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Yeah I guess so lol.. Is it just me, or does the PT1 have thicker glass than the PT2?? Maybe a different kind of glass - when I first got the PT2 I thought the glass was plastic..
Luckily it's just a chip at the top of the glass, so I'm still using the PT2.. The chip goes all the way through though so if I tip the tank, it could probably leak a bit. And this probably effects its internal air-pressure
.. Oh well, still vaping my 1.9ohm 1/16in cotton microcoil, for now
Luckily it's just a chip at the top of the glass, so I'm still using the PT2.. The chip goes all the way through though so if I tip the tank, it could probably leak a bit. And this probably effects its internal air-pressure
.. Oh well, still vaping my 1.9ohm 1/16in cotton microcoil, for now
Yeah I guess so lol.. Is it just me, or does the PT1 have thicker glass than the PT2?? Maybe a different kind of glass - when I first got the PT2 I thought the glass was plastic..
Luckily it's just a chip at the top of the glass, so I'm still using the PT2.. The chip goes all the way through though so if I tip the tank, it could probably leak a bit. And this probably effects its internal air-pressure
.. Oh well, still vaping my 1.9ohm 1/16in cotton microcoil, for now
That's not even funny. I was just taking to a friend who's a vendor showing off my collection of test mutants. These were PT1's that were sold as Kanger but were obvious way off clones in a variety of ways. Today's demonstration what a banana looks like. More like palm fronds on a stand of straight Sigelei's Really! Warped. Leaning Tower stuff. So yeah a lot of the "glass" Kangers were plastic. And some were sold as that. But agree with you too that the new glass seems to be less thick or dense, if you will.
Providence favors the quick, That's not me. When I started I dropped my variable PV's more than a half dozen times doing the old "oh look over there" move. Dominoes! And naturally the stems always seemed to break for the newb. So I ended up with quite a collection of o-rings.
You see, there is a bright side to everything.
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Do not know if this counts as a micro coil but i got 7 wraps of 32awg round a 1mm pin and then push a small piece of 1mm silica through it i then put a 2mm flavour wick on top and this thing vapes like a train on my small ego battery .I could never get this amount of vapour off this type of battery before so i happy with it does this count as micro coil
Diff between a micro (MC) and standard coil (SC) is:
MC = all wraps must be touching but not overlapping... this is done by heating the coil then using tweezers or needle nose to compress the coil while hot (but not while actually pressing the fire button if using a mod to heat instead of a lighter or stove to torch). The heat makes the coil retain its form. All coils MUST be touching. Often micro-coils have as many as 14 wraps but 10 or 11 is more typical, though they can also have fewer wraps.
SC = Usually 5-8 wraps or so, and NO WRAPS CAN BE TOUCHING but should be as close as possible without touching, and evenly spaced. Some leave a larger space in the center since coils heat up from the center outward... this reduces chance of burning silica wicks from the center heating up more than the outer wraps.
Trayce - why can't you use your battery to heat up the coil, and than squeeze it tight with tweezers? I do this with my eVic and it works fine; I wrap my coils as tightly/closely as possible, install the coil, heat it up with my battery, than quickly squeezing it tight while it's still red hot. I do this a couple times before installing the cotton and filling up the tank.
I have to be careful not to squeze it while firing though or else it will short, but I squeeze right after I let go of the button.
I do this mainly because I don't have a torch lighter. But, I do heat up all my Kanthal til it's all red hot with a regular Bic lighter - I do this to every inch of wire that I use. I also let a new coil sit and soak up juice for about 20minutes before the first time I vape it.
...... Vape them @ around 6.5-7watts, but I start low (@ like 5 watts, than go up .5w at a time) to "break it in" so to speak. And I have to change the cotton wick every 2 days or so.
I have to be careful not to squeze it while firing though or else it will short, but I squeeze right after I let go of the button.
I do this mainly because I don't have a torch lighter. But, I do heat up all my Kanthal til it's all red hot with a regular Bic lighter - I do this to every inch of wire that I use. I also let a new coil sit and soak up juice for about 20minutes before the first time I vape it.
...... Vape them @ around 6.5-7watts, but I start low (@ like 5 watts, than go up .5w at a time) to "break it in" so to speak. And I have to change the cotton wick every 2 days or so.
That's in nano coil range. A micro is 1.5mm or less inner diameter. Nano coils start at just a hair over 1mm inner diameter.
Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk
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That's in nano coil range. A micro is 1.5mm or less inner diameter. Nano coils start at just a hair over 1mm inner diameter.
Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk
Dude, charts don't mean a thing. Only one thing'll get ya a "ººººººººº". She gotta have the legs or you don't get that "effect".
Just sayin'
Is ok to use silica wick with micro coils also is ok to use a flavour wick this is the only way I could get it not to leak the performance is just fine.
The wraps are all touching because I torched it in that position so it stays that way it's only 7 wraps because I am using 32awg instead of 28 awg haven't got any 28 yet I know one thing I will not buy any coils for a while and those I do buy I will rebuild straight away!
The wraps are all touching because I torched it in that position so it stays that way it's only 7 wraps because I am using 32awg instead of 28 awg haven't got any 28 yet I know one thing I will not buy any coils for a while and those I do buy I will rebuild straight away!
You can, of course. I only said don't press the fire button while squeezing the coil.
EDIT: Btw dry-burning can scorch the rubber grommet and add a nasty flavor to your vape so torching with a lighter or heating over the gas stove will avoid that potential problem for those using heads with rubber grommets.
@ Whiplash: Thanks for adding that a micro/mini/nano is also determined by ID and not just wrap style.
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Any kind of wick you want is fine.
Yes, that's the problem with rebuilding... the stock head is no longer satisfying and gets rebuilt straight away.
In my experience I like 7-wrap micro-coils because for some reason they give me more flavor than more wraps. Dunno why.
True that. I made up a 30AWG, 7/6 1.58mm i.d., @ 1.57Ω coil for the mini and I could not believe how much vapor this little beast let loose (@6W). And this is outside the Mini's supposed optimal performance range. It was far more than I've EVER gotten on anything. Impressive and I completely changed my outlook on the Mini. It's compact shape keeps the atty cool and it makes all the difference for efficiency of vaporization (less wasteful cooking of the juice vs. the big brother).
I was still running silica when I ran through through 7 wraps and at greater i.d.'s. I'll have to revisit that zone! As well as 32g and perhaps 31. If you say you've hit good there trust you Trayce. You seem to be one of those paying attention to the details here.
On the other hand I tried some recent 2.7Ω heads in the PT2 and they were unimpressive. I'm no longer used to silica or inspired by that resistance. I'll have to build some again to venture into some of my dual-coil RDA's as I want to avoid sub-ohms for now.
Time changes.
Thanks.
I don't know about that. Just muddling through lots of trial and error. As always "YMMV." FTR I was using 30g kanthal and a 3/32 implement @ 7 wraps, compressed into what I have been calling a micro-coil but I guess at that ID it's technically a mini-coil. (Who decides all this nomenclature, I wonder?)
One thing I noticed for me, is that more wraps -- at least at that ID -- really muted flavor. Probably some of that has to do with juice blend, (I vape near-100% VG), and some with the mod and how it delivers power. Not to mention everyone's sense of taste is different. But that was my experience for whatever reasons. Then I'd watch Rip Trippers (YouTube) build like a 14-wrap mini/micro and blow clouds, in total rapture from the flavor. So I'm the wrong person to watch.
I hear you. I used to like 2.4-2.6 ohm standard coils. Now I have to rebuild all heads to first get rid of the silica, and now the rubber grommet too, and then to get the lower ohms I'm looking for, and a compressed coil!
And also found my tastes are changing... juice I used to love I don't care for anymore.
One thing about vaping is a certainty... constant change!
I don't know about that. Just muddling through lots of trial and error. As always "YMMV." FTR I was using 30g kanthal and a 3/32 implement @ 7 wraps, compressed into what I have been calling a micro-coil but I guess at that ID it's technically a mini-coil. (Who decides all this nomenclature, I wonder?)
Then I'd watch Rip Trippers (YouTube) build like a 14-wrap mini/micro and blow clouds, in total rapture from the flavor. So I'm the wrong person to watch.
I hear you. I used to like 2.4-2.6 ohm standard coils. Now I have to rebuild all heads to first get rid of the silica, and now the rubber grommet too, and then to get the lower ohms I'm looking for, and a compressed coil!
And also found my tastes are changing... juice I used to love I don't care for anymore.
One thing about vaping is a certainty... constant change!
Rip's a trip. But it's theater. I'm getting huge vapor from a 1.2Ω on a Forge single coil. I get buzzed quick with my main vape at 12 nic. On the other hand have you noticed his pupil dilation!???
The term "micro coil" is one widely used throughout industry to mean a variety of different things but quite commonly used in mag resonance imaging and to signify coils below 1mm in i.d. So in that context most of us are not using microcoils in that generic sense. But from a physics standpoint we certainly are. I hate the silly distinctions. Does it do what we need it to do as I referenced above? That's the ticket.
I just wanted to let you in on my little discovery about the missy Mini. Quite a shock. She's such a temptress. Who would've known?
One good question for you is to ask you to confirm if you're using something other than cotton in that sub-mm wind. I'll assume you are. I haven't found a wick material that'll go reliably into that although I did try supposed 1 mm Ekowool at one point and too tight for that build. I'll have to revisit it if you were successful (with your tip on how to).
I vape virtually all 100% VG except my primary JC Tenn. Cured at 6%PG net as it's a blend of adjustments I've shared with some vendors to come up a completely novel and delightful vape with tons of vapor. Not that JCTC doesn't have it to begin with.
I noticed the same in 30g winds above 9 on 1.75mm. The curve hit a plateau for both flavor and vapor somewhere between 8 and 10 wraps 2Ω, unless I applied substantially more power. Again, I'm still testing in that range particularly favoring 9 wraps for 1.75 at 2Ω. The 1.58 i.d. hit a peak for me at 8 wraps @ 1.8Ω and what is an awesome vape for me with only a small falloff for this diameter where there's another huge bolt-a-lighting at 10 @ 2.2. Ever wonder how Kanger set those two resistance levels (1.8 and 2.2). Wire and diameter optimal characteristics IMHO. At least I've satisfied myself stumbling across those findings and don't have to sample every detente on the dial.
Honestly, it's been interesting and a lot of fun. I've enjoyed sharing what hopefully might prove to be some shortcuts to optimal flavor for some of those visiting here. I get a kick out of that. 'Cause I spent a good long time looking' in the corners for something that wasn't there.
If you found a high spot with a wind Trayce by all means POST!
You and I both know now how to target those resistance levels with a build and hopefully a great many more of us will soon too thanks to the micro coil.
Good luck, cya here.
What vdaedalus said! And my reply, #57. I did post an answer to ya Jelly. Wasn't dissin' ya. The board was still actin' up on me when I was posting and I missed that the one to you I didn't re-do. Lost a few posts but too many lockups the other day and in the aftermath.
So congrats and appreciate the ack very much. I'd say hit the known sweet spots 1.8. 2.2 and 2.4 maybe. Seems like you're on the right track there with that 10/9. I wind a tad tighter and get 2.2ish for a PDG [pretty damned good] vape.
I'm really liking the vicinity of 1.8Ω which was too warm for me when I started. As my winds have gotten tighter it's richer, more moist there and so most definitely tolerable. I've wanted to stratify on one or two builds for the PT's. Now with my discovery the Mini likes 1.6Ω I may have to diversify!
Good luck!
One thing about vaping is a certainty... constant change!
Man you got that right. When I try to chain and lung on that factory silica 2.7Ω now I almost choke to death. It's dry as a desert bone.
Ha ha...no Mac, did not think that you were dissin' me at all. You've been very generous and informative to any questions posed of you.
I built an 8/7 30 gauge wrap today around the 1/16" bit and followed your directions to the 'T', including the quenching. And absolutely YES, I do remember those film cans and went through many of them with my AE-1. After all, I'm a lot older than I look...or at least I like to think so.
My coil looked beautiful and came out to about 1.8 ohms and at that point I thought that I was ahead of the game. However, this time I put in a flavor wick on top of the coil and and the draw was super stiff and I was not getting enough air. At that point I got disgusted and ripped the whole thing apart, but in retrospect I probably should have played around with it some...maybe shorten or remove the flavor wick or move the plastic collar up...I don't know.
But anyways, I'm a lot more confident and comfortable with the microcoil winding process now. I just need to take some time and learn to understand the ProTank better...and hopefully, the next time that I give it a try I will have more patience.
Thanks!!!
Thanks, I appreciate the ack. Makes it worthwhile when someone benefits.
Ah, the A-1 w/motor drive, sweet, and two similar AE-1's black with Canon top-tier multicoated lenses. I loved them well. Now that was an expensive hobby! I had accounts with three labs. Then came video and I was doomed. But I depart.
You're in the pipeline! I was rash often myself. I've had a devil of a time with top wicks. Interesting thing I found. Most 1mm silica sucks! I had more of those top wicks ruin good builds in hours because the quality was so bad. Many vendors from all over. The stuff's foul. I started using small diameter Ekowool instead. Expensive but worked. Less flooding too. Much less fouling and clogging as the stupid top wicks stopped fraying into the coil cup stopping air flow! It needs to stay in place and not shred. If the wick meets that criteria, it's a real wick. Why they keep passing off this stuff I do not know. Some chinaman General must have a lock on that part of the guv'ment cartel.
Now Ekowool's beautiful and if washed won't offend. But it's heck to get it into what would seem to be it's appropriate diameter. And the cross-section of the media varies from vendor to vendor it seems. So it's hard to predict what you're going to have until you get it and mike it. I started with 2mm to dismal results. Lot's of flooding and chocking, clogging as I was feeding into too tight a wick. The 2mm I had was well over and although a sleeve did not compact well. Since I've had some variations that worked. I have sources marked somewhere but was essentially getting samples from everywhere until I was utterly frustrated. However, I did come out of that into some quite good results at 2mm. Even compressing the same 2mm on top. Amazing.
If you can find a 1.5 solid that feeds well into 1.75mm that might be worth a try. I have quite a bit of the stuff I set aside for RDA's and eventually I'll return to building tables for it. But that brings up another nasty subject.
Although I'd like to build for 2mm on the Protank, you can't! Not economically. You see Ekowool is relatively pricey; and…2mm doesn't drop down into the slot on the Protank. Rotten. That means it's a throwaway build. Yes, you can build in place letting the "V" hold your mandrel (screwdriver, bit, etc.) then after you're done gently push the top wick down on it to lower both down into the slot. HOWEVER…this will induce an arc in the legs. Even with a good symmetrical installation and tight short legs you run the risk of intermittent contact and resistance error in operation. Secondly, you risk separating the two outer turns of the coil creating the very high risk of hot legs. Screwed. We just defeated the whole purpose of the build. I've tried it since 28g is awesome at 2mm. When I made that discovery I realized Rip Tripper's recommendations were excellent gamesmanship. It relegates the build to the class "cotton only". And most of us can't be replacing builds every day or two. Not practical. Sorry fans.
Consumers need simple reproducible solutions. Not ideas that are going to break the bank or require a rocket scientist with the digital dexterity of Liberaci to do a build. Two mm 28g is pretty much the formula for the latter. So, with a little luck I thought, I just as well could try to verify and document some truly practical alternatives for the rest of us.
We all can.
LOL. At my age, I'd like to think so too but I think I've gotten past pretenses. Still, I have the missies trying to swipe tugs on my vaper. S'all good.
Thanks for the nod Jelly.
Good luck!
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I'm about to go out for the night, so haven't had a chance to read the past page or so back..
BUT, it looks like I'm going to have to buy some more STOCK Kanger Coil-Heads , for the first time in like 4 months!! I just saw that my buddy had a new protank coil, and the grommet was SILICONE instead of RUBBER!! So possibly no more burny taste on the rebuilds, hopefully?? I can't wait to grab some of these and tear them apart, LOL
..... Besides, I'm running low on coil-heads to rebuild on, anyways
BUT, it looks like I'm going to have to buy some more STOCK Kanger Coil-Heads , for the first time in like 4 months!! I just saw that my buddy had a new protank coil, and the grommet was SILICONE instead of RUBBER!! So possibly no more burny taste on the rebuilds, hopefully?? I can't wait to grab some of these and tear them apart, LOL
..... Besides, I'm running low on coil-heads to rebuild on, anyways
Rip's a trip. But it's theater. I'm getting huge vapor from a 1.2Ω on a Forge single coil. I get buzzed quick with my main vape at 12 nic. On the other hand have you noticed his pupil dilation!???
LOL. For some reason I can watch people like Rip, Grimm and Busardo for days. It always looks so satisfying and there's something just really enjoyable about watching their vids.
I guess every hobby has its lingo.
And vaping certainly becomes a hobby!I am cotton all the way. It wasn't me with a how-to on Ekowool, if I read that right. I looked into it some at one point when I wanted to get away from silica... looked at cotton-wrapped Ekowool... but then learned Ekowool is a type of silica, so dropped that idea. I am very happy with cotton, myself.
Sounds good. I also made a NET I like from Captain Black.
Right... enter burning rubber grommet!
Sounds like you're really doing this systematically!! And yeah, Kanger didn't pull those numbers out of a hat.
I think a great many already do.
I am just following the lead of the veterans who are so kind to share their knowledge. I don't belong included in that sentence and that's not false humility. I feel very fortunate there are so many innovative and friendly people who are always bringing knowledge back to the rest of us. Have a good night, Mac.
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