Raptor Flip-Top VV Mod with 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...

[Alexander Mundy]

Breaktru has already done work with this and has a schematic for adding a digital pot in a couple of his modding threads at his forum.

Modding

I apologize if I am wrong, but Breaktru's (that I am aware of) were for up converters and worked off 1 cell not 2. I Couldn't find a currently produced digital pot that was suitable and would take the voltage from 2 cells when I was trying to find a similar solution for a down converter. Even if a regulator was used the max voltage at the pot pins was not high enough to connect to the converter.

 

[mamu]

Hi mamu, I finally got around to changing the the diode to the 6.2v. Working great for the lipo flat pack. Clic pic for video.

Cool and thanks for the update BJ! I still have the 5.6v zener in mine and doing aok at 6v loaded cutoff and the batts seem to be more balanced now after several charges so not noticing much of a lead batt difference.

I apologize if I am wrong, but Breaktru's (that I am aware of) were for up converters and worked off 1 cell not 2. I Couldn't find a currently produced digital pot that was suitable and would take the voltage from 2 cells when I was trying to find a similar solution for a down converter. Even if a regulator was used the max voltage at the pot pins was not high enough to connect to the converter.

Thanks for the explanation, Alexander. I knew Breaktru had done some work with a digital pot. I haven't worked with a digital pot so wasn't paying attention to the difference in converters used.

 

[Rapture]

Features:
Naos Raptor 20A, 120W dc/dc converter
output voltage range 3.3v to 6v
external 18A fuse
external zener diode for low voltage cutoff of 6v
external 2x22uF input capacitors
dual 18650 batts

This Raptor mod definitely has become my fave mod since getting it done last week - most power packed awesome vape beast I've made to date!

It does hit hard for the voltage. I usually vape my 1.5 ohm dual coil rba at around 5.1v and sometimes a little higher, but I get a comparable hit at 4.7v with this mod. When I took that first hit dialed in at 5.1v, I almost choked. holy moly I thought, so I dialed it down to where I get the same hit I'm used to. Same with the 0.8 ohm nano coil rda - I had to dial that down too.

During testing I attached a 0.3 ohm coil and ran it at 5v (83W and 17A) and both converter and batts (30A Sony 18650) handled the load aok - and no, didn't take a toke off that.

The batts I've tested with this mod are the Sony 18650 30A, Orbtronic 18650 30A, the Efest 18650 30A, and the MNKE 18650 30A batts. I have the LG LGDAHE21865 2500mAh 30A batts (13mOhm internal resistance) on order and will be testing with those when I get them.

The LG batts may change this, but so far the Sony batt is far superior to all that I've tested. It has the lowest internal resistance (12mOhm) of all the 30A 18650 batts and handles the load both input and output without so much as a blink all the way down to cutoff voltage of 6.2v unloaded (6v loaded).

The Orbtronic (19mOhm internal resistance) gave hiccups around 6.6 volts and cut out at 6.5v unloaded (dropped to 6v loaded). With its higher mAh vs the Sony mAh, it did give a long vape time before cutting out, but that higher internal resistance is a hindrance.

Both the Efest and MNKE had horrible horrible input/ouput voltage drops under load and cut out around 6.8v-6.9v unloaded (dropped to 6v loaded). I wouldn't recommend either of those batts for use in our mods.

Input voltage drop varies between 0.1v - 0.2v with the Sony batts and 0.2v - 0.5v with the Orbtronic batts.

Output voltage drop varies between 0.0v - 0.1v with the Sony batts and 0.1v - 0.3v with the Orbtronic batts.

All done and getting ready to close er up...

Takes 2, 18650 batts... yes - the batts are in series - I wired the batt contacts so both batts are oriented the same way... no confusion with which batt goes up and which batt goes down especially since both batt holders are marked with + at the top and - at the bottom...

Displays input voltage...

Displays output voltage... range 3.3v - 6v (the tolerances of the resister plus POT I'm actually getting 3.39v - 6.1v with this build) ...

109mm x 58mm x 31mm...

Parts list:
SoShine dual channel 18650 charger (fasttech)

Naos Rapter (NSR020A0X43Z) 20A, 120W DC/DC Converter (digikey, mouser)

Fire switch (PV5S64011) (digikey, mouser)

2x22uF capacitors wired in parallel (C3225X5R1C226K250AA) (many thanks to CraigHB for recommendation on the input capacitor) (digikey, mouser) or GRM32CF51C226ZA12L (digikey, mouser)

2x9A fuses wired in parallel (650-RGEF900) (digikey, mouser)

200 ohm POT (PT10MH01-201A2020) (mouser)

Shaft for 200 ohm POT (JPEPL5012NE or 5116) (mouser)

POT knob of your choice that accommodates the size of shaft you've chosen (if using a shaft, a knob is not necessarily required)

220 ohm and 7.5K ohm resisters, and 5.6v zener diode (various sites)

Mini 3-position slide switch (on/off/on) (I used Apem TG39P000000)

1S-6S voltage reader (ebay)

2x 18650 batts (recommend 30A discharge rating)

Wiring guide... I used 20ga for input/output/voltage reader, 22ga for the mini slide switch and POT...

Note1: do not attempt this build if you are not familiar with battery safety and electronics safety. If you attempt this build, you do so solely at your own risk.

Note2: if you do build this mod, do not bypass adding the external fuses - they protect you and the entire circuit from a potentially faulty or unstable battery.

Note3: if you do build this mod, do not bypass the zener diode - it provides a safe voltage cutoff of 6v. Without it, the voltage will go all the way down to the converter default of 4.1v unless the batt's undervoltage protection kicks in - but you can't always rely on that.

Note4: make note to switch batt positions at mid voltage range, or switch the lead batt to the non-lead batt after charging.

Note5: currently, the only batteries recommended for use in this mod are the Sony 18650 US18650VTC3 30A 1600mAh batts (most preferred) or the Orbtronic SX30 18650 30A 2100mAh.

Is this the most updated parts list? anything else to be needed. Is your mod still working ok?

 

[Rapture]

where do you get the flush 510 connectors been looking everywhere. Are they one shorty adapter at madvapes? please help

 

[jakl_53]

Some people have been using the one from fatdaddyvapes. I would also be interested in how is performing with the parts you used. Also i have almost everything ordered except the pfet. The only two places i found them won't have them in Stock for a few months now. Any alternatives or other places to order? Im not too worried about it but would like that extra later of protection.

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[mamu]

Is this the most updated parts list? anything else to be needed. Is your mod still working ok?

Yes, Raptor is working aok.

The only thing I have changed since the initial build is adding a P-FET for full reverse polarity protection.

Some people have been using the one from fatdaddyvapes. I would also be interested in how is performing with the parts you used. Also i have almost everything ordered except the pfet. The only two places i found them won't have them in Stock for a few months now. Any alternatives or other places to order? Im not too worried about it but would like that extra later of protection.

There are 2 P-FETs I've tested that work aok with Raptor, and also the OKR, for full reverse polarity protection - an smd one and a leaded one. Neither adversely affect the circuit or cause voltage loss and do a great job in protecting the batts and the entire circuit if you inadvertently place the batts in backwards.

Here are the specs for each:
Si7157DP (smd)
Drain to Source Voltage (Vdss) - 20V
Current - Continuous Drain (Id) @ 25°C - 46.5A (Ta)
Rds On (Max) @ Id, Vgs - 1.6 mOhm @ 25A, 10V
Vgs(th) (Max) @ Id - 1.4V @ 250µA
Gate Charge (Qg) @ Vgs - 625nC @ 10V
Input Capacitance (Ciss) @ Vds - 22000pF @ 10V
Power - Max - 6.25W


SUP75P03-07-E3 (leaded)
Drain to Source Voltage (Vdss) - 30V
Current - Continuous Drain (Id) @ 25°C - 75A (Tc)
Rds On (Max) @ Id, Vgs - 7 mOhm @ 30A, 10V
Vgs(th) (Max) @ Id - 3V @ 250µA
Gate Charge (Qg) @ Vgs - 240nC @ 10V
Input Capacitance (Ciss) @ Vds - 9000pF @ 25V
Power - Max - 3.75W
Mounting Type - Through Hole

Both digikey and mouser have the leaded P-FET (SUP75P03-07-E3) in stock and it's a LOT easier to work with and wire than the smd one.

 

[Rapture]

Some people have been using the one from fatdaddyvapes. I would also be interested in how is performing with the parts you used. Also i have almost everything ordered except the pfet. The only two places i found them won't have them in Stock for a few months now. Any alternatives or other places to order? Im not too worried about it but would like that extra later of protection.

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Ok thanks. after researching further I found Mr. Brown to be using the fatdaddyvapes too. Im digging the whole screw on the project box as opposed to gluing it and all.

 

[Rapture]

Yes, Raptor is working aok.

The only thing I have changed since the initial build is adding a P-FET for full reverse polarity protection.



There are 2 P-FETs I've tested that work aok with Raptor, and also the OKR, for full reverse polarity protection - an smd one and a leaded one. Neither adversely affect the circuit or cause voltage loss and do a great job in protecting the batts and the entire circuit if you inadvertently place the batts in backwards.

Here are the specs for each:
Si7157DP (smd)
Drain to Source Voltage (Vdss) - 20V
Current - Continuous Drain (Id) @ 25°C - 46.5A (Ta)
Rds On (Max) @ Id, Vgs - 1.6 mOhm @ 25A, 10V
Vgs(th) (Max) @ Id - 1.4V @ 250µA
Gate Charge (Qg) @ Vgs - 625nC @ 10V
Input Capacitance (Ciss) @ Vds - 22000pF @ 10V
Power - Max - 6.25W


SUP75P03-07-E3 (leaded)
Drain to Source Voltage (Vdss) - 30V
Current - Continuous Drain (Id) @ 25°C - 75A (Tc)
Rds On (Max) @ Id, Vgs - 7 mOhm @ 30A, 10V
Vgs(th) (Max) @ Id - 3V @ 250µA
Gate Charge (Qg) @ Vgs - 240nC @ 10V
Input Capacitance (Ciss) @ Vds - 9000pF @ 25V
Power - Max - 3.75W
Mounting Type - Through Hole

Both digikey and mouser have the leaded P-FET (SUP75P03-07-E3) in stock and it's a LOT easier to work with and wire than the smd one.

thanks ill be looking in to this soon. About the 5.6v zener diode. I see it at mouser but there is a ton of different ones can you post a part number for that. Sorry if this has already been discussed.

 

[Rapture]

I am also confused about where the "220 ohm and 7.5K ohm resisters, and 5.6v zener diode" go...

Are they supposed to be soldered across the 2 prongs coming out of the chip. Sorry for being a total noob here. Im not used to being a noob. But we are all a noob at something.

 

[Rapture]

Big props to mamu for figuring all this out for us. I cant even begin to think of how hard this must have been. Im having a difficult time and all the parts and directions are right in front of my face. thanks so much mamu.

another question. will this work for the volt reader.
1S 6S RC LiPo Battery Voltage Test Tester Checker Indicator 2 8V 25 2V D9 | eBay

 

[Rapture]

I'm sorry BJ - I was browsing this thread and realized I had missed your question.

Here's the zener I used: BZX55B5V6-TR BZX55B5V6-TR Vishay Semiconductors | Mouser

thanks i found my answer after i asked. sorry

 

[Rapture]

As Visus said, there is no polarity on ceramic caps.

I reckon you could try 2x22uF leaded tant caps and not have any issues. From what I've been reading and from Craig's explanations about caps in our application, ceramic caps are preferred nowadays over tant caps due to its very low ESR and excellent reliability. And like with fuses where 2x in parallel will double the current and half the resistance, 2x caps in parallel will double the capacitance and lower the resistance (ESR) to get the least amount of impedence on the circuit.

For the OKR-T10 I'm working on now I'm using a 22uF ceramic cap on the input. But that's optional for the OKR, I use an input cap for increased stability to reduce shock on the converter from the repeated and frequent firing that we do and as recommended by the Murata rep when I was using the OKR-T6. Reduced shock = longer life of the converter.

The Raptor though it's not optional as it requires input caps.

I use tweezers to line the 2 caps one on top of the other, then swipe one end with a dab of flux using a toothpick, then lightly solder the caps together, then do the same for the other end.

Then you can solder a wire to each end, or you can make a solder bridge from one end of the cap soldered to one pin on the board to the other end of the cap soldered to the other pin on the board, or what I do is mount the caps to a 1x3 piece of veroboard where I dremeled off the copper of the center portion.

You have to be very careful with these surface mounted pieces as the soldered ends will break off if any kind of stress or torque on them, so I find that mounting to a piece of veroboard gives protection and security to the ends.

And yes, with these old eyes, I do everything under a lighted magnifier.

Here's an example of how I do the surface mount fuses for the DNA20...

The fuses need a 1x4 piece of veroboard with the copper removed from the center portion...

I solder the fuses and the wires to the veroboard...

I put shrink tube over the fuses and ends...

Running two caps in parrell would mean to need to have the wire split into 2. Or just stack the caps and solder them together then run one wire to each end. Should I buy some of this board at mouser too. Do you have a pic of the caps and fuses before putting the shrink wrap on?

 

[mamu]

Running two caps in parrell would mean to need to have the wire split into 2. Or just stack the caps and solder them together then run one wire to each end. Should I buy some of this board at mouser too. Do you have a pic of the caps and fuses before putting the shrink wrap on?

Yes, to parallel just stack the caps and fuses one on top of the other, solder the ends together, then run a wire off each end. I don't always use the board - depends on how small the part is.

Example of smd and leaded fuses paralleled together...

 

[BJ43]

mamu, curious why you use the 1s 6s meter instead of these. With your small boxes these .28 are much smaller, two wires and have an adjustment pot. Here are the two sizes two wire meters. The larger is the same size as the 1s 6s. Another advantage of these two wire meters, they do not flash. Bap has screen frames at shapeways for both sizes.

Mini 0 28" DC 2 5 30V Blue Green Red Digital Voltage Panel Meter Voltmeter | eBay

 

[mamu]

I've seen the smaller version meters and would love to use them, but I have a stash of the 1s 6s meters left over from when I was making OKR mods.

I wish I wouldn't stock up on things. I have tons of parts I'll prob never use in a lifetime of modding.

 

[jakl_53]

I just ordered my parts and my meter looks different than the one pictured. It doesn't have a lead coming off it. It just has a bunch of pins on the bottom.

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[mamu]

I just ordered my parts and my meter looks different than the one pictured. It doesn't have a lead coming off it. It just has a bunch of pins on the bottom.

That would be the 1S 6S meter, jakl.

You don't need all the pins, just the 2 on the right (with the back side facing). To save space, I gently rock that pin bar back and forth til it breaks off, then de-solder the holes that I'm going to use, then solder + and - wires through those holes.

 

[Rapture]

That would be the 1S 6S meter, jakl.

You don't need all the pins, just the 2 on the right (with the back side facing). To save space, I gently rock that pin bar back and forth til it breaks off, then de-solder the holes that I'm going to use, then solder + and - wires through those holes.

Thanks for posting this. Which meter is better or is it just preference. The ones with the wire seem to be easy to put in. Is one bigger than the other?

It also says on ebay the 1s 6s is for lipo battery's is it ok to use this one

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[Rapture]

What type if solder are you guys using? What type if flux? Is it safe to solder this in my apartment with a fan going and the windows open? Do I need to wear a dust mask or anything?


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[Rapture]

could someone post part numbers for these on mouser. There are too many options

"220 ohm and 7.5K ohm resisters, and 5.6v zener diode"