RDA Spaced coils on a screw?

[pevinsghost]

Getting my first dripper in the mail this week, a velocity. Looking to do nickel coil, which I understand is better to do spaced. A tip I picked up is to do the coil on a machine screw to keep the coil spacing even. Any one done this and have tips on what size screw/number of wraps?

 

[EverPresentNoob]

I may have posted a few times about this... I always use a screw for my spaced nickle builds. I sadly dont know ecactly what size I use, but its around 3.5-3.75mm.



and my current build, 7 wraps of 28G hitting .07ohm.



Little hint, wrap it on the screw and leave it on while you mount the coil in the rda. I bend the legs into doglegs so that the coil will be where I want it with out having to bend and force it into position. if you bend it around it the coil will have a tendency to compress onto the screw and then you will have a beast of a time unscrewing the screw out of the coil. if the coil is tight, with out twisting the screw move it in a small circle to slightly open the coil up. not a lot, just a little. then hold the coil with your fingertips as you unscrew the form. once the form is removed the coil will open up a little, but not much.

 

[Vaslovik]

I've thought about doing that for coils on my gennies. I just haven't gotten around to finding the right size screw for it. The drill bit I have is just the right size and it's working fine for now, but I think I'll give this a try at some point. It looks like such a perfect coil on that screw.

 

[pevinsghost]

I may have posted a few times about this... I always use a screw for my spaced nickle builds.

Thanks! A lot of handy tips here.

 

[Woofer]

8x32 is what I like

 

[anavidfan]

I've thought about doing that for coils on my gennies. I just haven't gotten around to finding the right size screw for it. The drill bit I have is just the right size and it's working fine for now, but I think I'll give this a try at some point. It looks like such a perfect coil on that screw.

I read about this too, but have a hard time figuring what size screw would equal my usual 2.4mm coils and the 2.75mm I use... I especially would want the 2.75 as those are the ones I do spaced. I do spaced coils on my drippers because of the NET.

 

[sonicbomb]

I found the screw method way too fiddly. I make a contact coil, then while it is still on the mandrel, I stretch it out. Then I gently compress it until its evenly spaced and of the correct length.

 

[Tom Forde]

My father just got into temp control when I got him an IPV4 for his birthday. I taught him to wrap a spaced nickel cool by wrapping up a regular piece of 24g kanthal & then wrapping the 28g nickel parallel to it fitting it inside the grooves of the 24g. Then I just pulled off the kanthal from where I started wrapping it and done: instant spaced 10 wrap 28g nickel coil on about a 3mm bit.

 

[RandyF]

6-32 for 2.5mm ID and 8-32 for 3mm ID. The 6-32 fits nicely in one of the old style coil jigs, giving a nice bit of leverage for tight coils.

 

[pevinsghost]

Thanks for the info, tried my first ever build today on my new velocity. Single, spaced coil, cross deck, 14.5 wraps of 30ga nickel, on a 8-32 screw. Was 0.41 ohm. Not the ugliest first build ever, but after four hits, a hot leg appeared. Thought those ugly legs & loose end coil would be a problem, and they were. Oh well, live and learn, then try, try again.

 

[Tom Forde]

That looks really clean for a first nickel build. Good job

 

[RandyF]

Thanks for the info, tried my first ever build today on my new velocity. Single, spaced coil, cross deck, 14.5 wraps of 30ga nickel, on a 8-32 screw. Was 0.41 ohm. Not the ugliest first build ever, but after four hits, a hot leg appeared. Thought those ugly legs & loose end coil would be a problem, and they were. Oh well, live and learn, then try, try again. View attachment 479975

Yea, long legs and nickel don't play well together. That's why 2 post designed RDA's, like the Velocity, work so well. No bending the legs to fit the large coil. I ordered the Hobo V3 by Tobeco, will be here Friday. I'm interested to see the difference since the Hobo is designed with a single coil option.

 

[pevinsghost]

Since this is mostly practice for when my stainless steel arrives, I think I'll just switch to parallel macro coils for now, and worry about building high resistance when the right material is in hand.

 

[Tom Forde]

Since this is mostly practice for when my stainless steel arrives, I think I'll just switch to parallel macro coils for now, and worry about building high resistance when the right material is in hand.

Stainless steel is a much sturdier wire than Ni200. Nickel is super easy to bend and easier to mess up.

Yea, long legs and nickel don't play well together. That's why 2 post designed RDA's, like the Velocity, work so well. No bending the legs to fit the large coil. I ordered the Hobo V3 by Tobeco, will be here Friday. I'm interested to see the difference since the Hobo is designed with a single coil option.

Don't compare the hobo v3 clone to the authentic 3.1. I have the 3.1 authentic and it is an amazing little atty. Are you able to rotate the positive post on the tobecco v3 clone? Also the deck on the 3.1 is redesigned so that the afc locks into place and won't move on you.