Protank Cotton Rebuild, the way I do it

Discussion in 'Clearomizers' started by metalhed73, Sep 3, 2013.

Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.
Image has been removed.
URL has been removed.
Email address has been removed.
Media has been removed.
  1. metalhed73

    metalhed73 Full Member

    Joined:
    Aug 1, 2013
    Location:
    United States
    Seen a lot of questions regarding rebuilding protank/evod/every clone that takes them heads. So i figured I would post up my process and what I have learned so far.

    What you will need:
    20130903_111357.jpg

    Disassemble the head:
    20130903_111457.jpg

    Wrap the coil on the drill bit:
    20130903_111842.jpg

    Put Coil in the head:
    20130903_111924.jpg

    Insert rubber insulator and bottom pin, remember one wire out side the insulator and one through, then insert pin:
    20130903_112147.jpg
     
  2. metalhed73

    metalhed73 Full Member

    Joined:
    Aug 1, 2013
    Location:
    United States
    Pull Some cotton off of the ball, you really don't need much:
    20130903_112247.jpg

    Roll the cotton into a thin wick with one end tapered to make it easier to thread through the coil:
    20130903_112327.jpg

    Thread through the coil until you encounter resistence enough to move the coil instead of sliding cotton through (this would be the time to make final adjustments to the coil if needed):
    20130903_112427.jpg

    Trim Cotton:
    20130903_112517.jpg

    Insert chimney and slide on rubber grommet:
    20130903_112605.jpg



    At this point all you need to do is let it soak in a tank for a few minutes (doesn't take long with cotton) and enjoy the clean flavor of cotton.

    Some side notes:

    If you are getting gurgling or flooding at first give it some time before you consider adding any cotton flavor wicks to stop it, the cotton will expand as it completely soaks.

    Do not over compress the cotton to get it small enough to thread in, if you do it will expand in the coil and can choke off some of the wicking causing dry hits and poor performance.

    Never dry burn cotton, if flavor is tapering off do the following:

    gently pull wick out of coil
    dry burn coil (careful 32awg Kanthal will break if heated to much)
    roll new wick with above technique
    insert new wick
    soak and vape

    Edit: I realize the rubber grommet is not on the last pic but I do put it on and have not had any issues.
     
  3. retired1

    retired1 Curmudgeon Admin Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Supporting member
    Joined:
    Apr 5, 2013
    Location:
    Canada
    What's the average resistance after the rebuild?
     
  4. ericsp

    ericsp Senior Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2013
    Location:
    NY
    I have been using cotton for my rewicking. What am I doing wrong, the atomizer continually drips on to the post of my ego twist?

    I also have the Evod have no issues rebuilding or leaking or what you call flooding?
     
  5. metalhed73

    metalhed73 Full Member

    Joined:
    Aug 1, 2013
    Location:
    United States
    1.8ohms average

    The amount of cotton is the difference between flooding (gurgling sound and poor atomizer performance) and good performance.

    If it is leaking through to the battery connector you either don't have the "chimney" seated all the way or your head is not screwed into the tank base all the way. Also make sure the rubber insulator is in the correct way and seated all the way into the coil head.
     
  6. ericsp

    ericsp Senior Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2013
    Location:
    NY
    Whats the size of the drill bit?
     
  7. metalhed73

    metalhed73 Full Member

    Joined:
    Aug 1, 2013
    Location:
    United States
    Sorry it is hard to see in the picture but it is a 5/64" drill bit
     
  8. kkanix

    kkanix Full Member Verified Member

    Joined:
    Jul 28, 2013
    Location:
    Athens, Greece
    This is the best and easiest way to rebuild the head I have followed so far! I am a newbie but have tested building using 2mm Silica and 3mm Ekowool and although my first one from each were really good ones, cannot compare them to the cotton made.
    It has to do with someone's experience for sure but using this process I built 5 heads in just 10 minutes, could not believe it, all at average 1,8ohms, looking and working perfect.
    The taste of my liquids are better than ever!
    I do not have so thick drill bit but I believe that anything that can "just" fit in the head spaces can be used, I am using a piece of rounded pc psu power cable and it works.
    Was thinking to use also SS mesh before but thanks to you Metalhed I can stay with cotton - fast made - and really working ones!

    Also I was going to ask your vaping style and after how many days do you need to rebuild but who cares! It's a 2 minutes job! :D
     
  9. metalhed73

    metalhed73 Full Member

    Joined:
    Aug 1, 2013
    Location:
    United States
    My protanks are travelers I usually rock a rda or genesis at home, thanks for the kind words most of my technique has been cobbled together off of this forum so I certainly can't take all the credit.

    If I am vaping heavy I might have to replace the wick once every 2-3 weeks and coil on twice that interval. I have about 7 heads and when I load my last good one I rebuild them all.

    sent in a scroll hidden in a .45acp hollow point
     
  10. Krazirob

    Krazirob Super Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Joined:
    Sep 12, 2010
    Location:
    Cameron, NC
    ill have to try it that way.....i tried wrapping the wire around the cotton and got it too tight which gave me dry burns......so i just stuck with silica wick.....but i will try this on my next rebuild.....thanks
     
  11. newvap4me

    newvap4me Full Member Verified Member

    Joined:
    Jul 23, 2013
    Location:
    Pasadena, CA, USA
    Hi metalhead73

    I am new to rebuildables and seen your post. Really great info. I am going to try using cotton once I understand rebuildables a little more.
    I posted a question yesterday but did not get many responses. You seem to have a lot of knowledge so maybe you can help me answer some of them.

    What type of Ekowool should I use hollow or braided?
    What diameter is good 1, 2, or 3?

    What gauge Kanthal wire, 32?
    Is it better to use Kanthal Ribbon?

    What type of stainless steel mesh, 316?
    Is 400 or 500 better?

    Thanks for any advice you can give.
     
  12. metalhed73

    metalhed73 Full Member

    Joined:
    Aug 1, 2013
    Location:
    United States
    newvap4me,

    I have no experience with Ekowool so I am no good on help there, if it is similar to silica 2mm would be good from protank heads.

    32awg kanthal for regulated devices (other than DNA20 devices) 28awg for mechanical devices of mirco coils on regulated. Have only played a little bit with ribbon but have found that as a beginner you should stick with round because it is easier to work with.

    Mesh density is to me all about the thickness of the juice (VG/PG) high VG use coarse mesh like 325 or 400 for higher PG juice use finer mesh.
     
  13. newvap4me

    newvap4me Full Member Verified Member

    Joined:
    Jul 23, 2013
    Location:
    Pasadena, CA, USA
    thanks metalhead73
    I should have asked you this earlier but just thought of it now. For the protank rebuild how do you separate the chimney from the atomizer?
    do you use pliers? I have tried removing the chimney before but it seemed really tight and did not end up doing it because I was afraid to damage the atomizer. Hope this question doesn't sound stupid.

    Thanks again.
     
  14. metalhed73

    metalhed73 Full Member

    Joined:
    Aug 1, 2013
    Location:
    United States
    I can pull it off by hand (with the aid of a towel) just wiggle it back in forth until it comes out. If it is really stuck you can slide a drill bit or small screwdriver through the wick slots and pry it out.
     
  15. mgmrick

    mgmrick Ultra Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Joined:
    Sep 12, 2010
    Location:
    New York
    No right or wrong way but whatever way works for you.

    I probably use 3 times as much cotton and roll it between my fingers and thread it into the coil while its outside of base.

    I do not use the rubber on air tube and zero dry hits vaping at 8 watts

    No leaks... just another idea to try
     
  16. sawtoothscream

    sawtoothscream Ultra Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Joined:
    Apr 26, 2013
    Location:
    United States
    thats how I do it, think 4 wraps of kanthal is 1.8 ohm area. I just found a drill bit that fit the slot the best and went with that.
     
  17. metalhed73

    metalhed73 Full Member

    Joined:
    Aug 1, 2013
    Location:
    United States
    have not had a reason to remove the rubber grommet thus far, of course as I said my protanks are my work/travel tanks so I rarely chain vape them which may explain why I have never had to remove the grommet.

    Appreciate the input, no matter how much I think I know I always find there is more to learn.
     
  18. BobC

    BobC Reformed Squonker Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Supporting member
    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2013
    Location:
    Park Slope, Brooklyn, NY
    Curious, without the rubber grommet, what stops juice flow to the tip?
    I've posted a few on this method as well, and am in love with cotton on this (the mini), but I'm using 30 Kanth, with 8-10 wraps on either a QTip stick or 5/64 drill bit, both the vape and flavor are fantastic
     
  19. mgmrick

    mgmrick Ultra Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Joined:
    Sep 12, 2010
    Location:
    New York
    It does not.... and wicks great for hv vaping

     
  20. phanatic4ever

    phanatic4ever Full Member Verified Member

    Joined:
    Aug 14, 2012
    Location:
    Antioch, CA, USA
    I understand that one needs organic cotton. Where do you get it and do you boil the cotton before use?
     
Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.

Share This Page