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Smoktech Airflow Controller - a short review

Discussion in 'Accessory Reviews' started by Giraut, Feb 21, 2014.

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  1. Giraut

    Giraut Moved On

    Dec 6, 2013
    I just got the 5 Smoktech Airflow Controller rings I had ordered in the mail. Here's my review of this product:


    - One hollow bottom ring with, diam. 20 mm, with a 510 jack at the bottom, a 510 socket at the top, and a larger threaded post (not sure about the size of the thread, I haven't measured it. All that matters is that it's not eGo, regrettably).

    - One top ring that screws onto the larger threaded post.

    - A floating, electrically insulated center pin.


    - Screw the thing onto your battery.

    - Screw the clearo onto the thing.

    - Screw/unscrew the top ring to adjust the airflow (in theory) or to bring it against the bottom of the clearo to stabilize it in the 510 socket (in practice).


    - None. As an airflow controller, it doesn't work.

    - The top ring's edge is smooth instead of being serrated, which makes adjusting it difficult. Fortunately, since adjusting it doesn't do anything, it doesn't really matter.

    - Fantastic product to preserve your battery's 510 socket. Screw it securely onto the battery once, and wear out its 510 socket instead of the battery's. To be honest, that's why I bought them: I swap clearos several times per day, and I'd rather replace a $2 ring than a $100 mod when the 510 threads go.

    Highly recommended as a 510 thread protector :)

    EDIT: I cut serrations around the top ring with a triangular needle file. That makes it a lot easier to turn. If you're handy with a file, it takes 10 minutes and it makes the thing look good too. Check it out:


    EDIT 2: when I say the thing doesn't work as an airflow controller, I should perhaps be more specific:

    - With clearos equipped with vent channels at the base, like the Innokin iClear 30, it plain doesn't work because air gets through the vents no matter what. At best, you feel a very slight restriction when the ring is all the way up. Not much to write home about.

    - With other clearos like the Vivi Nova, when the ring is all the way up, the air flow stops completely. Undo the ring 1/4 turn and the air goes through unimpeded. Anything in between is very hard to adjust, and in any case, the top ring is loose enough on the base that, if it's that close to the clearo, the mere act of sucking hard on the tip will draw it upwards and close the vent hole anyway.

    The top ring *is* useful, to prevent the clearo from rocking from side to side and damaging the 510 thread. But as an air flow controller, it doesn't cut the mustard.
    Ramsay Bolton likes this.
  2. classwife

    classwife Admin
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    Moved to Accessories Reviews from Requests for Opinions/Reviews :)
  3. doctadrea

    doctadrea Super Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Dec 11, 2013
    I just got one. I also made the little grooves to spin it easier. It works for airflow for me in the sense that I can have it open or closed, which seems to help me keep the wick saturated in my diver. Also the grooves match my vtr, it looks good, and makes my 35mm tank the perfect height. $4 well spent.
  4. Cazan

    Cazan Full Member

    Mar 16, 2010
    Pueblo, CO.
    Not a bad idear on being a bat saver! I change tanks so often that sometimes my threads have a dull red glow. Of course, my Ego C's should give up the ghost first. Bought a very similart device & had the same results as yourself OP, maybe we're the only 2 but....? Cazan
  5. Giraut

    Giraut Moved On

    Dec 6, 2013
    The threads are red because all those connectors (510, eGo, on batteries, on tanks) are made of brass, and threading/unthreading them strips the nickel plating in very short order. Brass connectors are very cheap and don't last long because copper is a soft metal.

    I don't understand why even expensive PV manufacturers don't use a less cheesy metal for their connectors - ideally stainless steel. On the up side, if a brass threading gets jammed (cross-threading, metal shaving in the threads...), they're easier to unjam, even at the cost of destroying the threads, because copper is a "greasy" metal and not "dry" like steel.

    At any rate, whenever I screw or unscrew a tank, I devote all my attention to the task and try to lift the tank very straight and very gently, to make the threads lasts as long as possible. But it only delays the inevitable.
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