So...What's the Skinny on Rebuildables?

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DeadbeatJeff

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Alright, so I think I'm finally ready to move up into the world of rebuildables and I'm thinking about getting this Kayfun because I've been getting really frustrated with my Protank/Aspire coils and tank systems.
feel ya; is where I was early last month

Now, I have a super basic knowledge about how these things work (basic meaning that I occasionally replace my wicks with cotton, I don't rebuild the coils or anything, just swap old wicks out until the coil gets super old and then I throw them out) but I was wondering what kind of resources everyone used to make this switch. Are there any really good resources (text posts, youtube videos, channels etc) I should check out to increase my knowledge on how to use these things before I dive in?

This forum is invaluable, also pbusardo and RIPTrippers on youtube. Kayfuns and dripping RDAs are easy.

Secret to Kayfun, IMO, is 30g kanthal microcoils between 1.0Ω and 2.0Ω, minimal wick, and enough distance from the air hole.

You'll NEVER go back to clearos once you get it, and getting it won't take long. Most RBAs/RDAs really only look proper on a mod though... you can get mini rebuildables for eGo, but have never tried em.
 
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edyle

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One question though, everyone: I'm assuming that once you invest in the actual parts and everything, using a rebuildable is eventually cheaper than using say, a protank or aspire system with replaceable coils? Am I right? I'm a little bit on the broke side and I don't wanna get sucked into using a system that I can't really afford.

Using a rebuildable is certainly cheaper than throwing away the protank coils.
And it's certainly easier than rebuilding the tiny protank coils.

With the rebuildable you will just tie your wires onto the screw down posts whereas to rebuild a protank coil you have to try to squeeze a small rubber grommet back into the protank head.

hcigar-kayfun31-atomizer-4-308x308.jpg
 

DeadbeatJeff

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One question though, everyone: I'm assuming that once you invest in the actual parts and everything, using a rebuildable is eventually cheaper than using say, a protank or aspire system with replaceable coils? Am I right? I'm a little bit on the broke side and I don't wanna get sucked into using a system that I can't really afford.
bag of organic cotton balls = $3
100ft of kanthal (so, like 200 Kayfun coils give or take) = $5
Kayfun/Russian = $20-$40

Nautilus = $25-$35
5 Naut coils = $10-$15

PT2 mini = $10-$20
5 PT coils = $7-$10

QED

And you don't need a torch or needles/drill bits that you don't already have (I use sewing needles and small brad nails). Just some nice tweezers, cotton balls, and the kanthal. I also sometimes use some locking, scissor-style tweezers when making twisted wires... but not usually for kayfun.
 
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thompsondd

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One question though, everyone: I'm assuming that once you invest in the actual parts and everything, using a rebuildable is eventually cheaper than using say, a protank or aspire system with replaceable coils? Am I right? I'm a little bit on the broke side and I don't wanna get sucked into using a system that I can't really afford.

For this reason, I am also considering building my own (which I have publicly stated I would never do - LOL!).

At $2-3 a coil, I am tired of my Protanks. Love the tanks. Hate changing coils every 2 weeks. Spent a $100 bucks on coils the other day. Knowing what I know now about RBAs and RDAs, I was thinking the whole time, $100 would EASILY cover a spool of Kanthal, cotton, ohm meter, tweezers, etc to get started and still have change left over. A lot left over.

My confusion, standing on the edge of the RBA/RDA cliff, is where to start as far as hardware. Ego-L/W, KayFun Lite, etc.

I prefer tanks with capacity (2.5ml or more) over drippers but not opposed to drippers for around the house. However, I am on the GO a lot (always running) so I prefer fill and go as my normal method of consumption over drip and hit and drip again.

As mentioned, I have a boat load of Kanger Protanks (Protank IIs, Aerotanks, Protank II minis) as well as a couple of Aspire Nautilus sitting on top of several APVs including Sigelei 20W and Seven 22 so I'm good as far as APVs, batteries, chargers, etc.

I just want to get away from sinking more money into replacing coils.
 
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DeadbeatJeff

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edyle

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For this reason, I am also considering building my own (which I have publicly stated I would never do - LOL!).

At $2-3 a coil, I am tired of my Protanks. Love the tanks. Hate changing coils every 2 weeks. Spent a $100 bucks on coils the other day. Knowing what I know now about RBAs and RDAs, I was thinking the whole time, $100 would EASILY cover a spool of Kanthal, cotton, ohm meter, tweezers, etc to get started and still have change left over. A lot left over.

My confusion, standing on the edge of the RBA/RDA cliff, is where to start as far as hardware. Ego-L/W, KayFun Lite, etc.

I prefer tanks with capacity (2.5ml or more) over drippers but not opposed to drippers for around the house. However, I am on the GO a lot (always running) so I prefer fill and go as my normal method of consumption over drip and hit and drip again.

As mentioned, I have a boat load of Kanger Protanks (Protank IIs, Aerotanks, Protank II minis) as well as a couple of Aspire Nautilus sitting on top of several APVs including Sigelei 20W and Seven 22 so I'm good as far as APVs, batteries, chargers, etc.

I just want to get away from sinking more money into replacing coils.

Do you start with a igo-l/w dripper or a kayfun rta
Do you start with a bicycle or a motorbike.

Get the motobike, but you might as well pick up a bike to get your feet wet.
Get the Kayfun, but you might as well pick up a dripper to practice on.

It's a lot easier to build, rebuild, change experiment on a dripper that opening up your tank all the time.
Putting the right amount of wick for example, is something you learn from experience; if you change the wick once a week or month, it could take months to realise how much to put, but if you're experimenting on a dripper you figure out a few things fast.

And if budget is really tight then get the dripper first.
 

DeadbeatJeff

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Do you start with a igo-l/w dripper or a kayfun rta
Do you start with a bicycle or a motorbike.

Get the motobike, but you might as well pick up a bike to get your feet wet.
Get the Kayfun, but you might as well pick up a dripper to practice on.

It's a lot easier to build, rebuild, change experiment on a dripper that opening up your tank all the time.
Putting the right amount of wick for example, is something you learn from experience; if you change the wick once a week or month, it could take months to realise how much to put, but if you're experimenting on a dripper you figure out a few things fast.

And if budget is really tight then get the dripper first.

lame analogy

I'd say a dripper is like a sport bike (like a Kawasaki Ninja), whereas the Kayfun if more like a BMW bike

dripper is for sub-ohm raging coils; kayfun is for puffin along
 

DeadbeatJeff

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Huge personal advise- iTaste VV ver.3 battery is the cheapest and invaluable tool for RBAs since it comes with a built-in ohm checker. You wouldn't really run sub-ohm coils in a Kayfun, so this lil battery will suffice you plenty and usb passthrough it has is a huge help as well.
OP already has a VAMO V5
 

Softrockstarr

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feel ya; is where I was early last month



This forum is invaluable, also pbusardo and RIPTrippers on youtube. Kayfuns and dripping RDAs are easy.

Secret to Kayfun, IMO, is 30g kanthal microcoils between 1.0Ω and 2.0Ω, minimal wick, and enough distance from the air hole.

You'll NEVER go back to clearos once you get it, and getting it won't take long. Most RBAs/RDAs really only look proper on a mod though... you can get mini rebuildables for eGo, but have never tried em.

Huge personal advise- iTaste VV ver.3 battery is the cheapest and invaluable tool for RBAs since it comes with a built-in ohm checker. You wouldn't really run sub-ohm coils in a Kayfun, so this lil battery will suffice you plenty and usb passthrough it has is a huge help as well.

I have a Vamo with a built in ohm checker, so I'm good on both of these fronts.

OP already has a VAMO V5

Edit: Oops, didn't see that you already clarified this lol.
 
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