Re- building a stock, throw away vertical coil, perfectly done.

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Gahh

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Just got a 100 pack of NR-R-Nr ( NiCr - SS - NiCr ) wire from fastech. $1.99 for 100.. (The SS wire part is 28ga. )
This is the key coil wire to use when re-building the vertical coils in the throw away coils.
Using the largest diameter, 3.5 on a multi sized coil jig (rod), wrap the SS part around 5 turns making it 5/8" long, Cut 5/8" wide strip of the good cotton, peel in half, place the firm cotton side on the coil when starting the wrapping, ( bury the negative lead after a wrap ),spin into the coil housing, using the rod jig to push it down to the right height, bend the negative lead, put the boot connecter on, bend the positive lead, slide the positive post on, snip leads close to the housing and you should be good as new.
I slide a 3.5 bit into the coil when priming with juice, then spin it out to make sure the coil chimney is left open to the 3.5mm diameter.
Finish ohm reading is .57 ....
Best Vertical Coil I have ever built. Actually gets more air flow than the stock Aspire & Arctic coils.... All at the cost of 0.02Cents,, ohhh + the cotton...
One other NOTE: I love the sweet juices that gunk the coils up quickly. Keeping the flavor fresh, its needed to get the gunked coil & cotton changed out. Or vape the flavor of CRAP.....
 
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johnnyelevator

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Just got a 100 pack of NR-R-Nr ( NiCr - SS - NiCr ) wire from fastech. $1.99 for 100.. (The SS wire part is 28ga. )
This is the key coil wire to use when re-building the vertical coils in the throw away coils.
Using the largest diameter, 3.5 on a multi sized coil jig (rod), wrap the SS part around 5 turns, 3/4" wide strip of the good cotton, peel in half, place the firm cotton side on the coil when starting the wrapping, ( bury the negative lead after a wrap ),spin into the coil housing, using the rod jig to push it down to the right height, bend the negative lead, put the boot connecter on, bend the positive lead, snip close to the housing and you should be good as new.
I slide a 3.5 bit into the coil when priming with juice, then spin it out to make sure the coil chimney is left open to the 3.5mm diameter.
Finish ohm reading is .57 ....
Best Vertical Coil I have ever built. Actually gets more air flow than the stock Aspire & Arctic coils.... All at the cost of 0.02Cents,, ohhh + the cotton...
Congratulations. This is awesome.
would really help if you can post pics of each step.
 
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93gc40

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That's how I learned to build... only I used those fasttech wires in Protank and nautilus heads...

Are you sure those legs are nichrome? Normally they are nickel or some other ultra low resistance wire..... using high resistance wire on the legs with lower resistance wire for the coil doesn't make sense.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk
 

zoiDman

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Just got a 100 pack of NR-R-Nr ( NiCr - SS - NiCr ) wire from fastech. $1.99 for 100.. (The SS wire part is 28ga. )
This is the key coil wire to use when re-building the vertical coils in the throw away coils.
Using the largest diameter, 3.5 on a multi sized coil jig (rod), wrap the SS part around 5 turns making it 5/8" long, Cut 5/8" wide strip of the good cotton, peel in half, place the firm cotton side on the coil when starting the wrapping, ( bury the negative lead after a wrap ),spin into the coil housing, using the rod jig to push it down to the right height, bend the negative lead, put the boot connecter on, bend the positive lead, slide the positive post on, snip leads close to the housing and you should be good as new.
I slide a 3.5 bit into the coil when priming with juice, then spin it out to make sure the coil chimney is left open to the 3.5mm diameter.
Finish ohm reading is .57 ....
Best Vertical Coil I have ever built. Actually gets more air flow than the stock Aspire & Arctic coils.... All at the cost of 0.02Cents,, ohhh + the cotton...
One other NOTE: I love the sweet juices that gunk the coils up quickly. Keeping the flavor fresh, its needed to get the gunked coil & cotton changed out. Or vape the flavor of CRAP.....

Sounds Great.

Do you have a Link to the Wire you used?
 

Gahh

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That's how I learned to build... only I used those fasttech wires in Protank and nautilus heads...

Are you sure those legs are nichrome? Normally they are nickel or some other ultra low resistance wire..... using high resistance wire on the legs with lower resistance wire for the coil doesn't make sense.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk
I stand corrected. The description read: NR-R-NR, Ni200-SS-Ni200.
 

Gahh

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zoiDman

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