Question about mech mods

[Bad Ninja]

What can be considered "safe" as a coil on a mech mod? I'm I correct assuming that the higher the ohm, the safest the mod is?
Also, if I would like to build a coil myself with the proper tank and by following a couple of guides, what kind of cable and which diameter do you suggest to stay around 0,7 and 1.2 ohm?

Always remember you are the safety when using a mech.

Stay below your cells (battery's) max continuous discharge rating.
**Many retailers flat out lie about this.**
I always use @Mooch 's blog to check out actual specs of a cell, and I only buy cells from a very reputable source (like Illumn.com).

Always use a good "ohm meter" to test resistance and check for shorts before using an atty on a mech.

Give yourself some headroom with your builds.

This is an excellent resource.

Steam Engine main page

 

[NU_FTW]

Thanks a lot for the replies.
Btw I already did quite a lot of research on liquids, watched a lot of videos about coil building and read the maintenance/safety measures for the batteries. The only thing I really have troubles understanding is the ohm law and the various "electronics" valors such as amperage, volts, current drain of the battery.
Do someone know a place where i can learn a bit of this argument?

Which is why for your safety you need to put in the time and research it. Know Ohms law inside and out then when you have your batteries you need to research those specific batteries and find true limitations of them so you know what not to do. Too many mech mods blowing up in peoples faces and venting due to either cheap re wrapped batteries or not knowing proper amps for batteries (generally causes of news articles). To put it in a similar concept if you draw more amps through your houses wiring than the wire is rated for it will flip a breaker, without that breaker it would heat the wires up and cause a fire, the wires are the battery in this case no it is not 1:1 direct cause but easy way of putting it in terms someone might understand. There are many Ohm calculators available, Ohm's law lock in the ohm catagory because that will not fluctuate put in your ohms and then your batteries when fully charged will be ~4.2 volts and during use will drop down to around 3.3 you will notice the taste change but with 4.2 being the high side that will give you your max amp draw.

 

[NU_FTW]

Always remember you are the safety when using a mech.

Stay below your cells (battery's) max continuous discharge rating.
**Many retailers flat out lie about this.**
I always use @Mooch 's blog to check out actual specs of a cell, and I only buy cells from a very reputable source (like Illumn.com).

Always use a good "ohm meter" to test resistance and check for shorts before using an atty on a mech.

Give yourself some headroom with your builds.

This is an excellent resource.

Steam Engine main page

What he said ^ . Read everything you can, take a few hour break and re read. It isnt something you want slipping your mind when using mech mods you dont want to accidently draw too much power or create a short. Good ohm meter good calculator and as he said Mooch's real specs not manufacturer specs on batteries. Know what you are doing inside and out, google proper use of mechanical mod vape and a lot of info will come up google ohms law vaping and a lot will come up get comfortable, dont be a news story drawing anti vaping eyes to what should be a safer experience than smoking analogs, even if the media tries to claim otherwise.

 

[KenD]

I like this dual parallel 26g build
at .25 ohms on my BFM mech that pulls about 17 amps @4.2v and using a 26650 batt rated at 30a I've been safe with this build..ramp up is quick I might add

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

What 26650 are you using? In "Mooch's recommended batteries" poster only the Ijoy is rated for 30 amps.

Sent from my M7_PLUS using Tapatalk

 

[Ben85]

Why is it that when someone has a preference everything else is "garbage"?

 

[smacksy]

What 26650 are you using? In "Mooch's recommended batteries" poster only the Ijoy is rated for 30 amps.

Sent from my M7_PLUS using Tapatalk

Well Ken if you must know I've been using this batt..

Eizfan gold 26650
It says 35A/65A/3500mAh
I don't even pull 20A with the build I'm using...So I think it could be at least a 25-30A 26650..Been using these in my BFM (mech) for over 3 mos now..mod does not get warm even chain vaping that .25 ohm build....

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

 

[classwife]

Moved to Mech Mods from General Vaping Discussion

 

[Baditude]

My problem is this:
When I see someone with a faux hybrid, I don't know if they know what they're doing or not.
So I walk away!

My nephew-in-law has been vaping for about a year (regulated mod). He told me recently that he had purchased his first mechanical mod and that the fire button had been getting hot during use. I took a look at it and wouldn't you know that it was a faux hybrid (direct battery) mech.

I took off the RBA to inspect the 510 center pin. It was extended, but not by much (not enough by my standards). I asked him if he knew how to make it longer. He said he did, and I told him not to vape with this setup until he extended it and why.

I said I couldn't be sure that this is why the fire button was getting hot, but it would be my first guess. He said that he knew that the center pin had to be extended, but didn't know how far.

 

[tj99959]

My nephew-in-law has been vaping for about a year (regulated mod). He told me recently that he had purchased his first mechanical mod and that the fire button had been getting hot during use. I took a look at it and wouldn't you know that it was a faux hybrid (direct battery) mech.

I took off the RBA to inspect the 510 center pin. It was extended, but not by much (not enough by my standards). I asked him if he knew how to make it longer. He said he did, and I told him not to vape with this setup until he extended it and why.

I said I couldn't be sure that this is why the fire button was getting hot, but it would be my first guess. He said that he knew that the center pin had to be extended, but didn't know how far.

Tell him to get a different mod. It's not like a mechanical mod has to brake the bank these days. A proper center pin only adds about 0.0001 ohms anyway.

 

[Baditude]

Tell him to get a different mod. A proper center pin only adds about 0.0001 ohms anyway.

I did already, but I doubt that he'll listen. You know the type. I told him that direct battery mods SCARE me and I'd never own/use one. It's just not worth the potential risk.

 

[tj99959]

Which is why for your safety you need to put in the time and research it. Know Ohms law inside and out then when you have your batteries you need to research those specific batteries and find true limitations of them so you know what not to do. Too many mech mods blowing up in peoples faces and venting due to either cheap re wrapped batteries or not knowing proper amps for batteries (generally causes of news articles). To put it in a similar concept if you draw more amps through your houses wiring than the wire is rated for it will flip a breaker, without that breaker it would heat the wires up and cause a fire, the wires are the battery in this case no it is not 1:1 direct cause but easy way of putting it in terms someone might understand. There are many Ohm calculators available, Ohm's law lock in the ohm catagory because that will not fluctuate put in your ohms and then your batteries when fully charged will be ~4.2 volts and during use will drop down to around 3.3 you will notice the taste change but with 4.2 being the high side that will give you your max amp draw.

This can be your best friend if you don't fully understand Ohm's Law.
Ohm's Law calculator

 

[gpjoe]

I'm not one for mandatory regulation; but if there's one vaping product I wish was never created, and wish the industry would voluntarily stop offering, it would be direct to battery 510 top caps, or 'faux hybrids', as some have called them.

That would be sad for a lot of folks that know how to use them safely - other than my Reos and Coppervape squonkers, all of my mechs are direct to battery.

Personally, I prefer being educated, sensible, and responsible for my own actions and well-being rather than have somebody else tell me what's in my best interest - simply because an ignorant user got hurt.

 

[SleeZy]

I did already, but I doubt that he'll listen. You know the type. I told him that direct battery mods SCARE me and I'd never own/use one. It's just not worth the potential risk.

I'm with ya!
Been using mechs for 2+ years now, yet i'm still afraid to even try using a hybrid.
I bought a bunch of hybrid kits (When i was new...) for my nemesis'es but well... i'm to afraid to use them to be honest. I thought i wanted em, but after some consideration it wasn't worth it.
It's just not worth the extra risk in my opinion. So they're just collecting dust.

 

[Ben85]

There is nothing wrong with faux hybrid connections if you know what you are doing. Lack of education causes problems, not the connection itself.

 

[Kprthevapr]

My new Rose Finch has a center pin, first mod I've used in a couple of years that isn't direct to battery

 

[smacksy]

All my mechs use a hybrid topcap..it has a much lower voltage drop at the coils than a mod with a pin in the circuit, making for a harder hit subohm....Back in the day voltage drop was a big deal on mechs before these box mods came out that can subohm today..
The lower the voltage drop on my mechs meant more power from a fixed batt to my coils..
Also copper was best conductor, and my mechs have copper contacts, copper switch, copper magnetic buttons..
Been vaping these two BFM mechs for a number of years now.. Had the all copper BFM first, and got the stainless model later for use on the road driving my 18 wheeler across this country of ours..

To check voltage drop I always used this simple inline meter..using my hybrid topcaps I always made sure the pin on my atties protruded at least 2mm for safety..they still vape good today..[emoji12]

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

 

[budd77]

I can't believe people are scared to use a direct to battery mech. How difficult is it to look at the 510 pin on the atty you want to use. It's pretty simple. Don't use an atty with a floating 510 like an aspire Atlantis. Make sure the positive part of the 510 protrudes. It doesn't have to protrude a lot. It just had to protrude. I've never owned a mech that wasn't direct to battery.

 

[KenD]

I can't believe that people get that much of a lower voltage drop using direct to battery mods/top caps. I never got that when using mechs.

Sent from my M7_PLUS using Tapatalk

 

[budd77]

I can't believe that people get that much of a lower voltage drop using direct to battery mods/top caps. I never got that when using mechs.

Sent from my M7_PLUS using Tapatalk

I can't believe that people get that much of a lower voltage drop using direct to battery mods/top caps. I never got that when using mechs.

Sent from my M7_PLUS using Tapatalk

I know that a lot of people claim that the direct to battery mods have less voltage drop. The Broadside is supposed to be one of the hardest hitting mechs and it has an adjustable centre pin. I've never owned a mech with an adjustable 510(and never will) so I can't say if it causes more voltage drop. I dont like them because you have to adjust a dumb pin for battery rattle. I use mods that have battery rattle adjustment in button like a Smpl or top hat adjustment like an Av or my personal favorite Dragon Mod.

 

[smacksy]

oops! double post, (deleted)..my bad

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk