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I honestly don't remember- I'm sure it's in the official provari thread. The latest 2.5 boards have a coating on them and aren't supposed to be cleaned by soaking them in alcohol. There were other minor tweaks between 2.0 and 2.5, but I can't recall what happened when.
Ok Thanks!!
I got one in for service and I wondered what upgrade options I had.
I think mine is a version 2.0... not sure.
If I remember correctly (maybe not?) the original mini's had a v2 board and the newer mini's are 2.5. There may have been revs in between.
I have been doing a ton of reading through the archived threads lately, and the V2 to V2.5 seems to have been a cosmetic change only. The biggest functionality change occurred from the V1 to the V2's which involved a higher amp limit (3.5A for V2 vs 2.5A for V1) and a greater voltage range ( 3.0v-6.0v for V2 vs 3.3v-6v for V1). I have a sneaking suspicion that the change was mainly a software change, as the cost of the upgrade is only 20$, replacing the circuit board is 65$.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/provape/371521-ordered-2-5-got-2-0-a.html#post8372345this
above link is the very first mention( 1-19-2013) of a V2.5, and it was a thread about a mis shipped unit, only relevant because someone in it mentions that the change was merely a cosmetic one.
On 11-19-2013 there is a thread about Isopropyl flush which advised Provape customers to discontinue the practice because of the way the circuit boards are "processed".
That's how I remember... there may have been a few minor tweaks in there- i.e. - not sure when they changed the way the contact pin is set up... it used to be recessed and now it sticks up...
jimho, I read all of your posts in the great ProVari release thread
I recently picked up gently used V1 from 2011, and just love that mod. I will take a look at the center pin in the morning, but if memory serves me, it looks pretty much the same as my V2.5's. I have been rocking that V1 with an IGO-L with a 1.4Ω build on it at 3.6V, and it is performing flawlessly( after a thorough cleaning of all contact surfaces). Another note of interest is that the V2 had a different hard deck for the amp limit. The V1 would provide 2.5amp across the range of voltages. The V2 will offer 3.5amps only up to 4.2V, at which point power output is determined by the limiting factor of 14.5watts. Another clue to me that the change from V1 to V2 was a software change. Of course, I could be totally wrong about this...it is just a guess.
Yes I had a mini without the slotted top cap and my tanks sat flush with the pro ring and only had the slightest of space without it. I have a full size with the new slotted top cap and my tanks sat really high. High enough that the pro ring would rattle around and not stay down. I sent it in with the pro ring and one of my tanks they adjusted it. Though I think they adjusted it without the pro ring cause at first it sat flush without it and wouldn't make contact with it but I just pulled the pin a hair and it works fine now.
It's OK for me not to send it back but it kind of sucks only that I don't think I can put the tank on my mini then move it back to the full without adjusting the pin. I haven't really played with them much since I got the full back about 2 weeks ago.
Also worth noting the full was sent back because of e1 and e4 errors and the pin adjustment they did for nothing with the warranty replacement of the board.
Other differences I noticed is the battery contact pin. Used to be silver and round now it's a little square gold color.
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Thanks for clarifying the contact pin- all of what you're experiencing is part of the deal - either you get the same setup on both of your provari's or use different topper set ups on each.... your choice... can't have your cake and eat it too
What I think most of you guys will find is that once you find whatever it is that works for you as a topper, and settle into it- there's no need to keep messing around ... At some point, you come to the realization that you're spending too much time and energy searching for the perfect vape- you find a combination that works for you and stop fiddling. I got to that point a while back with the provari's - Now, I put my atty's on, check the resistance and set the voltage at 5.2 or 5.5 (depending on the atty) and tweak it up or down a notch based on taste.. stick a spare battery and a 10ml bottle in my pocket and then I go about my day without worrying about it again....
I'm sure some will disagree - there's plenty to talk about with dual coils and sub-ohm-ing - and it's fun to mess around with some of these things- most of which you can't do with a provari ..... I'm not going say anything negative about the guys out there messing around with DNA mods- I'm intrigued by the idea... for those of you that want to spend the time and energy tweaking and testing the newest mod de jour I think it's great- for me... been there, done that and now I'm off to other things with my spare time. ... for the vast majority of folks who want something that's practical, consistent, sturdy and reliable, you can't go wrong with the current provari ....
BTW: you guys running the original V1 boards really should spend the $20 and upgrade. There's been enough said about it on the main provari thread.... and if you say you won't send it back because you don't want to be without your provari for a week to 10 days, well there's the reason you need to have 2.
Another thought- when the mini first came out I was dubious because I thought I had to have an 18650 to get through the day. The V2 upgrade lowered the low battery cut off voltage to more fully discharge the battery...Once that happened and 18490's got me through 2/3-3/4 of the day, the mini with an extension became my preference. I always carry a spare battery when I'm out of the house for more than an hour and the ability to drop down to 18350 is preferable to me so the mini made more sense ...
@suspectK - what's choking you up?
Thanks for clarifying the contact pin- all of what you're experiencing is part of the deal - either you get the same setup on both of your provari's or use different topper set ups on each.... your choice... can't have your cake and eat it too
What I think most of you guys will find is that once you find whatever it is that works for you as a topper, and settle into it- there's no need to keep messing around ... At some point, you come to the realization that you're spending too much time and energy searching for the perfect vape- you find a combination that works for you and stop fiddling. I got to that point a while back with the provari's - Now, I put my atty's on, check the resistance and set the voltage at 5.2 or 5.5 (depending on the atty) and tweak it up or down a notch based on taste.. stick a spare battery and a 10ml bottle in my pocket and then I go about my day without worrying about it again....
I'm sure some will disagree - there's plenty to talk about with dual coils and sub-ohm-ing - and it's fun to mess around with some of these things- most of which you can't do with a provari ..... I'm not going say anything negative about the guys out there messing around with DNA mods- I'm intrigued by the idea... for those of you that want to spend the time and energy tweaking and testing the newest mod de jour I think it's great- for me... been there, done that and now I'm off to other things with my spare time. ... for the vast majority of folks who want something that's practical, consistent, sturdy and reliable, you can't go wrong with the current provari ....
BTW: you guys running the original V1 boards really should spend the $20 and upgrade. There's been enough said about it on the main provari thread.... and if you say you won't send it back because you don't want to be without your provari for a week to 10 days, well there's the reason you need to have 2.
Another thought- when the mini first came out I was dubious because I thought I had to have an 18650 to get through the day. The V2 upgrade lowered the low battery cut off voltage to more fully discharge the battery...Once that happened and 18490's got me through 2/3-3/4 of the day, the mini with an extension became my preference. I always carry a spare battery when I'm out of the house for more than an hour and the ability to drop down to 18350 is preferable to me so the mini made more sense ...
@suspectK - what's choking you up?
I only use the aerotank and aerotank mega. Mostly just the mega now which is why I had them adjust the pin to match the provari mini since it sit so perfect on there. I knew the risk involved should I choose to try another tank but I've tried them all outside of getting into RBA's but as of now I'm more than satisfied with my aerotanks and better for me than any other tanks I've tried. Sorry I left that part out
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Lol, I was quoting you for the paragraph I left. I was highlighting everything else to delete, and just noticed.. I was coughing because I haven't learned about provari 3, yet...
But I remember vaping couldn't possibly get any better when I first started. I only had an ego for a couple of weeks..got a nice little (POS dial that's screwed "halfway there and back") 3-5volt 14500 mod with carto tanks.
..dual or single. I didn't really notice a difference when both functioned perfectly.. Fruity flavors were so amazing... and then one day, all fruits vaped horribly for me.. lately all flavors are vaping horribly for me..
saves me money...tons, so super positive, especially since nicotine is moving its way out of the picture, and I never intended for that.. I thought I would always be at 2.4%, but I also didn't see myself telling people what kind of batteries I currently use, and the new atomizer(s) rather often..she says every week. The amount I own says otherwise..Man, if only more than I, and the NSA, Google..etc, could read all the stuff I've 'swiped' out and deleted..rant ended+prevented.
I must be terribly old school, but this "Haters" term really irritates me to no end.
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Are you suggesting you hate "Haters"? .... or those who hate "Haters".....
One thing I've never understood is why Provape uses glue to hold the board in place. The should have made the topcap with a collar that goes in the tube holding the board in place. That way you can be 100% sure it will never ever come loose. Using glue is cutting corners if you ask me, especially on such an expensive device.
If you check more closely....I think you'll find the "glue" used by ProVape is actually epoxy resin....
Using this has a couple of BIG benefits.....it IS more cost-effective vs metal/plastic fabrication....ER is SUPER STRONG...the circuit board is more likely to yield than the ER.....and, because ER is somewhat flexible, it acts as a "shock absorber" in the event of drops/strikes....
Plus...ER is generally WATERPROOF!!
Happy (vaping) Trails!
If you check more closely....I think you'll find the "glue" used by ProVape is actually epoxy resin....
Using this has a couple of BIG benefits.....it IS more cost-effective vs metal/plastic fabrication....ER is SUPER STRONG...the circuit board is more likely to yield than the ER.....and, because ER is somewhat flexible, it acts as a "shock absorber" in the event of drops/strikes....
Plus...ER is generally WATERPROOF!!
Happy (vaping) Trails!
Ha! that's a lot of spin- Easy with that- not saying anyone shouldn't buy the Provari because of this.... but Lemwise is dead on.
Your not wrong that ER (it's still glue) has some benefits but since you focused on the strength, bond strength depends on the materials being joined and the bond strength between ER and Steel is pretty poor - in fact it pops right off from the steel. Surely it was made this way to save the cost of mechanically securing the end cap and properly cushioning the board- If they had threaded the end cap (or used a capture), an O-Ring between the board and the cap would have done the trick.... and the Provari would have probably cost $10-$25 more - I remember a discussion somewhere about it way back when... the glue (epoxy if it makes you happy) was a reasonable trade off in the original design.
Cost effective yes, the best solution- I don't think so- it's still a weak point.,
The few issues I've had in almost 4 years of using these have been related to the board coming loose (usually when the top pops off) and shorting- when you think about it, it's really the only thing that can go wrong with it short of dropping it in water....
It's understandable that the design carried forward from the original in 2010 when they didn't know how many would sell. But let's not spin the use of ER as opposed to properly securing the board as a feature
It's not a reason to not buy the Provari but something that surely could be improved... If we ever do see a V3 ...
I've worked for 16 years as a carpenter in the yacht building business. In those 16 years, I've probably worked with epoxy more than anyone at Provape, and I know how much it can take before it fails. I can tell you this, Provape made a wrong design decision in using epoxy. Don't get me wrong, I still love my ProVari, but the only way to properly secure the board, is by doing it like jimho described. It's inexcusable, to use two small drops of epoxy for a company claiming to make the most reliable PV on the market.If you check more closely....I think you'll find the "glue" used by ProVape is actually epoxy resin....
Using this has a couple of BIG benefits.....it IS more cost-effective vs metal/plastic fabrication....ER is SUPER STRONG...the circuit board is more likely to yield than the ER.....and, because ER is somewhat flexible, it acts as a "shock absorber" in the event of drops/strikes....
Plus...ER is generally WATERPROOF!!
Happy (vaping) Trails!
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Mailed my ProVari in for the 'glue' issue and inquired about the v3. Per customer service, details are to be released this week.
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