Subtank RBA builds? show em!

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Haktuspit

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  • Feb 13, 2013
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    MacTechVpr

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    My first coil ever, I'm scared to go past this point. Is it normal for the 521 Tab to take that long to heat up? I have an LG HG2 in there. What do you guys think? How bad is it? I want a lower ohm coil but I just wanted to practice.

    Dropbox - File Jul 21, 8 03 11 PM.mov

    Dropbox - File Jul 21, 8 04 10 PM.jpeg

    Thanks for the video hak. Don't know what your batt voltage was. Lot of wire can take some time. Recommend you go use Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators to configure your coils. Use the Ohm's law tab to then determine the amp load of your wind. The mod range tab let's you find the optimal/low/high output of your variable device by model.

    Generally try to find the sweet spot of the mod, the likely power top end of the atty (limited by airflow) then adjust for the median between the two.

    Back to the video. Revealing, like most. Can tell you wound with a coiler (or a tight hand wind). You're in close contact. So you're running exceedingly hot at center (look up a kanthal wire surface temp color chart some time). It's why so many presume that microcoils don't work (and coilers too for that matter). If you refer to my posts earlier on using strain and oxidation you can harness that energy to provide uniform distribution. Tensioned microcoils don't fire inside out.

    Good luck! :)
     
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    Haktuspit

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    Was a freshly charged battery so I was rather confused. Other things adding to confusion: I may have a dud of an HG2 hiding in my ranks, my RX200 I double checked it on for how long it took to fire barely fired my Kanger SSOC TC coil this morning.

    I'm probably not going to play around with the 26, 28 kanthal that I ordered much more. Didn't use that coil. I'm looking for more of a sub-ohm build and from what I've gathered so far that means lower gauge wire. I was using Steam Engine when I ordered wire but had not yet noticed the wattage portion affecting heat flux... doh.

    That was from a Coil Master V3, with the 3.0 mm coiler. Is that considered a mirco coil? Before I order more of the wrong wire what's the best way for a noob to get some 0.5 ohm builds similar to the stock kanger coils I know I like?

    Ordered a spool of Ni200 32 gauge as well. I thought this would be easy to build some sub ohm temp control coils but from the looks of things on Steam Engine it's either I can't hit a resistance that has a low ohm coil without getting a ton of wraps or a high heat flux.

    Thanks for the help so far, I've done a lot of reading and watched a lot of videos on coil builds but it's not the easiest knowledge to apply, even for an engineer.
     

    MacTechVpr

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    Was a freshly charged battery so I was rather confused. Other things adding to confusion: I may have a dud of an HG2 hiding in my ranks, my RX200 I double checked it on for how long it took to fire barely fired my Kanger SSOC TC coil this morning.

    I'm probably not going to play around with the 26, 28 kanthal that I ordered much more. Didn't use that coil. I'm looking for more of a sub-ohm build and from what I've gathered so far that means lower gauge wire. I was using Steam Engine when I ordered wire but had not yet noticed the wattage portion affecting heat flux... doh.

    That was from a Coil Master V3, with the 3.0 mm coiler. Is that considered a mirco coil? Before I order more of the wrong wire what's the best way for a noob to get some 0.5 ohm builds similar to the stock kanger coils I know I like?

    Ordered a spool of Ni200 32 gauge as well. I thought this would be easy to build some sub ohm temp control coils but from the looks of things on Steam Engine it's either I can't hit a resistance that has a low ohm coil without getting a ton of wraps or a high heat flux.

    Thanks for the help so far, I've done a lot of reading and watched a lot of videos on coil builds but it's not the easiest knowledge to apply, even for an engineer.

    First congrats on quitting and your appreciation of my remarks.

    I ran some no's on your approx build and you likely weren't pushin 10amps (assumed 28/10x). Can't speak for the tester. Haven't used one. Two ways to shape metal as you know…forming (what a coiler does) and strain (elongation). The later I've found with much research does enable sufficiently proximate contact (I refer to non-scientifically as adhesion) to enable very rapid development of preliminary alumina with low voltage pulsing (annealing). It's adequate enough to deter turn-to-turn electron jump as power is applied (or increased). This suggests a balancing of the internal strain common to extruded wire. Not all of the ridgidity imparted by strain in winding is lost in the process. Another benefit which helps maintain the wind geometry under the rigors of repetitive thermal expansion. As I describe it this means the coil persists in wanting to remain a coil…in the nominal dimension it was originally wound.

    Once achieved two things characterise the wire flow efficiency. First, it stops for the most part firing inside out as spaced and conventional contact winds will. From your video you see quite a bit of the centralized heat effect (overheating) resulting from contact and extremely high temps at center. This is what causes contact coils to essentially fail under high power causing the whining about them burning wicks. But that's to be expected from what is essentially a short. The second indicator of success one you have uniform end to end firing is a distinct change in temp of output vapor along with density (less diffusion). This confirms a reduction in thermal loss to air and a higher rate of phase transition. Have done this experiment thousands of times and with hundreds of volunteers, shop customers, workshop participants, interns comp builders and B&M owners.

    If I can lend a hand gettin' you going with tensioned give me bump here or on Tensioned Micro Coils. The next step. Glad to help if I can. As I said earlier, I use Kanthal to build performance baselines. Think no matter what alternatives we choose its good to have to keep us honest. For many of the reasons I mention in posts I prefer parallels for the relatively lower aspect (wire mass) relative to surface area.

    Now here comes the good part. Folks I know have learned how to do this consistently become extremely effective embassadors for vaping. And frankly, that's why I'm here.

    Best of luck to you hak. :)
     
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