is there a way to change the button? I've had my blue oni edition for about a week now. It was OKAY in the beginning, but now it rattles and it's hard to tell when it's firing or not because the button feels off and crunchy.
Sigelei 150w Box Mod
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Took my fluctuating resistance button rattling sigelei 150W apart last night. Wanted to check all the connections, make sure there weren't any damaged or loose wires, clean everything up, etc. Wasn't able to fix the fluctuating ohms, but I think I may have a work around, and I did the ghetto rig button fix, which did work rather well so far.
First, here is the "spring loaded 510" implementation, they weren't kidding about the spring part:
Its strange, to say the least, I'm not a fan.
If you notice in the lower left hand corner in the pic above, that piece of hot glue between the pcb and 510 wires, was loose. I am thinking at one point (before my button started rattling) that was glued behind the pcb, and the pcb mount bracket/rail. I wedged a piece of business card in there, and its no longer a maraca:
Ohm fluctuating work around. I noticed my doge v2 is stable on the 150W, it has a huge copper 510 protruding. Other atties with silver, gold, brass plated 510s seem to fluctuate all over the place, which blasts more voltage into them randomly, ie burning wicks / coils up at times.
I still think the board is fine, I think its something with that janky 510 implementation. Temp workaround will be to get a copper heatsink for the dang thing, and eventually probably just put a FDv4 in its place.
I wanted to sell this thing to justify my ipv4 pre-order, but I don't feel comfortable selling anybody this mod as is. I will probably just cancel my ipv4 pre-order and keep this janky thing.
--edit--
So maybe its not so much material, as 510 length. I didn't have a copper heatsink around, and only place reasonable to order one from was China. I started trying to think of ways to rig one up, then remembered about the 22mm to 25mm goofy adapter thing that came with my OG Subtank. Put it on the 150W, grabbed the last VCT Pro that was fluctuating resistance earlier today, and its been steady. Go figure, now I don't know what to think, this adapter has a silver plated 510 pin. Looks goofy, but its steady vaping now:
First, here is the "spring loaded 510" implementation, they weren't kidding about the spring part:
Its strange, to say the least, I'm not a fan.
If you notice in the lower left hand corner in the pic above, that piece of hot glue between the pcb and 510 wires, was loose. I am thinking at one point (before my button started rattling) that was glued behind the pcb, and the pcb mount bracket/rail. I wedged a piece of business card in there, and its no longer a maraca:
Ohm fluctuating work around. I noticed my doge v2 is stable on the 150W, it has a huge copper 510 protruding. Other atties with silver, gold, brass plated 510s seem to fluctuate all over the place, which blasts more voltage into them randomly, ie burning wicks / coils up at times.
I still think the board is fine, I think its something with that janky 510 implementation. Temp workaround will be to get a copper heatsink for the dang thing, and eventually probably just put a FDv4 in its place.
I wanted to sell this thing to justify my ipv4 pre-order, but I don't feel comfortable selling anybody this mod as is. I will probably just cancel my ipv4 pre-order and keep this janky thing.
--edit--
So maybe its not so much material, as 510 length. I didn't have a copper heatsink around, and only place reasonable to order one from was China. I started trying to think of ways to rig one up, then remembered about the 22mm to 25mm goofy adapter thing that came with my OG Subtank. Put it on the 150W, grabbed the last VCT Pro that was fluctuating resistance earlier today, and its been steady. Go figure, now I don't know what to think, this adapter has a silver plated 510 pin. Looks goofy, but its steady vaping now:
Last edited:
Well I don't know what to think now. I took that adapter off, put just the VCT pro on, and its been steady for me. I'm going to test some more attys, but maybe somehow its fixed now?
I hope it keeps working right for you, because when it works well, it's a great mod!
I was hesitant to take apart my Sig150 when I first got it. I was nervous to void my warrenty, but I heard asmodus warranty service isn't that great. I did take it apart and found the "adjustable 510" to be a little funky, it works, but it's different.
I would make sure your spring is attached securely to the battery sled, and when you put the sled back in make sure it goes in smoothly.
The one thing I also noticed was how the fire button had some play with the button on the board. What I did there was take a doubled over piece of electrical tape and put it between the board slot and the board itself. This pushed the board ever so slightly more toward the button to make the fire button press more smooth and consistent. I also noticed on my model that the button secure ring is glued into place making it near impossible to adjust the button housing.
I would make sure your spring is attached securely to the battery sled, and when you put the sled back in make sure it goes in smoothly.
The one thing I also noticed was how the fire button had some play with the button on the board. What I did there was take a doubled over piece of electrical tape and put it between the board slot and the board itself. This pushed the board ever so slightly more toward the button to make the fire button press more smooth and consistent. I also noticed on my model that the button secure ring is glued into place making it near impossible to adjust the button housing.
How did you attach the spring to the battery sled? Mine was just wedged in there, when I took the battery sled out it actually flug out at me. I just wedged it back in when I reassembled.
I believe The bottom of the spring attaches to a clip or something of the sort that it on the top portion of the battery sled. Or it might have been glued. I haven't taken it apart in a while, so I'll have to take a look when I get home later. I'll take pictures too. That might be causing your jumping resistance issue.
Gotcha, don't worry about taking it back apart if you don't want to. Mine has been stable since Saturday night for me, must have wedged itself into place after changing around atties and that goofy adapter thing I tried.
At this point whenever it starts acting up again, I'll just take it back apart, and try securing the spring to the battery sled. Thanks for the info.
You're welcome. I'm probably going to open it up when I have the chance later. I'm curious now because my spring is intact with the battery sled. I'm thinking it was glue, but I'm not entirely sure.
I'm not sure how some of these get a "QC pass" when they have issues like this. A clear plastic would also be nice to be able to see inside the box, it's all hidden when you have the battery door on anyway.
I'm not sure how some of these get a "QC pass" when they have issues like this. A clear plastic would also be nice to be able to see inside the box, it's all hidden when you have the battery door on anyway.
Here's what the spring looks like in my box chip V7.4
There is a little glue holding just one side of it. It looks like it's barely holding on to it. There is also a little "seat" where the spring goes. I'd imagine you can stick it there with some electrical tape, gaff tape, or hot glue.
What you do want to make sure of is that when it is all assembled you can push lightly down on the 510 pin itself and it will spring back up. Also make sure when you put it all back together that you're not pinching any wires, the bottom portion of the box needs more attention to the wires in my opinion.
There is a little glue holding just one side of it. It looks like it's barely holding on to it. There is also a little "seat" where the spring goes. I'd imagine you can stick it there with some electrical tape, gaff tape, or hot glue.
What you do want to make sure of is that when it is all assembled you can push lightly down on the 510 pin itself and it will spring back up. Also make sure when you put it all back together that you're not pinching any wires, the bottom portion of the box needs more attention to the wires in my opinion.
I have actually had my 150w red since beginning of February. My screen actually has been out for all but 3 weeks of getting the box. Works great still but no screen at all, wondering since some of you have taken apart, is this a fix I can do myself. Otherwise might be looking into a new box mod, would like to keep a 150w capacity though but open to suggestions.
I'm not exactly sure if you're device is still under warranty from asmodus. But i'd most certainly contact them about the screen issue.
I contacted them during my warranty and they told me they can not guarantee it will be covered? So I figured ef them and decided to just keep using it. it works fine I just wanted to know if it is fixable. :/ might send it in if I end up getting a IPV4
Good combo. 0.3 ohm coil around 80W is a nice warm, tasty vape (at least with my pralines n' cream )!
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