Replacing Power Button to make a Mod to my liking!

[Salt&PePPer]

Good day y'all, about a year ago a friend of mine gave me a VV mod, Tubular Knockoff, that could be adjusted from 3.2 volts to 4.8. Volts. Now the top eGo piece kept on coming out of the tube and it WAS NOT WORKING(!). Now under the Power Button the Tube Widened out a few Centimeters. For sure not the width of an 18xxx series battery but something closer to 14xxx. Also the way to adjust the Voltage are two Buttons - one Plus and one Minus (of course). Further attached to the PCB is a Two Digit LED screen to show what the Voltage was set at. I ran across this bit of kit yesterday and determined I should give my best at making my first mod with the working bit's.

Now what is the problem with the assembly is the fire/power-button does not work! The fire button is permanently pushed down. All three buttons are of the simpe half by one centimeters clicker type. Don't know why the fire button failed in the first place?

Now since the fire button was at the top and the voltage adjustment was at the bottom both PCB's are connected with four wires. They are attached at both end's to:
LED
SW
HOT and
GND

Now of course there are two other wires labeled + B - (on the larger PCB) and due to the lenth of the wires and where they are soldered on the bigger PCB you know where they go.

My question with this bit is how large of a Battery can I use? Although the wires are very thin, typical Chinese Cheap, if I switch out the battery wires to thicker 20 or so AWG wires can I use an 18650 or 18500 or 18350 batteries?

Finally for the Fire Button, since the bigger end of the PCB has an LED solder post that attached to the former broken end, do I need a setup that replicates all four soldering point's?

What I want to do is get some Power Button that I can push as many Amps through as possible. Like 5A+ if I can use an 18xxx series battery! But obviously I would need a Button where I can atleast re-attach the SW, Switch, button - HOT button and finally the GND, Ground button. Would the bigger PCB not being connected to the former LED Button flip out, not work or throw some type of error code?

If anyone can help me find a Power Button Sans LED that would be greatly appreaciated.

Also if anyone can help me answer if I could use a Large 18xxx Battery I would forever be indebted to you!

Again before any replies, thank you for your time and responses.

As always the name

NaCl & Piper nigrum

 

[BobC]

I would bet the chip itself has a cutoff off of 2 amps or less, goto a site like Fasttech and you'll find much more robust boards for a couple of bucks

 

[Salt&PePPer]

I was looking at Madvapes yesterday at their modding section and most of the Button's only had two connections.

So it's obvious if I want to get this working I will have to sacrafice two of the wires. LED Obviously but which other wire should get the cut? I'm thinking the GND Ground wire, what else could GND stand for. Besides aren't most "Simple" Tubular Mods Grounded to the bottom of the Tube?

So that would leave me with SW, Switch, and HOT, I would imagine the HOT wire would imply it supplies the other side of the AC/DC Circuit!

I've been looking at the chip's at Fasttech for a few weeks. Since I have this setup just laying around doing nothing and Costing me Nothing I figured I would give my first shot at modding using something that cost me nothing in the first place.

Also, BobC is more than likely correct with Two Amp assumption just based on the small a$$ed 32 awg wires. Which means I should probably keep the battery to around One Amp and no more. So I was thinking on getting an 18350 Battery, unless I can find a Vape Shop that carries smaller diameter batteries which could be an issue since 99% of Mod Vaping Applications use 18650 to 26650 batteries.

Thank you for the respose Bob.

 

[edyle]

if you've already been vaping for a year, maybe you should do like me and get a mech with a kick module.

 

[Salt&PePPer]

Thats too easy. Besides I have a Subox Nano in the mail.

I wish to make something with mine own hands and of mine own design. That's great that you have a mechmod and a kick. Nothing wrong with that.

 

[Salt&PePPer]

OK, I have many old eGo Mods where the batteries have ran their course. We throw all our batteries in fire proof bucket then dispose of them properly later.

Well I found about 8 old mods and 5 of them were Voltage Adjustable. I opened them up and found all of them had four wire attached to them. The other plan non variable volt eGo's did not. Also the Variable Volt fire button boards all had a 1R5 Passive Magnetic Inductor. What is funny is all of the fire button boards all fit inside an eGo connector. So I can switch out the boards no problem. It's funny how the Chinese Knockoff Industry self standardized itself without sending out or writing up an RFC.

So I have a perfect undamaged dead VV eGo that I plan to pop open and use the fire button board from it. All of these Mods are 3.2V-4.8V devices. I want to use a pipe cutter to cut open the tube but I don't have one so I will ask around. Forcing open the top like I did with other's can lead to slight damage to the bit's and bob's of the board and the assemblies that keep the Go button in it's place.

Another issue is the only Soldering Iron that I have is from my RC car racing days from the 80's. So the tip is way too big and cannot be replaced. Thus I might be going to Harbor Freight to see what they carry in the way of Soldering Irons made for working on electronic components.

 

[BobC]

I was looking at Madvapes yesterday at their modding section and most of the Button's only had two connections.

So it's obvious if I want to get this working I will have to sacrafice two of the wires. LED Obviously but which other wire should get the cut? I'm thinking the GND Ground wire, what else could GND stand for. Besides aren't most "Simple" Tubular Mods Grounded to the bottom of the Tube?

So that would leave me with SW, Switch, and HOT, I would imagine the HOT wire would imply it supplies the other side of the AC/DC Circuit!

I've been looking at the chip's at Fasttech for a few weeks. Since I have this setup just laying around doing nothing and Costing me Nothing I figured I would give my first shot at modding using something that cost me nothing in the first place.

Also, BobC is more than likely correct with Two Amp assumption just based on the small a$$ed 32 awg wires. Which means I should probably keep the battery to around One Amp and no more. So I was thinking on getting an 18350 Battery, unless I can find a Vape Shop that carries smaller diameter batteries which could be an issue since 99% of Mod Vaping Applications use 18650 to 26650 batteries.

Thank you for the respose Bob.

Hey bud,
First, the four wires are for LED AND ON/OFF, if you look on Fasttech, they have Ego style controllers, and in the discussions you will see wiring schematics
the battery has nothing to do with amperage except for max amp limits, the number of amps used is based on voltage and resistance, so you can use the 18650, just keep resistance high (LOOK UP OHMS LAW)

 

[Salt&PePPer]

OK I have it worked out and actually found the exact setup looking around at fasttech
$7.74 eGo-VV 0.65" LCD 3.0-6.0V Variable Voltage Control Module (eGo-VV Module, 3.0-6.0V) at m.FastTech.com

Also found out that the Chinese like to use Yellow wires for the Positive pin on 510 connector's... But that's when you pull the Mods apart.

Thanks for your help everyone.

 

[BobC]

look closer, it's discontinued at fasttech