Questions regarding first mech mod

[r055co]

Most Pinoy mods are IME over rated.

I cant recommend the Revolver unless you enjoy modifying your gear to fix design flaws.

With the GI Revolver, the brass 510 is press-fit into the aluminum body.
When installing an atomizer, the center pin pushes the entire brass 510 threaded piece out of the mod.

Its a serious design flaw that makes it both dangerous and can damage your gear.
a
Its a simple fix but unacceptable in any mod at any price.

View attachment 635703

Oh it depends on what you get, my favorite are in no certain order just listing for they are all top notch in my book and love them all

Tahiti Mod
Margarita
Anubis
Pilak Panther
Abaddon
Samael
Nookie V3
Sith V2 quad parallel
Lethal Triple parallel

They're all simply amazing parallel Mods, super easy to maintain, clean and use. They all hit amazingly hard, perform wonderfully. Now for Tubes, tubes are tubes, basic and my favorite tubes are US made and in all honesty don't own any Pinoy Tube Mod's.

 

[yvaiwhy]

Oh it depends on what you get, my favorite are in no certain order just listing for they are all top notch in my book and love them all

Tahiti Mod
Margarita
Anubis
Pilak Panther
Abaddon
Samael
Nookie V3
Sith V2

They're all simply amazing parallel Mods, super easy to maintain, clean and use. They all hit amazingly hard, perform wonderfully. Now for Tubes, tubes are tubes, basic and my favorite tubes are US made and in all honesty don't own any Pinoy Tube Mod's.

All tubes at the moment. But need to have a good parallel. I'll have a look at the stuff you've listed [emoji106]


2+2=5 [emoji102]

 

[r055co]

All tubes at the moment. But need to have a good parallel. I'll have a look at the stuff you've listed [emoji106]


2+2=5 [emoji102]

Take a serious look at the Nookie V3, that one probably is my favorite parallel. Convicted Vapes has an excellent review on it on Youtube, check it out.

 

[Bad Ninja]

Oh it depends on what you get, my favorite are in no certain order just listing for they are all top notch in my book and love them all

Tahiti Mod
Margarita
Anubis
Pilak Panther
Abaddon
Samael
Nookie V3
Sith V2 quad parallel
Lethal Triple parallel

They're all simply amazing parallel Mods, super easy to maintain, clean and use. They all hit amazingly hard, perform wonderfully. Now for Tubes, tubes are tubes, basic and my favorite tubes are US made and in all honesty don't own any Pinoy Tube Mod's.

Over rated In My Experience.

I have about 100 mechs give or take a dozen.

Grand Vapor's overpriced, over hyped junk turned me off the Pinoy bandwagon years ago.

The pinoy mods Ive handled lately seem to be "related" to the GI revolver...

"missed it by that much".

Tiny obvious design errors, that make a really nice mod, a nightmare to live with.

Pinoy just doesnt scream quality to me.

 

[nalo_b]

Although I don't own one I also would recommend the broadside as a first mod. I own two subzero's and love them but the delrin lining in the broadside makes it a lot safer. I seen big Lou put an unwrapped battery in his just for demonstration. Does anyone know if the subzero hybrid rda fits on the broadside in hybrid mode? I got too used to the shorty's size

 

[r055co]

Over rated In My Experience.

I have about 100 mechs give or take a dozen.

Grand Vapor's overpriced, over hyped junk turned me off the Pinoy bandwagon years ago.

The pinoy mods Ive handled lately seem to be "related" to the GI revolver...

"missed it by that much".
View attachment 636009
Tiny obvious design errors, that make a really nice mod, a nightmare to live with.

Pinoy just doesnt scream quality to me.

I've had the complete opposite experience, the quality I've got from the Pinoy gear is amazing. I've had a couple that have only been OK. But the rest no where has anywhere else has come close to the quality and performance. And I'm over 60 mechs now. Crap I'm seeing is coming out of Europe with plastic tanks at obscene prices.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

 

[Bad Ninja]

I've had the complete opposite experience, the quality I've got from the Pinoy gear is amazing. I've had a couple that have only been OK. But the rest no where has anywhere else has come close to the quality and performance. And I'm over 60 mechs now. Crap I'm seeing is coming out of Europe with plastic tanks at obscene prices.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

I feel the same way about the overpriced plastic tanks....and brass and copper.
Plastic is actually harder to work with and requires more specialized equipment.

Apparently the economy is outstanding in the Philippines, because a simple threaded soft copper tube with a horn switch cost $300usd!
Lol.


But I digress, my point was to the OP that there's alot of hype in the industry and it usually has nothing to do with quality.

I have $10 chinese clones that are made better than $300 authentics.

Most of us buy authentics to own an original example of a design, not because they are better made than Chinese clones, because IME they usually aren't.

BTW, $300US is about 15,000PHP, which is about the average monthly wage in the Philippines. Quite a lick for a threaded tube.

 

[Ben85]

Although I don't own one I also would recommend the broadside as a first mod. I own two subzero's and love them but the delrin lining in the broadside makes it a lot safer. I seen big Lou put an unwrapped battery in his just for demonstration. Does anyone know if the subzero hybrid rda fits on the broadside in hybrid mode? I got too used to the shorty's size

The broadside is 25mm, so highly unlikely. However, I can check when I get home and report back.

 

[r055co]

I feel the same way about the overpriced plastic tanks....and brass and copper.
Plastic is actually harder to work with and requires more specialized equipment.

Apparently the economy is outstanding in the Philippines, because a simple threaded soft copper tube with a horn switch cost $300usd!
Lol.


But I digress, my point was to the OP that there's alot of hype in the industry and it usually has nothing to do with quality.

I have $10 chinese clones that are made better than $300 authentics.

Most of us buy authentics to own an original example of a design, not because they are better made than Chinese clones, because IME they usually aren't.

BTW, $300US is about 15,000PHP, which is about the average monthly wage in the Philippines. Quite a lick for a threaded tube.

$300 Tube's, you must be referring to JD Tech, very overpriced and not worth it.
Clones are very much hit and miss, I have a few and have compared some with the Authentic's I own and there is a definite difference. Not only in quality of machining but also materials and performance.

 

[Bad Ninja]

$300 Tube's, you must be referring to JD Tech, very overpriced and not worth it.
Clones are very much hit and miss, I have a few and have compared some with the Authentic's I own and there is a definite difference. Not only in quality of machining but also materials and performance.

I find the opposite. Authentics are Very hit and miss.

Clones are not what they were a few years ago.
In my experience, you are wrong and seem to have some misinformation.
Especially about materials and equipment used, but lets stay within the context of the OP.
(Example: there isnt a "high" or "low" quality brass. The differences determine which is best for the intended application eletrical conductivity, anti corrosive, strength etc .)

My point again, is not all mods are equal, and "authentic" or "Pinoy" doesnt guarantee quality. In fact it rarely does these days.

Always
Check reviews and discussions on reputable sites before buying.
Spend the time and actually do the research and you wont be disappointed.

 

[gpjoe]

Do you actually believe that doing the calculation using a higher voltage means that the amp draw will be higher in actual use!?

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He (yvaiwhy) is obviously misinformed. If it wasn't dangerous, it would be hilarious. It's sad because he really believes he is correct to the point of insulting other members.

Maybe a language issue? IDK, but he's dead wrong.

 

[budd77]

I have no idea what his intentions are but I am not going to endorse over drawing batteries to anyone else. Specially someone who is just picking up the first tube.

️


2+2=5

He is the one reliable source when it comes to anything batteries [emoji106] But people like Ben talking without knowledge is a disaster. Sure, maybe I mistakenly read his post as him pro over drawing the Battery. Or he edited the post. If he had a clue of what he was talking about he wouldn't even calculate at 4.2. Hence he later agreed that 3.7 is indeed safe. But questioned why. We all need to educate ourselves and help other within our knowledge eh [emoji4]


2+2=5 [emoji102]

you need to take your head out of your ... and reread what Ben is trying to tell you. You need to calculate or at least know the maximum amps that could be drawn. That's why you use 4.2 volts. Calculating at 4.2 volts is way safer than at 3.7.

 

[nalo_b]

The broadside is 25mm, so highly unlikely. However, I can check when I get home and report back.

How did it go Ben?

 

[stormjib]

Why do we take voltage drop into account at all? It seems to me that what is important is the current leaving the battery, not how much gets to the coil...am I missing something? My understanding of voltage drop is loss in transmission, so while the coil may only see 3.8 volts or whatever, isn't the battery still discharging at 4.2 for the brief time before its own voltage drops? I am not trying to troll, just trying to understand. I have always used 4.2 or 8.4 in my calculations, but never really thought much about it until I read this thread. I calculate my amperage draw, and I only use good quality, authentic batteries, and sometimes exceed the cdr of the battery by a moderate amount, and I've never even gotten a battery hot, aside from one time when I first started using hybrids...not going to do that again, scared a little bit of poo out of me. I'm talking like maybe drawing 35 amps, by calculation, using 4.2 volts in the equation, and LG HB6 batteries, rated at 30 amps CDR....if I can use 3.7 and 7.4 in my calculations, I can build lower. This is a little confusing to me, but I know from experience that it's not that big a deal, as long as my coils are within the range that I like, about .12-.2 on a tube. Am I missing something?

 

[Ben85]

How did it go Ben?

Apologies, I completely forgot to get back to you.

As expected, it was a no go.

 

[KenD]

Why do we take voltage drop into account at all? It seems to me that what is important is the current leaving the battery, not how much gets to the coil...am I missing something? My understanding of voltage drop is loss in transmission, so while the coil may only see 3.8 volts or whatever, isn't the battery still discharging at 4.2 for the brief time before its own voltage drops? I am not trying to troll, just trying to understand. I have always used 4.2 or 8.4 in my calculations, but never really thought much about it until I read this thread. I calculate my amperage draw, and I only use good quality, authentic batteries, and sometimes exceed the cdr of the battery by a moderate amount, and I've never even gotten a battery hot, aside from one time when I first started using hybrids...not going to do that again, scared a little bit of poo out of me. I'm talking like maybe drawing 35 amps, by calculation, using 4.2 volts in the equation, and LG HB6 batteries, rated at 30 amps CDR....if I can use 3.7 and 7.4 in my calculations, I can build lower. This is a little confusing to me, but I know from experience that it's not that big a deal, as long as my coils are within the range that I like, about .12-.2 on a tube. Am I missing something?

This is something I've been wondering about as well. I use the full battery charge in my calculations as safety is important to me (not that I use mechs much nowadays).

Sent from my K6000 Pro using Tapatalk

 

[nalo_b]

Apologies, I completely forgot to get back to you.

As expected, it was a no go.

No problem just wanted to know for sure before I pull the trigger on one. Thank you!

 

[Skeintastic]

I believe that calculating using 4v for your safety is far more realistic and practical. Let alone even numbers are easier to bro calc.

That said, I use .15-.18 ohm coils and lg hb2s for my better copper and brass mods (because aliens), .2-.3 ohm's for better clones and vtc5s for my better clones and aluminum mods, and .3+ with Samsung 25rs for stainless steel mods.

My personal belief is that heat dissipation is the primary fear to be had when battery safety comes to question. Build within amp limits and feel your batteries.

 

[gpjoe]

Why do we take voltage drop into account at all? It seems to me that what is important is the current leaving the battery, not how much gets to the coil...am I missing something? My understanding of voltage drop is loss in transmission, so while the coil may only see 3.8 volts or whatever, isn't the battery still discharging at 4.2 for the brief time before its own voltage drops? I am not trying to troll, just trying to understand. I have always used 4.2 or 8.4 in my calculations, but never really thought much about it until I read this thread. I calculate my amperage draw, and I only use good quality, authentic batteries, and sometimes exceed the cdr of the battery by a moderate amount, and I've never even gotten a battery hot, aside from one time when I first started using hybrids...not going to do that again, scared a little bit of poo out of me. I'm talking like maybe drawing 35 amps, by calculation, using 4.2 volts in the equation, and LG HB6 batteries, rated at 30 amps CDR....if I can use 3.7 and 7.4 in my calculations, I can build lower. This is a little confusing to me, but I know from experience that it's not that big a deal, as long as my coils are within the range that I like, about .12-.2 on a tube. Am I missing something?

Sounds like you have a good understanding.

Even if your batteries are at a true 4.2V some will argue that 4.2V is never actually seen at the load (coil). This is true because every connection/joint in a mech mod has some resistance, and there is a voltage drop, or loss, across these points.

So, if you have 4.2V at the battery and a high resistance at the button of your tube mech, you can drop a high percentage of the voltage at the switch and it won't be available to the coil in your atty. In extreme cases the resistance - at the switch in this example - can cause a high enough voltage drop that it actually heats up causing a "hot button".

Keeping your connections clean and tight eliminates a lot of the V drop, but there will always be some loss. To be safe though - it is always better to assume the full 4.2V is available to your coil.

It's called "erring on the side of caution".

 

[Kotton]

Sorry if i interrupt your discussion here..... but i Went with a RigMod V3, a Tugboat V3 and a Switch Mod. So far so good.