This is a known issue with the 20. They improved on this with the 30 and 50 in that now the center pin is spring loaded, so you don't have the issue of the center pin losing contact.
Problem wit ELeaf iStick 50W
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This is a known issue with the 20. They improved on this with the 30 and 50 in that now the center pin is spring loaded, so you don't have the issue of the center pin losing contact.
Hi folks, new here and just saw this thread and wanted to share my experience with the eleaf 50w real quick. Bought a blue one 2-3 weeks ago from local vape shop. 2 days ago after getting off work I went to turn it on and it wouldn't work. No LED at all. I thought maybe a button was stuck and drained the battery or something. After getting home I put it on the charger and it still had no LED. Tried turning it on several times. Finally the charging indicator came on. I thought I was in the clear. After about 3 hrs later I went to check on it again and the indicator was still flashing but showed no progress. I unplugged it and the indicator still flashed and wouldn't stop.
I took it back to the vape shop and I could tell they were a bit disappointed when I showed them what was going on. No questions asked and they offered to replace it but didn't have the blue one there..they said they could get it from another store and to come back the following day. Which I did. I was told that they no longer have a blue one in stock in any of the stores and that they had too many returns of the iStick 50w and were not ordering more or going to keep any in stock anymore.
All they had left was the red(pinkish) one which they exchanged for me. I'm not feeling too warm and fuzzy about this product so if anyone could suggest a good regulated box mod (at least 50w) that is dependable regardless of price I'd appreciate it.
I took it back to the vape shop and I could tell they were a bit disappointed when I showed them what was going on. No questions asked and they offered to replace it but didn't have the blue one there..they said they could get it from another store and to come back the following day. Which I did. I was told that they no longer have a blue one in stock in any of the stores and that they had too many returns of the iStick 50w and were not ordering more or going to keep any in stock anymore.
All they had left was the red(pinkish) one which they exchanged for me. I'm not feeling too warm and fuzzy about this product so if anyone could suggest a good regulated box mod (at least 50w) that is dependable regardless of price I'd appreciate it.
Same here.
After 2 times charging it was dead. No screen, nothing. Asked for replacing and will get a new one. Today I tried to open it but at first 5 klicks and its working!
Dont know why or how long it will work.
Its also a blue one, hmmmm!
After 2 times charging it was dead. No screen, nothing. Asked for replacing and will get a new one. Today I tried to open it but at first 5 klicks and its working!
Dont know why or how long it will work.
Its also a blue one, hmmmm!
I've got a blue 30 and a blue 50, all over several months old now. Still working like a charm.
Regardless of the price?
SX Mini.
It ain't cheap, but it's very reliable and puts out up to 60W.
Thanks so much for the suggestion...I'm adding this to my comparison list for sure....thanks again
Yeah, strange that my local shop had a bunch of returns on these..They said they've had no issues with the 30's or 20's. There are a few other shops in the area that sell them, I may stop in ask if they've had any/many returns..
I haven't been vaping long but have been going hard trying all sorts of styles and specs, Kangers seem to clash a bit with my istick 50w but I think it just gets confused and reads the resistance wrong, as it says no atomizer present aftera kanger crash but try the aspire atomizers with the eleaf they work great, I love my eleaf istick 50watt with its informative display and tweaking I have learn't a lot of personal knowledge as there are so many variables to the whole vaping experience combining data from the mod and variant PG/VG/nic and flavours to learn about TH's clouds, flava and satisfaction - I can see this is the beggining of a long journey of infinite pleasures involving the senses, brain chemistry and society as a whole. My first mod was an innokin vv/vw 3 with a K1 aspire glassomizer which gives u good draw while the display on the battery also allows for a feel of reading stats u can tweak though not as extensive as the istick but less expensive, a great begginers tool which I started vaping with a year or so ago .... enjoy
The SX Mini has already been replaced by the SX Mini M Class. It has an updated YiHi SX350 chip which adds temperature control with nickel coils just like the DNA40. Those just started becoming available this week. It uses a single 18650 battery, so the battery capacity depends on the battery you choose. 18650 batteries are available from 2100 mah all the way up to 3500 mah.
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Two weeks ago I got an Eleaf iStick 50w. I started using my Nautilus Aspire with it and it worked absolutely fine. Couple days ago I got an Arctic sub tank and used the 0.5 coil. At first it worked fine as well, but I switched the tanks around (the arctic was very different to get used to). When I put the arctic back on my istick it was reading 0.0 ohms. Unscrewing the tank the ohms started changing, so it's like 75% screwed in and showing between .3 & .7 ohms. Other tanks work fine though. I'm confused as to how the Arctic started acting this way. I am used to the Arctic and like it but I would like it to be screwed in completely.
Any advice on how to fix, or if there is a fix? Should I put in a new coil? I'm fairly new to mods and using sub ohm tanks.
Sorry for long post, thanks in advance for any help!
Brian
I got the silver 50w Eleaf and liked it so much that I got the pink 50w eleaf also. Both are from different vendors and so far both have worked perfectly with both my Kanger Subtank, kanger mini and my Tobh RDA. All my coils have been about .5 ohms. I guess I have been lucky. I hope I continue to have luck because so far I have been loving both of them and put aside my mechs.
You DO realize they are almost $200 right?
Which would probably be about $325 before it actually got to you in Australia.
You want one That Bad??
Bruce in Ocala, Fl
I must be one of the unlucky ones. I've had my istick 50 now for a few days. Have had nothing but problems with it from the start. Intermittent things like this. Losing power to the coil halfway through a hit. Some vapes, coil doesn't fire at all. Unit turns itself off by itself requiring me to turn it back on again. Unit changes display from watts to volts all by itself. No error messages of any kind. I've vaped with it on a Nautilus at ranges from 8-14 watts and a Atlantis from 20-30 watts. Needless to say all these issues have caused a lot of irritation when just trying to get a good vape. I'm now in the process of having a replacement sent to me. Hopefully I get a good one next time. I sure hope so cause I really like the unit when it works right. On a good note, the site where I bought it is working with me and sending me another one before requiring me to send this one back. That's a good thing. Man I hate it when something doesn't work right!
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Oh boy. Maybe should have read this first - just bought a 50 after months (?) of trouble free use of my two 30's. So far so good, but fingers crossed. I really want the 50 to work well as I got it for the extended battery life.
I'm having the exact same issue. No problems in the three months I have had my 50W, suddenly I get a no atomizer error with all atomizers. I messed with the pin, locked and unlocked it a few times and it came back, but the ohms read too high and continuously jump around, so I have to use it in voltage mode only, exact same issue with subtank, dripper, protank and evod. Unfortunately I can't remember where I ordered it from, and obviously have no proof of purchase.
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