Reo clone query

[Ben85]

Hi all,

I have a Reo clone on the way which I intend of converting to LP.

I have read that some have put genuine Reo contacts etc in their clones. Have those that have done this noticed any real increase in performance? And if you have, what kit was it that you put in (new or old)?

 

[b.m.]

I put the genuine kit in mine,and didn't really notice any improvement in performance.The only thing i did notice was that the button got just a little firmer from the contact being a bit better and thicker,also a better spring than what came in it.I believe it was the set for the new that i used.
If you order the genuine set,i would order a few extra ground springs,as they are a hot spring,that way if a short happens,the spring collapses so the battery won't get damaged.I had a short in my atty,and those springs work great,but you want at least 1 spare,so if it does happen,you have an extra.

 

[93gc40]

Why would you expect performance to change? All the kit should do is allow for lower ohm or higher power builds. It the coil and battery that determine performance in a mech NOT the box you use to connect them.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

 

[Ben85]

Why would you expect performance to change? All the kit should do is allow for lower ohm or higher power builds. It the coil and battery that determine performance in a mech NOT the box you use to connect them.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

That's not exactly correct. You not heard of voltage drop? If the contacts in the clone are that shoddy (and by shoddy I mean adding resistance) then it's worth upgrading for the increased performance. But I won't if people have not found this to be the case.

 

[AU717]

Voltage loss, 93. Better contacts provide less resistance through them resulting in better current flow from the battery to your coil.
However, I personally would have bought a beat up used REO before even considering supporting someone who has stolen Rob's tedious design and workmanship.
ok I will shut up now.

 

[supertrunker]

The newer Reo contacts are better than anything that preceded them, but there are still some people that use even thicker firing pins and silver screws, rather than a spring at all.

Naturally, this is not a recommended or necessarily safe way of vaping, but it happens. Similarly a few years ago, a lot of us took to using fuses instead of springs precisely to try to eliminate some of the voltage drop.

Genuine Reos now have a newly designed adjustable 510 connector that is more efficient than the old ones, because the spring and 510 are 2 of the main bottlenecks in such a mech.

T

 

[JohnnyDill]

I custom fit a beryllium copper/silver leaf to my fake Reo, as well as bypassed the negative spring in favor of a solid brass negative contact. The difference in performance is astounding- all because of reducing the voltage drop to negligible.

 

[supertrunker]

It's difficult to recommend the elimination of all safety features without knowing what batteries, or coil building ability the OP has.

Some of us do it either to push the envelope or because we are experienced and confident in our batteries and safety precautions. If you pressed me on it, i'd say that the voltage drop using an auto fuse is an acceptable price to pay for the short-circuit protection and really, only seriously low-Ohm builds demand solid connections.

Only one of my Reos is unmodified, so you test your coils about 4 times before you fire them and with the atty fully assembled!

T

 

[93gc40]

That's not exactly correct. You not heard of voltage drop? If the contacts in the clone are that shoddy (and by shoddy I mean adding resistance) then it's worth upgrading for the increased performance. But I won't if people have not found this to be the case.

Yes I know about voltage drop. I also know the only way to even notice it at the power levels a Reo runs. You would need a very expensive volt ohm meter. voltafe drop is really only applicable to very high wattage and ultra low ohm builds at sub .2ohm. Which is well beyond the capacity of even an upgraded original Reo.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

 

[supertrunker]

Just for general information, i don't build below 0.3Ω on a Reo or anything else for that matter. It becomes a trade-off between mod maintenance and battery life.

At the risk of being obtuse let me state that the best 30A battery is only just capable of powering a 0.14Ω build, with no headroom, margin for error or safety buffer. As the battery ages its performance decreases.

93 is right and single battery devices imo cannot handle that thrashing for long.

T

 

[Layzee Vaper]

@Ben85

I would have said it would be worth picking up some spare springs and positive contacts from Rob. They are not that expensive. I've only dropped one spring in 18 months but having a spare did mean I could keep using my Reo.

In real terms I doubt there is a massive difference in performance unless you are running low sub ohm builds.

Much below 0.3 ohms and you are more likely to get some spring sag and much greater contact arcing on the positive contact. This means a much higher level of maintenance is required to keep the performance. This would be the case for the genuine Reo and the clone.

If you have not used a mech before I would stick with a hot spring setup and higher ohm builds until you are confident that you understand the additional risks and have enough safety checks in place.

 

[Ben85]

I have many mech's and have used them for a couple of years. Safety wise I am fine and know the limitations.

Thanks for the replies all.

 

[Layzee Vaper]

@Ben85

All good!

Did you pick up the clone in the UK? last time I checked FT was out of stock....

 

[Ben85]

@Ben85

All good!

Did you pick up the clone in the UK? last time I checked FT was out of stock....

Couldn't find one over here, so ordered from focalecig in the end.

I'm not expecting it anytime soon that's for sure!

 

[Ben85]

It's arrived already (took 8 days from focalecig) and I am looking forward to having a tinker with it.

Before I start grinding, anyone know where I can get a 14mm rda in the uk? Clone or cheap.

 

[Ben85]

I will post pics tomorrow, but my clone has had a few upgrades today including;

Genuine Reo adjustable pin (now has reverse threading)
Genuine Reo Spring contact (and surface underneath stripped and polished)
Genuine Reo heavy duty contact
Genuine Reo bottle and tube kit
Genuine Reo button and aluminium button cap
LP conversion all painted in Matt black.

Using a velocity mini on it and I am dead chuffed with it. All of the Reo goodness for a fraction of the price (sorry Reo fans!).

 

[puffon]

Genuine Reo adjustable pin (now has reverse threading)

What method did you use to remove the old 510 assembly?
I know stainless steel is tough to drill.

 

[Ben85]

What method did you use to remove the old 510 assembly?
I know stainless steel is tough to drill.

I didn't replace the whole 510, just the centre post. With the clone, the grub screw screws in as you put the atty on. With the genuine Reo one, the post is reverse threaded so this doesn't happen.

 

[muzichead]

I think what he was asking is how did you put a left hand threaded screw in a right hand threaded hole? You either had to replace the entire 510 to the left hand threaded or drilled and tapped the chinese setup to be reverse threaded... He was asking you how you did that?

 

[Layzee Vaper]

From what Ben85 said he has switched the entire centre pin including the adjustment screw from a genuine Reo 510 connector, leaving the negative outer part of the clones 510 in place.

@Ben85 did you do any voltage drop tests before and after the modifications? just wondering how much of a difference there is?