REO Tips & Tricks...some basic troubleshooting ideas

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mlinky

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So for the 306, i'd need an adapter? If i've got the 801?
Thanks Evilgrin!

The 306 uses the same threading as the 510, so a 510 adapter would work. Besides the fact that the Cisco 2ohm 510 is an excellent general purpose atty, the reason I recommended a 510 over a 306 is because the LR 510 is much less finicky than the LR 306. The 306 must be kept wet, and there is less leeway between too dry and flooded. Since you are a relatively new vaper, and new to using a juice box, the 510 would be easier.
 

meeems

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The 306 uses the same threading as the 510, so a 510 adapter would work. Besides the fact that the Cisco 2ohm 510 is an excellent general purpose atty, the reason I recommended a 510 over a 306 is because the LR 510 is much less finicky than the LR 306. The 306 must be kept wet, and there is less leeway between too dry and flooded. Since you are a relatively new vaper, and new to using a juice box, the 510 would be easier.

Okay groovy', thats made it much easier for me, thanks again Mlinky!
 

Mudflap

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Okay thanks Mlinky :)

Can anyone recommend some good Attys for me?

I have used IKV 801 mini and tall attys, both the LR and HV versions. I found I prefer the tall 801 attys because I could literally flood them for lots of flavor and vapor and not get juice in my mouth. With the mini's, you have to be more careful.

When using adapters so you can used 510 threaded attys on your 801 native Woodvil, screw the adapter on to the atty first. You don't need it to be super tight. Just gently twist it on till it's snug. Then look at the bottom of the adapter. It should look like the bottom of a 510 atty. The center post should not protrude past the outside threads! It should be flush or a widdle bit recessed. You can usually adjust it with a little pressure, or sometimes with a small flat head screwdriver.

Edit: I just realized the above is for using 801 attys on 510 native mods. It doesn't apply to using 510 attys on 801 native mods.

:facepalm:


Adapters are for advanced users, to be honest. My suggestion: Use your native 801 Woodvil with 801 attys and get a 510 native Woodvil, Grand, or Mini for your 510 and 306 attys.

I hope that helped. I realize I'm a couple of days late.
 
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Angler

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I have used IKV 801 mini and tall attys, both the LR and HV versions. I found I prefer the tall 801 attys because I could literally flood them for lots of flavor and vapor and not get juice in my mouth. With the mini's, you have to be more careful.

When using adapters so you can used 510 threaded attys on your 801 native Woodvil, screw the adapter on to the atty first. You don't need it to be super tight. Just gently twist it on till it's snug. Then look at the bottom of the adapter. It should look like the bottom of a 510 atty. The center post should not protrude past the outside threads! It should be flush or a widdle bit recessed. You can usually adjust it with a little pressure, or sometimes with a small flat head screwdriver.

Edit: I just realized the above is for using 801 attys on 510 native mods. It doesn't apply to using 510 attys on 801 native mods.

:facepalm:


Adapters are for advanced users, to be honest. My suggestion: Use your native 801 Woodvil with 801 attys and get a 510 native Woodvil, Grand, or Mini for your 510 and 306 attys.

I hope that helped. I realize I'm a couple of days late.

Thanks Mudflap,
This did help but I wish I would have heeded your advice earlier. I was using a 510/801 adapter and burned up my Woodvil. I intend to buy a native 801 Woodvil in the near future because I really like the 801. I used that adapter a few times before one day my Woodvil just wouldn't hit. I found out too late that the gasket had melted and shorted out my mod. I'm not taking that chance again! Of course I mailed it to Rob and four days later I was vaping it again but it was a long four days.
 

Illustrated_Man

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Or, if you have some spare 6 ml dropper top bottles, you can cut the tops off the dropper, and just get rid of the o-ring. If you have multiple 6 ml bottles, you can do this to all of them, and then have some capped spares on hand.

I've been having trouble with the o-ring coming out of the cap due to expansion. Apparently not that uncommon of a problem vaping certain juices. Well, working 12 hour shifts at a very dirty place and playing with an o-ring just doesn't mix. I got frustrated the other night at work and just put it over the neck of the bottle below the threads and put the cap back on wondering if I could make it to the end of my shift without panicking. Low and behold, it worked without a hitch. No air getting in, no problems getting juice to the atty, no problems whatsoever!! This is now how I use it all the time. Hoping this helps others with the same problem. Frustration solved!:thumbs:
 

Illustrated_Man

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Plus, the option of a rapid reload that won't leak in your pocket is incredibly handy. I've got a a full 6 ml bottle in my desk at work along with a pre-loaded carto of Black Sundae, as well as the same thing ready to go in my backpack when I'm out and about.

Pharmboy's o-ring delete works like a charm. Nothing wrong with o-rings, but doofus's like me find a way to bunch them up in the cap or lose them altogether.
 

BengalBacker

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I have a problem with my wife's mini. I just pm'ed Rob, doesn't look like he's online now and I thought some of you might be able to help.

There's no resistance against the firing button, causing it to activate even if it's just sitting and not being used, and it doesn't push up on the button enough to be able to turn it to lock. I took out the screw and slid the assembly down just enough to see what it looked like. It appears that I just need to bend the contact up. Does that sound right?

Thanks in advance.
 

mlinky

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I have a problem with my wife's mini. I just pm'ed Rob, doesn't look like he's online now and I thought some of you might be able to help.

There's no resistance against the firing button, causing it to activate even if it's just sitting and not being used, and it doesn't push up on the button enough to be able to turn it to lock. I took out the screw and slid the assembly down just enough to see what it looked like. It appears that I just need to bend the contact up. Does that sound right?

Thanks in advance.

No, that doesn't sound right. It sounds like something is wrong. Have you metered the atty that she was using? It's possible that the atty shorted and melted something in the mod.
 

redeyedancer

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I have a problem with my wife's mini. I just pm'ed Rob, doesn't look like he's online now and I thought some of you might be able to help.

There's no resistance against the firing button, causing it to activate even if it's just sitting and not being used, and it doesn't push up on the button enough to be able to turn it to lock. I took out the screw and slid the assembly down just enough to see what it looked like. It appears that I just need to bend the contact up. Does that sound right?

Thanks in advance.
Pm in route
 
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