REO Woodvil & Derringer - Adjust to sit flush, help needed.

[rudy4653]

You could go to Home depot and get a box of assorted orings and put a thick one below the atty. Provides a cushion to protect the wood, stop any type of leak, AND fill the gap! I did this with my OG mini and milled RM2 to fill the gap. Cosmetically it looks fine as well. Just my

 

[freedogg]

One of the primary advantages of an adjustable 510 is being able to flush the atty with the mod.

If your atty sits that high with the adjuster screw all the way down then something is wrong. You shouldn't need fat o-rings with an "adjustable" 510.

 

[Chowderhead1972]

Could any of you guys with a new woodville and a set of calipers measure you maximum depth when adjusted all the way down? Mine came in at 4.09mm. The only atty I have ever seen that would go even close to flush on this would be my old kayfun 3.1 with a smoked bushing and even that would have a .06 gap. .1mm gap is fine, .60 is not. I agree with the op that this does look crappy. Sanding the Derringer down migh get it about halfway there but I would worry about removing enough material to make it right. Once it's sanded/ground to 4.09 that atty is married to that Reo. With the brass automatic(old) connection 4.09 would never fire. I would talk to Rob on Monday.

 

[Quigsworth]

One of the primary advantages of an adjustable 510 is being able to flush the atty with the mod.

If your atty sits that high with the adjuster screw all the way down then something is wrong. You shouldn't need fat o-rings with an "adjustable" 510.

That's not true. There is so much inconsistency in the device world as far as length of their 510 connectors Rob (or any other mod builder) couldn't possibly create a connector that is a one size fits all...and that is taking into consideration his adjustable 510...

Remember ERA's?...they had a ridiculously long 510

 

[Walter Ego]

Could any of you guys with a new woodville and a set of calipers measure you maximum depth when adjusted all the way down?.

My 510 measured 4.2, My first run Derringer sits .45mm high

 

[BlueSnake]

I don't have any Derringers. I have 3 new Woodvils. I have a Chalice III on one, an RM7 on one and a Cyclone on the other and they all sit flush.

 

[SteamStack]

Lol...I am all for levitating, but this seems kind of high to me. Does this look similar to yours?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My athentic now version 1.3 derringer looks just like that on my new woodvile as well.

I'll prob sand the 510 on the atty down to make her fit.

The new rm7 seems to fit fine on it though and the old cyclone afc.

 

[kkay59]

My Derringer is a tiny bit less high, than the one you showed the photo of. I could try an o ring too, but I have no idea what size. The one Russ said to use on the metal Reo, seemed a little big for the Woodvil.

 

[Kh888]

You could go to Home depot and get a box of assorted orings and put a thick one below the atty. Provides a cushion to protect the wood, stop any type of leak, AND fill the gap! I did this with my OG mini and milled RM2 to fill the gap. Cosmetically it looks fine as well. Just my

I have put an O ring under the atty and it does fill in the gap a bit. I also messaged Rob and will get his thoughts next week.

For the record, I am not pointing the finger at anyone. I am just hoping for a solution so that I can get the atty to sit a bit lower. I have a feeling it will be a bit of tweaking.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[unsure]

Use the allen wrench that came with your woodvil to adjust the 510. It is reversed, so right is loose and left is tighter.

I don't need to adjust it but reading this thread I thought I should look at least. I can't see anything in the 510 that would fit the allen wrench that was sent with it. lol

 

[kkay59]

Unsure, I had two wrenches sent to me, with my Woodvil. The smaller thinner one fits the 510 connection.

 

[jifjifjif]

Yep, and the fatter one is for loosening the Allen screw that holds the firing pin in place.

 

[turbocad6]

I noticed that mine was pretty high even adjusted all the way down. I modded an atty to sit flush on mine so I'm good but I was hoping others weren't like this too, my shortest atties just about make it all the way to flush, others sit up a bit. I figured a thread like this would pop up if others were like mine, here is that thread so yeah, I guess it wasn't just mine that came like that

for me personally it's no problem, I can deal with it, wonder how many others are like this

 

[SteamStack]

I took care of thst derringer issue. Always bugged me seeing the center pin hanging out so far past the threads on it.

Got it done with 80 grit coarse sandpaper.

Holding the atty straight as possable I push it back and forth about 10 times and then rotate it a quarter turn and repeat 10x rotate again.. wax on wax off... wax on.. wax off.. haha.

Finished the deal with 400 and then 1000 grit paper for a super smooth finish for good conductivity.

Anyways took awhile since it's stainless. Got it to where it just sticks past the threads.

Washed it off and blew it out a bunch of times.. dry burn (kept the build along with kgb) squanked and after a min or 2 back to life vaping away like a champ.

Could of sanded it a hair more but it's about 2 pieces of paper off the mod which is just damn fine with me.. low enough not to notice and wont scuff my sexy woodvile.

Happy.

Oh and all my mods have adjustable center posts so no prob using it on my other reos.

 

[turbocad6]

I just sunk my center post a little in the atty

got it flush enough with an oring

 

[freedogg]

T-Cad....how did you sink your center post?? Thanx

I just sunk my center post a little in the atty

got it flush enough with an oring

 

[unsure]

Unsure, I had two wrenches sent to me, with my Woodvil. The smaller thinner one fits the 510 connection.

I double checked but only got one. I'll have to PM to get the other missing...thanks.

 

[Quigsworth]

T-Cad....how did you sink your center post?? Thanx

I don't mean to speak for Turbo but sinking the post typically requires driving the post out and either use the drill/file method, or if you have a lathe...but unless the rda has a really wonky 510 it can limit what other mods it will work on.

I also see he chamfered the contact end which is a good idea to remove any chance of shorting

I also had to do that once because of this one off 510 I was experimenting on...keep in mind, and I think Turbo would agree, it's kind of an advanced mod and you should be pretty familiar with your gear before you consider doing it.

...just saying

 

[unsure]

dI love this new Woodvil but I got to say not a fan of the button . I know its jujst me but I find it too easy to shut it off during use. When Rob is back from his well deserved fishing vacation I'll ask about swapping out to the older button switch if possible. I never use the off/on button on previous Woodvils with no incidents so I wouldn't mind not having one on the new Woodvil.

 

[SteamStack]

dI love this new Woodvil but I got to say not a fan of the button . I know its jujst me but I find it too easy to shut it off during use. When Rob is back from his well deserved fishing vacation I'll ask about swapping out to the older button switch if possible. I never use the off/on button on previous Woodvils with no incidents so I wouldn't mind not having one on the new Woodvil.

I have that prob alot as well.. I would assume one could remove the pin in the button for the lock and the prob would be gone..

Love to do it myself but I'd like the lock for locking it on the go.

I would settle with a wider open track.. it must be real norrow as it is for the pin.. the slightest movement and it's locked.

I'd also like a little longer throw in the button as well. Should be able to just shorten the button end for that.

As it is there's really not much difference on or off.. it's hard to tell either way.