If you look at the replacement heads on MV, it's shows the insides of the different heads. Seems it can probably be rebuilt.
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T-Dux 2.0 Review anyone?
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Glad someone was able to post up the info, once again, and 3 out of the last 5 packages I've gotten USPS sent my package to the wrong city. Post Office is getting really bad in Duluth, sent it to a city 75 miles from me. My package will be AT LEAST an extra day or two. 
Finally dug out to the mail box and got mine out of the mail. Very sleek looking, excellent vapor production, though it is on the small side for me to be interested in using these exclusively. Overall I'm happy with it so far, I'm sure I'll give it a makeover before long, but for right now I'm leaving it as is.
My dogs are not fans of this one, occasionally it will give a high pitch whistle on inhale, drives them bonkers.
My dogs are not fans of this one, occasionally it will give a high pitch whistle on inhale, drives them bonkers.
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I just got mine in as well .... I tried wiggling the small knurled top off, no, unscrewing it, no. So, I'll puff on mine for now, and when the head becomes nasty .. I'll go to town and figure it out. Reverse engineering I guess is what that's called. If I can't rebuild the heads, it will go in my "to pif" pile. See my new video .... just my take and first vape off it : T-DUX 2.0 by SMOK compared to ARO & ARO2 - MADVAPES - YouTube
Well the post Office delivered mine pretty sleek lines, threads are a bit courser than I would like, but it works fine. I loaded it up with a bit of Boba's to see how it wicks 100% VG, does pretty well. Flavor is a bit muted, but slightly better than my Aspire/Davide BDC, definitely wicks 100 VG better. Vapor production is OK, draw is a bit tighter then an old Protank, I like the draw, about right for me.
The coil is 1.9 ohms Pyrex is a big+ in my book, this will be my toss in the pocket on the run setup.
Looks to be good to go for rebuild, uses same pin rubber grommet type approach as the Kanger type heads, I won't actually pull it apart until it needs it. I'll be ordering a couple more along with a few of both type heads. I'll add another post when I rebuild it the first time. Here are a few pictures.
The coil is 1.9 ohms Pyrex is a big+ in my book, this will be my toss in the pocket on the run setup.
Looks to be good to go for rebuild, uses same pin rubber grommet type approach as the Kanger type heads, I won't actually pull it apart until it needs it. I'll be ordering a couple more along with a few of both type heads. I'll add another post when I rebuild it the first time. Here are a few pictures.
Thanks for the pics and clarifying that the legs are still secured using rubber/silicon grommet.
If only someone were to come up with a bdc clearo that does not use silicon/rubber to secure the legs. Any ideas anyone?
If only someone were to come up with a bdc clearo that does not use silicon/rubber to secure the legs. Any ideas anyone?
Even though they're sold out of everything now, here is a photo of an atomizer head disassembled.
In time I'll try to see what tools would work to take it apart evenly and gently and let you know, unless someone beats me to it
lol
My T-DUX sat for a few hours, half full ... went to puff on it ... gurgle gurgle gurgle. On the PIF pile it goes, so, now I'm sticking to the ARO2 and putting miles on that to test it well.
In time I'll try to see what tools would work to take it apart evenly and gently and let you know, unless someone beats me to it
lol
My T-DUX sat for a few hours, half full ... went to puff on it ... gurgle gurgle gurgle. On the PIF pile it goes, so, now I'm sticking to the ARO2 and putting miles on that to test it well.
Thin juice? I've had it filled with a tank of Boba's for about 15 hours, maybe 1 hour of that being actual use, the tank sat at varying levels of fill with no issues, on its side, and upright. Next will be a tank of 50/50, thinnest I use. It is almost dry now, only gurgle experienced was 3 draws, right after the juice hit the coil for the first time.
It isn't a Kayfun, but I'm liking this for tossing on an Ego type battery and going pretty well. I would assume it is a press fit similar to the Aspire BDC heads, I use a small pliers with a thin wrap of leather to get that off undamaged.
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So I've done a rebuild on these. I didn't even consider doing a dual coil. Just a simple coil with 1mm hollow Ekowool, 32ga Kanthal. 6 wraps with a small paper clip inserted into the Ekowool. Came out at 2.1Ω.
The trick is pulling the bottom out of the sleeve WITHOUT wiggling it. You have to pull it straight out or you will crack the ceramic cup. The rebuild is very simple - just like a Kanger head. Two holes in the ceramic cup to put the wire through. One inside the insulator, one outside, pop in the pos post and that's it. You leave 1/2" or so of wick on each side and then wrap that around the outside of the head and put the sleeve on. On my second tank with it and no leaking so far.
The trick is pulling the bottom out of the sleeve WITHOUT wiggling it. You have to pull it straight out or you will crack the ceramic cup. The rebuild is very simple - just like a Kanger head. Two holes in the ceramic cup to put the wire through. One inside the insulator, one outside, pop in the pos post and that's it. You leave 1/2" or so of wick on each side and then wrap that around the outside of the head and put the sleeve on. On my second tank with it and no leaking so far.
Based on this picture, the head I have is on the left. You can see the ceramic cup sitting in the base - don't pull this out. It's glued in. Just the top sleeve comes off (sitting to the left of the head/cup in the pic.)
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Did a dry burn on the stock head, Boba's is dirty, about 3ml through it, and flavor was getting off due to gunk, dry burned, rinsed out, dried, and go. Looks like it is just Silica wick so I would expect to get maybe 5 dry burns out of it before rebuild time. I'll post back when that time comes with some pictures. So far I like it, waiting to order a hand full of heads when they become available. This thing IMO is much better then the Evods, just hoping rebuild goes well If its possible going to try a vertical micro coil cotton build.
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holy crap the whistling noise is annoying as hell if you take a slightly harder draw, so i've been drawing a little lighter which is still fine. but the single coil 1.8 produces tons of vapor even at 6 watts on my mvp2. flavor is muuuuch better than my mini protank 2. feel free to ask me any questions, but i must warn you, i'm a bit of a noob. i can't rebuild pt atomizers for the life of me, and i've tried many many times.
edit: whistling noise goes away if you block one of the two air holes. dunno if that helps anyone but thought i'd mention it
edit: whistling noise goes away if you block one of the two air holes. dunno if that helps anyone but thought i'd mention it
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No, I like mine 50/50, ive had no luck with high PG being my favorite.
Even the MadVapes guy that does their youtube vids told me on youtube that his gurgled too after sitting, but was "no big deal". hmmph
ccwaters, I simply use the prebuilt micro coils from chinatech. couple bucks for 50 coils w/wick. I did a video on trying to rebuild, but there was so much wick under the cap, I couldn't get it back together even with the original wick. hmm
i just found that the t-dux has no issues wicking 20/80 pg/vg from mbv. moo juice is awesome on this! should hold me over while i'm waiting for my hcigar nemesis and youde agi from 101vape
Just did a quick rebuild on the original head, just used straight resistance wire, took me about 5 minutes, was pretty easy, and will be easier second time. For the first build 5 wraps of 32gauge around a 2mm silica wick.
Left about .5-.75 inches of silica on each side, put my fingers on each side of the silica, gave it a little turn until all wick was trapped, slipped the metal cup on, maybe all the Kanger heads helped, but I found it super easy, and it went 1,2,3....
no pics, I'll see if I can get some on the next build, may experiment with some cotton when I get some spare heads.
Seems the community is taking your youtube vids as gospel, guy got down-right mad at me in a vapetv channel when I told him rebuild was simple.
Should add, it vapes much better then factory build, no floods or issues so far, using some 50/50 right now, better taste and wicking so far. think they had a bit to much silica in it with original build, and was choking juice off a bit.
Left about .5-.75 inches of silica on each side, put my fingers on each side of the silica, gave it a little turn until all wick was trapped, slipped the metal cup on, maybe all the Kanger heads helped, but I found it super easy, and it went 1,2,3....
no pics, I'll see if I can get some on the next build, may experiment with some cotton when I get some spare heads.
Seems the community is taking your youtube vids as gospel, guy got down-right mad at me in a vapetv channel when I told him rebuild was simple.
Should add, it vapes much better then factory build, no floods or issues so far, using some 50/50 right now, better taste and wicking so far. think they had a bit to much silica in it with original build, and was choking juice off a bit.
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Any chance you could provide a link to the chinatech source for coils? Thanks.
Yaaaa, sure : https://www.fasttech.com/p/1464502
Thank you very much. I'm such a noob I was trying to find a chinatech on the web instead of Fasttech.
Can these wicks be used for most rebuilds, like Protank, T3S, etc?
And when you rebuilt the T-Dux did you use this single coil, and tried but couldn't fit a double in there?
Hope you don't mind the questions. Thanks.
Thank you very much. I'm such a noob I was trying to find a chinatech on the web instead of Fasttech.
Can these wicks be used for most rebuilds, like Protank, T3S, etc?
And when you rebuilt the T-Dux did you use this single coil, and tried but couldn't fit a double in there?
Hope you don't mind the questions. Thanks.
hehe, sorry, some are very touchy about the actual FT name, so usually say chinatech *shrug*
Yes, these are meant for bottom coil type atomizers as you mention, as well as the original ARO, and ARO2. The T-Dux, I have not tried to 'rebuild' yet, saw one comment that said in order to change those out, you have to drop the coil out of the bottom to avoid fracturing the ceramic shroud that surrounds the coil.
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