Yes I see it now. I took another look at the schematic and there it was right in front of me. Thanks
Raptor Flip-Top VV Mod with 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
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Yes I see it now. I took another look at the schematic and there it was right in front of me. Thanks
Wow, what fun! Three days researching and ordering parts and I only got 30 more pages on this great thread to go. Help I'm going bug-eyed. But I think I've got most of the parts ordered and on the way. One of my orders from Digikey gets here tomorrow. The problem is I keep seeing neat new stuff in this thead to buy. That's it, no more ordering until this mod is done. Right!!!
Hey thanks everyone, for the great ideas and manu for this great project.
Hey thanks everyone, for the great ideas and manu for this great project.
I have a quick question for anyone using lipo setup on this build. I will be using high amp connectors such as xt60 or 90 that are standard to lipo so if I adapt the + wire from master switch and 1 wire from a mini ground lug could I eliminate the p-fet and fuses in the circuit given that I have a master switch with high enough amp rating? Idea being that it would be impossible to reverse polarity. Also I have read that there is no way to use n-fet with this board but what If I just wanted to use it so I can control the board with a smaller amp rated switch PRK22J5DBBNN CHERRY | Mouser
Decided to use fuses anyways because I will make this mod interchangeable from lipo to tri or quad 18650's via xt-60 connection.
Anybody by chance have a link that's current to someplace that sells Raptor 20a breakout boards?
You can use the SUP75P03-07-E3 P-FET which is what I used before switching to the smaller dpak one. If space is at a premium in your mod and you need the smaller dpak sized P-FET, search for another one that has the same or similar specs as the IPD042P03L3G or SUP75P03-07-E3.
hello. Can I see your box 1590g after after shaving it on a belt sander with atomizer? how much exactly is it located? Does it give the desired result? I am from belarus. google translateHere's what my box ended up looking like after shaving it on a belt sander, I like the contrast with the black. Got everything to fit (pfet, nfet and voltmeter circuits). My battery holder works great. What can I say, I'm amazed I was able to squeeze it all in on my first try.
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Mamu, or anyone that can help,
So I completed my Raptor box and as soon as I connect an attie, it starts auto firing. I have triple checked the wiring diagram and looked for solder bridges, but can't seem to find what is causing this. I have everything insulated with heat shrink and looked for possible shorts. If I turn the pot, it cranks up the voltage but the firing switch does absolutely nothing. I have read all 43 pages in these forums and can't find an answer. I gutted the entire box to look for errors, replaced the 4.7k resistor with a new one thinking the other one wasn't making a good connection, and was still having the same problem so I decided to start over from scratch. Finished building a brand new one with all new parts, put the batts in, and as soon as I connect an attie, it starts auto firing yet again :/ I'm just about ready to give up but I've invested so much time and effort and money into this project that I thought maybe I'd ask you guys before deciding to completely give up. If anyone can help, or has had this problem before and knows how to fix it, please let me know what to do. I will forever be in your debt. Thanks in advance
So I completed my Raptor box and as soon as I connect an attie, it starts auto firing. I have triple checked the wiring diagram and looked for solder bridges, but can't seem to find what is causing this. I have everything insulated with heat shrink and looked for possible shorts. If I turn the pot, it cranks up the voltage but the firing switch does absolutely nothing. I have read all 43 pages in these forums and can't find an answer. I gutted the entire box to look for errors, replaced the 4.7k resistor with a new one thinking the other one wasn't making a good connection, and was still having the same problem so I decided to start over from scratch. Finished building a brand new one with all new parts, put the batts in, and as soon as I connect an attie, it starts auto firing yet again :/ I'm just about ready to give up but I've invested so much time and effort and money into this project that I thought maybe I'd ask you guys before deciding to completely give up. If anyone can help, or has had this problem before and knows how to fix it, please let me know what to do. I will forever be in your debt. Thanks in advance
I was wondering where the best place to ground the circuit to was. I wanted to make sure I knew everything needed before I started to build. In non vape applications I have always grounded to the box that I was building in but I don't know where for a vape mod.
No, my multimeter is broken :/ But I tried 2 different switches thinking that might be the problem. Does the switch have to be a certain rating? I didn't think it would matter in a regulated device, no?
Alright so I checked both switches with a multimeter for continuity and both switches made a tone when I pressed the button
SpEeDy314 - there's only a few things that would cause auto-firing here. There is no 4.7K pull-down resistor across the on/off pin and ground, or it is a loose solder connection with the resistor and the pins. Double-check that you indeed soldered the resistor across the on/off pin and ground. The other thing would be a faulty fire switch or a NC switch was used instead of an NO switch.
Mamu, thank you. I will check both of those, and see if that works. Thanks again!
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