Question about iTaste VTR

[ZeroOhms]

Somewhat related. I found PT to be extra airy on VTR. I had a few of these AFC and worked great with VTR.

Smoktech Tank Airflow controller

 

[ZeroOhms]

The life of a coil depends more on what kind of liquid, juice, you're using. The sweeter the flavor, the shorter the coil life.

The best prices are in co-ops here on ECF, well below what most vendors normally charge.

The best tank for the VTR is one that fits into it and gives you the flavor and vapor you're looking for. I use iClear 30, iClear 30s and Protanks on mine, but my personal preference is the iClear 30.

Again, the tank isn't what governs coil life, the liquid is the key.

Coil life is dependent on how fast "gunk" builds up on the coil. The "gunk" is actually a polymer of carbon atoms created by the heat of the coil. All of the components of vaping liquids contain some carbon atoms, but sweet flavors contain a lot of carbon atoms and will build "gunk" up pretty quickly when compared to non-sweet flavors like tobacco flavors. I am getting two months of heavy use out of all of my devices, but I vape "dry" tobacco flavors with very low sweetener content.

There are tons of threads that talk about how to clean a coil, but from my personal experience there are two ways - dry burn the coil before it gets too "gunked" up or simply replace the coil. Lots of people soak them in high strength grain alcohol, 180 proof or higher, but my experience is even that won't remove that nice, carbon polymer, build up very effectively. I have tried industrial solvents, lacquer thinner, toluene, brake cleaner and acetone. None of them can touch the gunk either and I would not want to vape something I cleaned using that stuff!

Exactly! I tried many different cleaning methods but dry burning seems to be the best (and pretty much only effective way). If that doesn't work, replace the atty.
(I do rebuild them, but seems like that's off topic)

 

[Camikadze]

By dry burning you meen to take our all liquid and just push the button to burn it?

 

[ZeroOhms]

By dry burning you meen to take our all liquid and just push the button to burn it?

Yea. That's pretty much the process. There are tons of dry burning videos on YouTube.

Take the atty and rinse it under warm water (just to get juice washed off). Let it dry over night (never dry burn wet coil/wick). Pulse it on low voltage until you see a clean coil. Blowing on the coil while pulsing helps too. Good coil is one that glows red evenly from center to edge.
You can't dry burn cotton. (fire!) VV/VW with automatic cut off will cut you off if you hold the button too long. If you pulse five times on ProVari, it will go into the menu. So watch for that. One time, I ended up jacking up the voltage to max while pulsing on ProVari.

 

[awsum140]

To dry burn you need to be able to actually see the coil itself. That means removing the air tube and any "flavor" wicks. Then, apply power in SHORT bursts until you see each wrap of wire glow red hot. If you over do it, you will end up with a crappy tasting atomizer. Once I've burned off all the "gunk" I give them a shot of canned air, then a heavy rinse to get all the residue out.

As far as never dry burning a wet wick, it would seem to me that water in the wick would help protect it from being overheated, burned, but the dry burning process. I dry burn right after I rinse them and have yet to experience any problem.

(to be read at double speed)
Just my opinion, worth what you're paying for it. Your results and mileage may vary. No warranty or guarantee is expressed or implied. The reader holds the poster harmless and without any liability whatsoever. I am not Doctor, scientist, chemist, physicist nor do I play any of them on TV and hold no degrees in any field. Proceed at your own risk.

 

[F.O.Bean]

I have heard not so great things about those Trustfire chargers. I have a Nitecore Four-Bay Intellicharger and love it! Im a battery geek because I have been doing high quality live audio recordings for about 20 years[Phish/moe/etc] and Ive tried every battery chemistry out there. I ALWAYS bought a HQ charger and it makes a world of difference. You MUST buy a "smart-charger". Hell, my AA/AAA charger is a Maha Powerex MHC-9000 charger[that costs about $50] and it "breaks in" the AA/AAA batteries and it takes about 3 days. After that, theyll last for years.

Anyway, a good "smart charger" is worth every penny. Youll want a charger that has a trickle charge once the battery is done charging. It makes sure the battery capacity is at 100%, hypothetically anyway The bare minimum charger is the Nitecore Intellicharger that Im sure alot of vapers use!

Best of luck, and happy vaping 8)

 

[awsum140]

F.O.Bean, I don't want to dispute your opinions on chargers. A quality charger, NiteCore Intellicharger or Xtar VP1 are probably the best "consumer" grade chargers around without question. But...you don't want to trickle charge a lithium based battery/ Once a lithium base is fully charged the charger needs to shut down, completely or you need to take the battery off the charger. If that doesn't happen the cell can be damaged which will shorten its life.

NiCD NiMh and gel/lead-acid can handle trickle charging and are better off with it.

(to be read at double speed)
Just my opinion, worth what you're paying for it. Your results and mileage may vary. No warranty or guarantee is expressed or implied. The reader holds the poster harmless and without any liability whatsoever. I am not Doctor, scientist, chemist, physicist nor do I play any of them on TV and hold no degrees in any field. Proceed at your own risk.