Protank MicroCoil Discussion!!

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MacTechVpr

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@mhertz
I find that with a tmc, I can get the same performance at a lower wattage. Let's say with a standard coil I run it at 30w. With a tmc I find I get similar vapor production, throat hit, and flavor running 16 or 17w. And I get longer wick and coil life.

Short Answer: More wick, more flow potential and power may be applied. More vapor, more flavor. Use a t.m.c., more efficiency and overall vaporization rate to make use of that thicker wick.

Lifted from the post Tensioned Micro Coils. The next step. | Post 1280 for more info.

30 seconds to a ridiculously wonderful vape…and it's all right here on this thread.

Good luck all.

:)

 

MacTechVpr

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Lifted from the thread Tensioned Micro Coils. The next step. | Post #1640 | E-Cigarette Forum where you can learn where your Subtank singles can go!

How about some tensioned improv's crew? Just the real thing tho. Like this double-barrel, split-S, bunny ears or whatever we're callin 'em these days…


Dbl Barrel Quad, Nextel Velocity-mini
22x2 10/9 2.778mmØ=0.2972Ω
46.06-59.35W (12.45-14.13A) 85-110 mW/mm²

Strain's kept this honey goin' over a year and can't get my bud to give it up despite constant offers. Routine wash and low power dry burn of tensioned Nextel installs helps maintain the integrity of even high watt builds. Strain just lets you get a lot more production out of lower power as in this case. Translation? The vape just tastes better and lasts longer.

Practical joy for the rest of us.

Good luck. :)
 

MacTechVpr

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Been seeing much talk about not using factory coils on a mech lately. Did I miss something in ecf's history about exploding mechs from using them?

I'd like to place my Nautilus tank on my GP Paps someday.... :)

Bad coils don't lead to exploding mech.... Bad BATTERIES cause exploding mods......

Shorted coils lead to burned out coils.. not vented batteties.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

Ok, thank you for the information. I was not aware. I was under the impression from reading and research that stock coils on a mech mod was a big no no. Always learning I guess. :)

If a badly wound asymmetrical coil is going to arc, across itself or to the coil housing, it's going to happen regardless of the power source, mech or variable.

Building a repeatable, consistent baseline practically eliminates that concern. So it won't be happening with one of these…



The remaining real concern with atomizers on mechanicals is the 510 connection. That the positive pin be adequately protruding such that it and the (negative) threads don't both simultaneously contact the battery positive causing a short. The positive pin on some atomizers is floating. That means that they can slide up too high into the 510 when screwed on too tightly. Great graphic illustration of this below thanks to the folks at Zamplebox®…

full


No worries. Vape safe.

The positive pin on some atomizers is floating. That means that they can shift up into the 510 if it is screwed on too tightly.

Good luck. :)
 

MacTechVpr

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From the thread Good morning everybody . I'm new and researching ,first mech / build...... | Port # 100 | Page 5 | E-Cigarette Forum for reference…

I've been rollin these coils - and used both spaced and no…to see and taste myself if there is a difference, and if there, how big it is. From what i read , I expect some difference.

Congrats. As you consider the differences, pay close attention to apparent temperature. Temperature at a given wattage or voltage is a clear indicator of the vaporization efficiency of a wind. That is, how effectively it accomplishes the conversion. It's not merely important how much volume you may seemingly generate which determines a real overall level of production but its density. A cooler deeper density at any level of power is evidence of success in capturing the high side limits of a wind's capacity of conversion.

One can always scale up a build to support more wattage (and so production) or add wattage to create more diffusion but you must have production first or you're merely further thinning the vape.

Comparisons to be accurate and pertinent need to be of wire or combinations of the same total mass.

[Sorry for the late edit. Still having my a.m. coffee, lol.]

Good luck. :)

 
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MacTechVpr

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Lifted from the thread Best wicking matetial | Page 4 | Post #77 | E-Cigarette Forum for reference here.

Regarding wicking and management of any flaking when sectioning Nextel, see these two posts…

Best wicking matetial | Page 4 | Post #80 | E-Cigarette Forum
Best wicking matetial | Page 4 | Post # 75 | E-Cigarette Forum

@MacTechVpr knows more than I, I defer to him above. I do use the VG, kind of wipe the ends down while shaping the wick before I try (with varying success) to get it in the coil.

CMD we both know this stuff is incredibly easy to wick. And if you know how it takes seconds and there is little shedding when properly handled.

But get this…if you use a fine needle nose tweezers you can insert the moist wick almost through any wind. Even a monster like this one…


You just moisten the point and squeeze or slightly roll the tip tightly as you grip it with the tweezer point. Since the wick being braided and hollow compresses you can use this technique to insert 3mm into all diameters above 7/64" (2.778mm). Once in it's so slippery that it follows the wind right through if you just softly rotate it with a little forward pressure.

It's almost as much a pleasure rebuilding with this as using it.

Good luck. :)
 
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MacTechVpr

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For general info here, from the thread …Vaping is too complicated. | Page 4 | Post #79 | E-Cigarette Forum

The foremost cause of hot leads or hot segments in open or closed coils is geometric asymmetry. This may as well contribute to ineffective termination. The mangling brought by the irregularity of hand winding or common forming (bending) can corrupt a wind and unbalance dual or parallel elements. A common hazard is inconsistent wick contact which results in hot zones or segments regardless of coil type, i.e. variations in turn-to-turn diameters, spacing. There is a methodology to best promote temp stability across coils using strain in wind and installation to promote symmetry, uniform rigidity, oxidation and so durability. It makes best use of the properties of Kanthal, a wire developed to serve as a thermal element. Such coils are notably less susceptible to hot leads. Best of all, it's so simple anyone can do it…and consistently reproduce it!

It may not be the way we always vape…but it sure is a nice warm and reliable hearth to return to from the cold.

Good luck all and Happy New Year. :)

 
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MacTechVpr

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Lifted from the thread FL ALERT: Florida Constitution Revision Commission | E-Cigarette Forum for reference here…

Just received an alert from Alex Clark, CEO (CASAA), re Proposal 65…which ostensibly proposes a referendum amending the FL constitution to proscribe public [indoor] vaping, to be placed on the ballot in Nov. This is horribly short notice for this apparently first public meeting of the Constitutional Revision Commission (CRC) on this issue. For this critical question with profound individual rights implications, participants will only be allowed 2 minutes to voice their opinion!

For what it's worth, here at the particulars…

Tuesday, February 6, 2018
1:00 PM - 7:00 PM
Rick Case Arena at the Don Taft University Center (map)
3301 College Avenue
Fort Lauderdale, FL 33314

Presently because the state preempts legislation on this matter private business and those who live in community environments are somewhat sheltered from frivolous local regulation. If this passes a great many vapers and vape enterprise owners may find themselves targeted by every street corner zealot.

Good luck. :)
 
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MacTechVpr

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Lifted from the thread Coils caught on fire! | Page 2 | E-Cigarette Forum for reference…

This.
I use the same mod, rarely go below .2 in my single coils. The vape is smooth and watm enough and the battery doesn't take a killing.

I agree with the others, looks like the coil is touching something. May have moved it while wicking.

Massively agree with your 1st P. But there's nary a discussion of the shorting potentials of asymmetrical unoxidized multi-wire no matter how much we rake, chant or good the soundtrack…



OP's post adequately describes arcing. Note to self (it doesn't have to touch). Oh, and they can run the length of the coil, no screwdriver required.

Not everything beautiful works as advertised.

Good luck. :)

[p.s. Upping the power (voltage) increases those potentials.]

 

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MacTechVpr

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For reference, from the thread…Replacing coils every other day. | E-Cigarette Forum

Good morning all. Some great comebacks! I've read a few of these threads and I'm always curious what the spec of the coil is and what the heck does it look like. Still marvel after all these years why…the pic! the pic!…is rarely asked for. I mean really, are we that into reading?

Even some clearer juices can gunk up your coils. I don't use any blueberry flavors for that reason... Does it seem like the coil is getting enough juice into it?

Good point. Complex pigments are not necessarily visible. Sugars are particularly pernicious where accretion is concerned. Problem is that makers' formulas vary and aren't usually the noted flavoring alone but a recipe perhaps containing additional flavorings and other ingredients. Don't find blueberry or vanilla to be particularly dirty (ex. madagascar, or a pure or partial extraction) vs. caramels or some custards. Again, the spec is important. Otherwise, testing is the only way to be sure. And to come back on point…before we get to having to diagnose a gunk problem. Why? because it could be the performance of the device. But it's hard to diagnose if the juice is suspect (why I love RDA's and rebuilding).
Hi everyone. So I’m relatively new to vaping. (About a month or so). Problem is I’m having to replace coils every other day. I was using a smok baby beast. Then switched to a kangertech because I needed to replace coils every other day with the baby beast. Well I’m having to do that with the kangertech. I’m vaping in the wattage specs given on the coil. I’m priming properly. Not dry hitting. And giving it a few seconds between hits. Any recommendations???? I’m at a loss as are the vape shops.

Can I tell ya, I love the Kanger's for getting things right, for the simplicity. I build to a standard precisely so that assessing hardware and ultimately juices is ultimately simpler. That's really my point for answering here. Get rid of the easy stuff first…the wind itself, the mechanics used for installation and device parameters/setups…which we're going to do repeatedly anyway. Be certain of that and then the subtle differences which can make or break a juice's performance can be far, far easier to isolate. And all the above does become much easier with repetition. So a baseline approach is key. All we can do and know is controlled for. The big mystery, the great unknown, at the end of the day is what we're vaping. But you all know I was gonna say that, right?

LV build a tensioned Kanthal microcoil to a metric, at least 7/64" for the KST and high power which I gather you're using (>25W). Rec's are good that you start from the lower side but I hesitate to suggest anything without seeing your wind/s. Takes seconds to make this, oxidize and space (if you insist later for contrast) either before are after burn-in. Point is to try to get to the most predictable thermal result as possible. On the ST I wouldn't space as the post-to-post spread is narrow. It will lengthen the coil minimizing turn count and surface area. This is kinda how you get into the over-powered gunking winds zone (smart move to ditch the multi-wire with the juice you're trying to nail down). That can come later.

Few simple tools and some wire and you'll have baseline you can weigh any kind of build or coil product against. Why? You'll be able to replicate the exact flavor and performance on demand to use for comparison. Hope this makes some sense and is useful to you.

Good luck LV. :)

 
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MacTechVpr

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It's been years since I upgraded tanks. I love my 7ml protank/Subtank. I suck at building but have a good process for my mini rba plus. All tanks are broke. Anyone know where I can buy replacement glass? Are there any other tanks that are compatible with that RBA? I'm so out of the loop when it comes to buying new Vape gear I just like what I've been using for years and would really appreciate some help

Have you looked on fasttech and ebay for replacement glass. Try Kangertech as well, they still have some parts too. @MacTechVpr or @Coastal Cowboy can help. I don't know about RBA compatibility.

First I'd check…Home - Kanger World…for any still available spares. Then eBay, FT, 3F, GearBest, etc. if the search engines don't pan out for the specific part/s. Here's two handy search tools…

PicClick • Search eBay Faster. Find it first!
Vapecrawler

Always search here on ECF first to check if members found a good deal or source.

Good luck. :)
 
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MacTechVpr

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MacTechVpr

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I swapped out with my previous STM’s RBA, which has larger juice holes. I’m thinking of getting several of these RBA’s as a quick backup. Pre-wick them so they’ll be as convenient as a pre-made factory coil.

An excellent strategy. Also, hold on to the orig OCC assemblies. They dismantle with a little effort. Then adjusted, i.e. shaved, trimmed, filed etc. to make disassembly easier. Advantage?


The OCC can take more varied and robust winds that'll far outperform anything in the RBA. I like the deck for <30 tab builds. But the first replaceable can really stoke the KST. Kanger bad and did us wrong to lock 'em up.

But if you happen to disagree y'all go ahead and send me your old OCC assemblies. I'll def put 'em to good use. Glad to have to help folks quit with rebuilding. And you can't get much easier than that. Just better.

Cood luck. :)
 

MacTechVpr

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Lifted from the thread FIRE IN THE HOLE | Post #29 | Page 2 | E-Cigarette Forum for reference on the effects of lack of symmetry (of both elements and their segments) inc good tube on spontaneous ignition and discussion of glycerols and their properties…



Good puff thx for the demo. Obvious ?, notice anything peculiar about the build? The apparent [unwicked] wire temp it got to?

Symmetry is our friend. Of elements and segments.

Good luck. :)
 

MacTechVpr

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Lifted from the thread…Need suggestions for a good MTL build on my Kayfun Prime - replicating my Nautilus 2 as a reminder. :)

Hey guys,
after some lurking I finally want to bother you with a question. Hope this is the right subforum.

I am mostly doing MTL and after being very happy with my Nautilus 2 (loving both coils, mostly using the 0.7 ones) I recently started to get into rebuildables. I got myself a Kayfun Prime and I'm trying to replicate the flavor and throat hit I get out of my Nautilus.

Right now I'm using a 2.5mm 28ga Kanthal build with 6 wraps which comes out at about 1.1 Ohm. While flavor is great, it's still not quite as strong as on my Nautilus and the biggest difference is the throat hit which is much weaker.

I heard the Kayfun runs best at about 1.5 Ohms, is that true? Is there any build or wire you guys can recommend? I have tried some different 28ga builds I found on here, all between 0.8 and 1.3 Ohms but still nothing beats my Nautilus right now.

So I'm eager to try out something else or to pick up another kind of wire and I'd be very glad if you could share your builds.

Cheers!

No better hidden secret on this forum…

A fabulous vape in 30 seconds and no better method for an honest baseline. Vape memory is all too easily persuaded by shiny and me gots too.

Tensioned Micro Coils. The next step.
Protank MicroCoil Discussion!

Then there's always chuckin' horseshoes. ;)

Good luck. :)

p.s. Think mass to wetted surface area. What does it get ya?
 

Alter

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I was bored one evening...long ago. It takes some good honest tapping along with the proper sized tool to get the sleeve out of a kanger subtank mini vertical coil too make it a horizontal coil. I have to sit down and redo it to figure it out again but YES it can be done and not damage anything. I'll wait for the day my last RBA bites the dust before dwelling into rebuilding the factory coils.
 
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