Running 2.2 Ohm heads (actually 2.0-2.4) @ 3.7V (5.5 - 6.5 W) does fine for most of my flavors. However, 2 of my juices consistently get scorched at those settings.I was skeptical at first too, but until you try subohm it won't make sense. You don't really need to get wrapped up in the math to enjoy it (UNLESS you roll your own.) Many vapers get hung up on the numbers and forget to just find the sweet spot and vape.
Yes, you can get dry hits on the protank coils, but that sounds like your wicking may not be up to your vaping needs. Different strokes....
Given those numbers, which are the ranges I happen to fall into, running 0.5 Ohms at 30V seems extremely excessive.GotVapes database said:Standard coil resistance is 2.2-2.4ohms, that is the most common used.
Variable voltage and variable wattage are the big thing now so that people
can customize their vaping experience.
These are the suggested max levels by one of the top manufacturers:
1.7-1.9ohms 3.1v-3.4v(max)
2.1-2.3ohms 3.5v-3.8v(max)
2.4-2.6ohms 3.9v-4.2v(max)
2.6-3.0ohms 4.3v-4.7v(max)
These are the maximum voltages per Kanger and Vision that those resistances
should be run at. In some cases depending on the juice you use you will run
significantly lower.
When you run in variable wattage mode that is completely different. In power
mode the onboard electronics measure the resistance of the coil and by using
a specific formula will set the voltage according to the wattage you want to
vape at. Most people vape between 5.5-7.0 watts.
Sweet flavors?However, 2 of my juices consistently get scorched at those settings.
Sub-ohm started was started in order to get more heat and vapor out of fixed voltage mechanical mods. It carried over from there.I appreciate your input, but I'm not trying to fix my taste issue. I'm trying to understand the sub-ohm concept.
Those recommendations are long outdated, and based on older technology. Better wicking and airflow techniques have changed things immensely.If nomial vaping settingas are 2.2 to 2.4 Ohms, 3.4 to 3.7 Volts, and 5.5 to 7 Watts, and if the ranges provided by Kanger and Vision are valid, what's the point of pushing 30 Watts through a 1.0 Ohm or less atty?