I think it would help many building one. :thumb:
I will try to take a few. It's all put together right now and not real keen on taking it back apart, but will see what I can do. It has been working very well all day. I have been using it almost exclusively today.
 
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muzichead

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I will try to do something but it may take a few days. We had a tornado that came through town tonight and I am in for a lot of cleanup. Half a tree came down onto the carport and my truck it trapped inside. From what I can see there is no real damage done to the truck, but the carport is demolished. The branch was 1000+ lbs and have no idea how it didn't smash the truck. Only thing I can think of is the top supports kept it from doing so. Gonna take a couple days to get it out of there. The tornado missed our property by a mere 2 blocks to the west. This is the 2nd in 1 1/2 yrs for our town now.... I certainly hope its the last for quite a while!!!
 
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IonMan

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I will try to do something but it may take a few days. We had a tornado that came through town tonight and I am in for a lot of cleanup. Half a tree came down onto the carport and my truck it trapped inside. From what I can see there is no real damage done to the truck, but the carport is demolished. The branch was 1000+ lbs and have no idea how it didn't smash the truck. Only thing I can think of is the top supports kept it from doing so. Gonna take a couple days to get it out of there. The tornado missed our property by a mere 2 blocks to the west. This is the 2nd in 1 1/2 yrs for our town now.... I certainly hope its the last for quite a while!!!

Hopefully your not in coal city, those guys got creamed over there. Same tornado passed us by down near kankakee with minimal damage (thank god)

glad to hear you (and your truck) are ok. And here's to some quiet weather for a few years... a decade our two would be nice
 

muzichead

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Yup, we are in Coal City and right across the field from the high school where the tornado touched down. A little too close for comfort and the neighborhood behind me got slammed pretty hard. They are classifying it as a EF-3 and I think there was 1372 homes that were effected by this tragedy. Like I said, this is the 2nd one in like 18 months to hit us. The last was Nov. 2013... I think they said the path of this one stretched 16 miles long and 3/4 of a mile wide after it hit the ground. Thankfully there were no tragedies at all and only like 5 people that were sent to the hospital with injuries. They just started letting outsiders in yesterday for the major part of the cleanup from this. It is going to take quite some time for some to recover from all this. I agree with you in that we could use a break in the action from mother nature...

Here's a link to some footage from NBC Chicago taken the next morning... Aerial Footage Shows Damage in Coal City | NBC Chicago
 
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Alexander Mundy

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It is my understanding that since G has "shops" on Sculpteo and Shapeways, and that Livewire uses these services to sell the prints and assembled mods, and has contact with Livewire he has been declared an commercial affiliate. While my understanding is that G makes no profit from 3D prints or Livewire, however apparently an Affiliate does not have to profit monetary. I have been wrong before and could be wrong here but that is my grasp. Right or wrong, decisions by moderators and staff are not debatable on the forum so please no negative comments about policy or Moderators as that will only result in more deleted posts and possible sanctions against the poster per ECF rules.

"c. Employees of a vendor or any person commercially affiliated with a vendor are not permitted to discuss/advertise the business or products of the vendor."

"b. The Forum Officials reserve the right to edit, move, delete or close any message or thread for any reason. In the event of any dispute the decision of the Administrators is final.
c. The Forum Officials reserve the right to remove, edit or suspend any user account at their discretion. There is no right of appeal."
 
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junquedujour

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It is my understanding that since G has "shops" on Sculpteo and Shapeways, and that Livewire uses these services to sell the prints and assembled mods, and has contact with Livewire he has been declared an commercial affiliate. While my understanding is that G makes no profit from 3D prints or Livewire, however apparently an Affiliate does not have to profit monetary. I have been wrong before and could be wrong here but that is my grasp. Right or wrong, decisions by moderators and staff are not debatable on the forum so please no negative comments about policy or Moderators as that will only result in more deleted posts and possible sanctions against the poster per ECF rules.

"c. Employees of a vendor or any person commercially affiliated with a vendor are not permitted to discuss/advertise the business or products of the vendor."

"b. The Forum Officials reserve the right to edit, move, delete or close any message or thread for any reason. In the event of any dispute the decision of the Administrators is final.
c. The Forum Officials reserve the right to remove, edit or suspend any user account at their discretion. There is no right of appeal."
wow. now i gots the sads.
 
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