TC for me, and not going back.
- Thread starter Bonskibon
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I heard the Pico was good with SS TC so since that's all I had that does SS it was easy to set it and forget it. I make the same build every time so the settings don't change.
I just think about TC as "how fast do I want the coil to get to a comfortable vape?" The "power" drives the coil, but the "TC" limits how hot the coil gets. From there, it's still "fiddling" with the settings to get what you like. I do appreciate that when my wick gets dried out, I don't get the NAS-TAY dry hit.
I like SS because it does taste a little cleaner (to me) than kanthal. I have some Ni200 coils that I use for my STM and Nauti/Triton Minis. They give a CONSISTENT vape....
I like SS because it does taste a little cleaner (to me) than kanthal. I have some Ni200 coils that I use for my STM and Nauti/Triton Minis. They give a CONSISTENT vape....
I'm with ya on the lazy vaper deal! With 3 (soon 4) of the same mod I can run identical builds in all my active tanks. I ain't putzin around with my 1 oddball mod to find a thpethial build that will work on it. It does fine charging batteries for the working mods!
i still only use pre made coils but if the tank i'm using has TC coils, that's all I use. Triton mini nickel coils in any tank that takes naut bvc coils, 20 watts 420F, zero dry hits after doing this the last couple months, great throat hit. Or my egrip/cuboid mini/cubis pro with the 0.6 or 1.0 SS MTL coils.. zero dry hits so far, consistent vape. This week I'm using my spirals 0.6 and it's reminded me how i hate dry or too hot hits.. and i'm just at 19 watts when the coil is rated 18-35! Also the new nautilus 0.7 coil sucks. I get dry hit after dry hit even when coil saturated.. they say 18-25 watts, i have at 14 and not a good vape.. give me the 1.8 at 12.5W any day.. basically, TC for me too, whether tootling or clouding. Best way to vape 
One point about heat flux is to keep in mind with TC, power is applied variably by the board. While you say figure out the heat flux you like at say the maximum power level/wattage you select in TC, understand the power will not be the same throughout the draw. The heat flux you/SE calculates at a given wattage is at best a rough guide in your coil build with TC use.
I find boards that don't let you control wattage in temp mode to be basically useless.. you have to set the temp much lower and take much shorter hits..that's my experience anyway.. Setting anywhere up to 230 celsius or 440 faranheit let's you take long nice draws.. if I set it at that temp though, with nickel coils, on a board like a kanger 80 watt that doesn't have wattage control, it will be awful and hot.. by having a maximum wattage setting, you can control the temp even more, I find, as well as the length of the draw..
(I have tested multiple boards without watt/joules control in TC mode, and they all fail for me personally, unless I am using some ridiculous high wattage SS coil, then it's ok.. one thing to note, all of these boards tend to try and apply the full power capabilities till the temp is reached, then they start to regulate the wattage.. by setting a lower maximum in boards that allow it, you can stop this from happening).
when i can set the wattage, i do get the initial hit then of course the board starts to control it going lower and lower).. it's very interesting to watch all TC boards fluctuate the wattage during the draw.. i sometimes fire it for a few seconds without inhaling so i can observe the screen and see what it's doing.
My settings if anyone is curious, for tootling..
430 F across the board
SS joyetech coils, 20 watts
Nickel mini triton coil, 20 watts
vaporshark nickel Nautilus 0.3 coil, 14.3 - 17.0 watts depending on the juice
(I have tested multiple boards without watt/joules control in TC mode, and they all fail for me personally, unless I am using some ridiculous high wattage SS coil, then it's ok.. one thing to note, all of these boards tend to try and apply the full power capabilities till the temp is reached, then they start to regulate the wattage.. by setting a lower maximum in boards that allow it, you can stop this from happening).
when i can set the wattage, i do get the initial hit then of course the board starts to control it going lower and lower).. it's very interesting to watch all TC boards fluctuate the wattage during the draw.. i sometimes fire it for a few seconds without inhaling so i can observe the screen and see what it's doing.
My settings if anyone is curious, for tootling..
430 F across the board
SS joyetech coils, 20 watts
Nickel mini triton coil, 20 watts
vaporshark nickel Nautilus 0.3 coil, 14.3 - 17.0 watts depending on the juice
My mod lets me change the wattage in TC mode. There are some mods that don't let you do that. I wouldn't like one of those. I guess for the most part TC was introduced for the sub-ohm crowd who already vape high wattages as it is. I'm a tootle puffer and need to control the wattage. Toot toot..
I still consider myself a Tootle Puffer! I don't wanna be a Mod Whomper and the Cloud Chasers would laff at my .65 ohm and 25w.My mod lets me change the wattage in TC mode. There are some mods that don't let you do that. I wouldn't like one of those. I guess for the most part TC was introduced for the sub-ohm crowd who already vape high wattages as it is. I'm a tootle puffer and need to control the wattage. Toot toot..
Please don't tell me I cain't be a Tootle Puffer no mo! 
Good conversation. There are a few of us around. I've been vaping TC for about 2 years MTL and stainless at least 18 months. I too am a "lazy" vaper, meaning I want a quality vape but not work too hard on it. I use just one atomizers and one build and generally keep only one juiced up. For most of my time with stainless in TC I've been building 1.5 ohm coils with 28 guage wire. A couple months back I put Arctic Fox on my Pico (recommended). It shows me max watts and max temp after each puff. That was telling me I might get along with a lower powered vape. Steam engine tells me it takes 30 watts to get 200 heat flux on my 28 guage builds but the same build with 30 guage wire gets to 200 with only 16 watts. So I started using 30 guage wire, 16 watts and 400F. Then the problem was the lower watts heated the coil slower. That was addressed with pre heat, .4 seconds at 150% power (24 watts) then it holds 16 watts or 400F. There is less vapor. I got used to that. I'm using less liquid and less power but still enjoying my vape.
You do all that with the AF firmware? Been thinking about updating my Pico, but to scared I'll mess something up. I've bricked a few phones by trying to root them (was able to unbrick them) so a little nervous with flashing software.
nothing to be worried about, if you have issues or dont like it just re-flash the stock firmware. I personally didn't like the AF stock presets and didnt feel like messing with settings on my picos or rx mods and went back to stock firmware. I got a pico with a QF rda right now built at 0.32ohm vaping at 44w/440f, and 3 rx mods with 0.1 - 0.15 ohm builds vaping at 120 - 140w and 450 - 470f. And 3 g2 mods you probably don't care about the settings of.You do all that with the AF firmware? Been thinking about updating my Pico, but to scared I'll mess something up. I've bricked a few phones by trying to root them (was able to unbrick them) so a little nervous with flashing software.
I'm not having any issues now with my settings and will probably just leave well enough alone. If it ain't broke....
Between all my mods, the only one that gave me trouble was my DNA, I had to fight for days to adjust the curve for SS until I finally got it working close to my other mods, and now, it's fairly ok.
But between my multiple Eleaf (Pico, TC100W, TC60W(for NI as it doesn't have SS)), Wismec (Predator) and Joytech (VTC), setting the metal/wattage/TC the same have all given me fairly the same thing. Even my (SMOK) XCube2, while no wattage settings, just the TC and type (low/normal/hard) has been quite fine.
I just build my SS (28 or 26 gauge) for 0.2 to 0.8 ohm (single or dual), set my mods for 45W, and start at around 360F and go up as needed (due to the varying ohm that I've built) and it's been completely smooth and easy, and absolutely consistent across all my mods and all my tanks.
If you have more than one mod keep one in stock form so you have something to vape. The firnware updates or reverses seemlessly and fast. What takes some time is learning how the options interact. I did the basic setup with the PC toolbox then learned the button presses so the tool box is rarely needed. I created a basic confiiguration that applies to the several different mods I might use so there is only one AF configuration to manage.You do all that with the AF firmware? Been thinking about updating my Pico, but to scared I'll mess something up. I've bricked a few phones by trying to root them (was able to unbrick them) so a little nervous with flashing software.
I use an rda all the time so the vapor quality varies as the coil becomes less saturated. It's rarely necessary to pull the barrel off to check the liquid. For me, when the protection limit is hitting on just a few watts I know the coil is getting dry.
My reference atomizer is a Nautilus mini. I run that at the same 16 watts with the same 150% pre heat as above but with no TC because the wire is kanthal. It's a nice vape but I still prefer the rda with TC partly because of possible government interference with supply. Set up one compatible mod with Arctic Fox and play with it. Once you learn how to configure the features you will find something that's useful.
I personally simply don't feel any need to update or switch to more advanced firmware. If it ain't broke thing, ya know? But then I felt the same way about TC forever yet here I am.
Soooo one excuse have to avoid messin with AF is that I only have 1 Windoze device. Its a 7" inch tablet running 8.1. It does have a full size hosting USB port. So just for future reference do you think it would work for the upgrade? Everything else I have is android.
I don't have a PC currently. I did the up date on the computer I use a work. I got a brother of mine vaping 2 years ago. He still uses a Nautilus mini and Istick 20 at 11 watts. I envy that.
I want a vape that's immune to government interference so I rely on a simple atomizer, low cost TC mods that are inexpensive to stockpile and I mix and rebuild. In light of all that the AF firmware is a useful addition.
If you've got Win and a usb port, you should be fine. You won't brick the tablet (fingers and toes crossed).
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