I think the RM2 is ideal. Just make sure you get the one for standard profile. If there's not one on the site, let Rob know and he'll fix you up.
REO Technical Issues/Shop Talk
- Thread starter Debadoo
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I have a standard REO that I use with an IGO-S. I wouldn't mind grinding it down to a low profile so I could use an O-16.
How far down should you take it? Level with the 510? Or should a little bit of cup be left? I don't have a LP Grand to compare.
How far down should you take it? Level with the 510? Or should a little bit of cup be left? I don't have a LP Grand to compare.
Putting a steel straight edge across mine shows there is a small gap, about .5mm.
Not flush, but I don't think it matters.
Not flush, but I don't think it matters.
hope one of those two options work well for you. A lot of folks have LP'd them themselves. You can probably get some tips on that doin a search for it in the archived forum.
i used a black marker pen and coloured the edge of the outside edge of the 510. Then i stuffed the Reo into a belt sander until i was getting close to it, but not sanding the black off.
When it was really close, i just filed the last bit by hand making sure to keep it straight. Unless you have an atty with an especially long 510, then this will work.
BTW, the Reo i did this on does not have the adjustable 510 pin, so a new one would be easier still.
T
When it was really close, i just filed the last bit by hand making sure to keep it straight. Unless you have an atty with an especially long 510, then this will work.
BTW, the Reo i did this on does not have the adjustable 510 pin, so a new one would be easier still.
T
Thanks to everyone for the info on sanding a Grand to LP. I believe that I will put this on my to-do list for the weekend.
I recently picked up my first squonker, the pico squeeze and I'm really enjoying the vape I get, which brings me to my questions. It got me thinking about a reo, as I'd like a purely mechanical squonker in my arsenal. The questions are 1) do flat top batteries work well as that's all I use anymore. 2) I've seen quite a few posts about getting upgraded contacts to help with voltage drop and preventing spring collapse with sub ohm vaping ( I like to build single coil at ~0.4). So, would a reo be something worth checking out for the way I vape?
Yep, yep, and yep.
Flattop batteries are no problem, and only older Reos need the contacts upgraded - new Reos come with.
I vape around 0.4-0.5, and despite having a bunch of squonkers, my first one - a Reo Grand LP - is still the mod that travels with me everywhere (literally - my Reo is "A-List" on Southwest air, lol).
Flattop batteries are no problem, and only older Reos need the contacts upgraded - new Reos come with.
I vape around 0.4-0.5, and despite having a bunch of squonkers, my first one - a Reo Grand LP - is still the mod that travels with me everywhere (literally - my Reo is "A-List" on Southwest air, lol).
Train covered it, but just let me say you will NOT regret getting a REO. It's all I've used for six years and although I have (ahem) "several"..... I still use the first one I ever got six years ago. You will be amazed.....
What train and JC said!! I'll just add this....... Reo grands are always on the site. But the P-67s are done for now in runs and are first come, first served til they run out. They are basically the same shape as the 2015 woodvils. Very nice shape for the hand. Work pretty much the same as the grand, are even better for flat top batts.
I use flat tops in my grands, but you will need to use something like deoxit gold on them. I take my batts off the charger, apply a little deoxit to both ends, then put em in my case. I vape about .4, .5 ohms. If you don't use the deoxit gold or NoOxID or something like that, you will get a bit of pitting on your batts from arc'ing. I use 1 or 2 drops on my fingers, and that is enough for the 4 batts that come off the charger at a time.
It's time for my last big stock up on REO parts.
I plan to get bottles, tubes, positive contacts, springs, spring screws, grubscews, and magnets.
Would there be any point in buying delrin screws? Surely that never wears out does it?
And the 510 and center post: I've heard that it's too difficult to replace these myself. So, I assume there would be no point in buying these, right?
And, now I forgot what the reducer tube is for.
I plan to get bottles, tubes, positive contacts, springs, spring screws, grubscews, and magnets.
Would there be any point in buying delrin screws? Surely that never wears out does it?
And the 510 and center post: I've heard that it's too difficult to replace these myself. So, I assume there would be no point in buying these, right?
And, now I forgot what the reducer tube is for.
"And, now I forgot what the reducer tube is for."
For high PG juice, to reduce the amount squonked.
I have only used mine to extend a mini length squonk tube to work, temporarily, in a grand.
Cheers
I
For high PG juice, to reduce the amount squonked.
I have only used mine to extend a mini length squonk tube to work, temporarily, in a grand.
Cheers
I
If you are referring to the screw that holds in the delrin cover, the screw can be stripped, but the biggest problem is the hole it screws into get stripped more easily. Most need to send the device into Rob to get sorted out if that happens... The new SS adjustable 510 has to be pressed into the device and you really need an arbor press to do the job properly. Lastly, the reducer tube is for vaping high PG based liquids in the summertime as liquid has a tendency to really thin out in the hot weather and sometimes even auto feed your atty... Hope this helps...
Yes, that does help . . . a lot.
What about the stainless center post? Is that something that might get damaged? If so, is it easy enough to replace?
I would think that the stainless center post could get damaged or lost. So, I'll buy one. But, what about the old REO 510? Is there anything that might need to be fixed/replaced on it?
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