Reomizer microcoil advice

Discussion in 'Reos Mods' started by NoMoreBoge, Oct 9, 2013.

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  1. NoMoreBoge

    NoMoreBoge Full Member

    Hi all,

    I recently ordered myself a Reo Grand and Reomizer, they haven't been delivered as yet but I'm trying to get sorted out in advance.

    I'm planning on trying out a microcoil and cotton wick, I've never messed with microcoils before so could do with a little advice.
    I know there are a ton of good tutorial videos, showing how to build microcoils, but most of 'em seem to centre round building coils of relatively low resistance.

    I mainly vape my favourite juices at around 5.5 Watts so, on a mech, I'm thinking a coil around 2.8 Ohm would be about right.

    Can some kind soul give me some idea a microcoil spec. for around 2.8 Ohm?
    Kanthal gauge, mandrel diameter, number of wraps and all that stuff?

    Ta in advance.

    *I copied this over from New Members forum as I got no replies - hope this is OK.*
  2. UKPaul

    UKPaul Ultra Member Verified Member

    Supporting member
    2.8 ohms would be very high on a mech.

    I maybe wrong but think the highest you would want to go get a good vape is 1.8 to 2 ohms.

    Super x is the master in this ohm range and will probably give you some good coil guidance.
  3. txgtr

    txgtr Senior Member Verified Member

    This thread gives alot of examples of guages, wraps and ohms.

    The thicker the wire the lower the resistance. Lower gauge wire also easier to work with in my opinion. I've never built anything in the range your shooting for.

    The nice thing about the RM2 is that it's pretty easy to build on so you can experiment until you get it just right. Fortunately it really doesn't take that long. It is highly recommended that you have a meter of some sore to measure resistance. I actually use a vamo to build mine and test fire them.

    I'm sure some more knowledgeable folks will be along with more information shortly.
  4. UKPaul

    UKPaul Ultra Member Verified Member

    Supporting member
    BTW - good to see you have gone with a reo and rm2.
    What colour did you go with nomoreboge
  5. eHuman

    eHuman Ultra Member Verified Member

    I hate to say it but you may have to use 32g in order to hit that mark and keep the number of coils manageable. I don't use 32g for anything any more. Since the diameter of a micro is much smaller than a standard coil, imagine your normal number of wraps increasing.
  6. jcalis1394

    jcalis1394 Forum Supplier

    I'd say give this range a try, 1.5-2.0 ohms. You might be in for a pleasant surprise. Otherwise, since you vaped at 5.5 watts 2.6-2.8 ohms should give you that really low power you are aiming for. Keep in mind you won't be at a regulated 5.5 watts output so you are better off aiming at 2.6 ohms so you start fresh off the battery at somewhere around 7 watts and by the time you replace the battery you'd still be at roughly 5 watts. I still urge you to try that lower range though. I haven't really built anything past 1 ohms so I don't have experience there. I vape at around 24-28 watts.

    Experiment with 28g, 30g and 32g kanthal. If you can pull off a 2.8 ohm coil with at least 10 wraps that'd be ideal. Test with different amount of wraps until you find that sweet spot.
  7. NoMoreBoge

    NoMoreBoge Full Member

    Thanks chaps,

    I went for the Black/Silver Vein jobby but I'm hoping I can build a nice protective leather sleeve for it. Aint fathomed that yet but I will as soon as it arrives.

    I've built quite a few coils before but never a microcoil, never for cotton and never for use on a mech.
    I suppose VW devices make things much easier, just dial in the Wattage and let the device take care of all the faff.

    Yeah, it was the RM2's apparent 'open access' that led me to get one. Bad peepers and fingers like sausages need all the help they can get. :)
  8. Treebeard

    Treebeard Ultra Member Verified Member

    Supporting member
    What do you want out of your, hot, warm, big clouds, mild, hard hitting?
  9. NoMoreBoge

    NoMoreBoge Full Member

    I suppose I'd have to say my emphasis would be on good flavour, maybe middle-of-the-road on temperature and not in the least bothered about vapour production.
  10. super_X_drifter

    super_X_drifter OG Micro Coiler Verified Member

    Supporting member
    Hey bro, good answers above this reply. Glad you found us over here.

    For 30 ga Kanthal A1, I'd say start at 13 wraps around a 1/16" (1.5 - 1.6 mm) mandrel. See how that works out. Too cool = loose a wrap or two. Too hot = add a wrap or two.

    Check out this photo tutorial too :)
    RM2 / RBA 2.0 / Reomizer 2 Rebuild Tutorial
  11. UKPaul

    UKPaul Ultra Member Verified Member

    Supporting member
    Sounds like 1.8 ish would fit the bill.
  12. LAdams

    LAdams Full Member Verified Member

    Supporting member
    I made slight modification to my Reo that solved this problem for me. I scrapped the powder coat off at the top right side of the battery and put a kick 2 in it. Of course, you would have to use a 18490 battery, but that works fine for me.
  13. Filthy-Beast

    Filthy-Beast Vaping Master Verified Member

    Supporting member
    Just got my Reo and RM2. Using 32 gauge wire I built a 1.8 ohm coil for the RM2 and it hits smoother and lighter than my 2.5ohm attys on the eVic at 7 watts. I'm going to try to build 1 ohm coil tonight and give that a try. Two days ago I would thought you were crazy to go that low, that it would only burn your throat.
  14. MamaTried

    MamaTried Vaping Master Verified Member

    how are you holding the kick2 in place?
  15. LAdams

    LAdams Full Member Verified Member

    Supporting member
    I have the two negative pins touching the bare aluminum on the right and the top post slipped in the groove where the firing pin is located. I have been using this combo for about two weeks and I really like it.
  16. MamaTried

    MamaTried Vaping Master Verified Member

    thanks. maybe i'll try that. i failed miserably at being a pink eraser ninja...
  17. LAdams

    LAdams Full Member Verified Member

    Supporting member
    Yeah I did not want to try the pink eraser trick. In my case I think the trick is to make sure both negative post touch the side so the kick does not rotate and once the top post is the the groove where the firing pin is mine have not moved until I take them out.
  18. NoMoreBoge

    NoMoreBoge Full Member

    Thanks, pal, I'll give it a go using your spec. and see how things go from there.

    The thing I'm trying to get my head around is just how differently microcoils perform compared to normal coils. I suppose only experience will provide the proper answer to that one.

    Just need USPS and Royal Mail to get their ****s in gear now.
  19. Vapolith

    Vapolith Ultra Member Verified Member

    Great advice so far! How did you choose your name, NoMoreBoge? You done with cartos or did you have a Boge Revolution V2?
  20. NoMoreBoge

    NoMoreBoge Full Member

    Ah, well, you may be sorry you asked that one.

    I was thinking of going for user name :censored:OffBoge but then realised some may find it offensive.

    I guess that gives you a clue, eh? :D

    Boge quality control blows goat. I can live with a few duds in a batch, maybe 5% or thereabouts, but the last two bricks I purchased (reputable vendor) were absolutely bloody awful.

    The DOAs (bad thread, dodgy resistance, blocked side vents etc.) are bad enough but the sneaky buggers, the ones that check out OK but die right quick, are massively annoying.

    So there you have it; NoMoreBoge, BogeBeBuggered or whatever.

    Rant over. Well, for now. ;)
: revolution, vamo, evic
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